I'm not denying that. I just wanted people to realize that his quote wasn't a labor only quote. Plus dealer costs for parts is going to be higher than a place like ECS lol.

 

Let me restate this for some clearity in my understanding of what I thought I was reading.
1st Spookymini describes how his failed vacuum pump seized and ruined his engine.
After reading this 1yesfan reaserched and found it prudent that he replace his vacuum pump at 74k as a preventive repair to keep a failed vacuum pump from toasting his engine.
In response to 1yesfan's decision to replace his vacuum pump at 74K you informed him that you are replacing your vacuum pump at 65K as preventive maintenance to alleviate the potential of a failed vacuum pump 'bricking" your engine.
From this I drew a conclusion that "we" ( other Mini Cooper owners out there who might have the same concerns over the effect of a failed vacuum pump ) should also consider some form of "preventive" action.
The "we" was my inference and not at all intended to suggest you were making that statement and for that I apologise.
But to be clear, what I thought I was reading was that a failed vacuum pump could cost a mini cooper Owner their engine. Is this a correct assesment?

 

Good news, my timing chain which was replaced 6 months ago isn't the issue apparently. I have a oil separator valve leak on my valve cover which led me to be 2.5 quarts low and the CEL was a thermostat that was stuck open. Only $1700 at the stealership :-) They suggested I replace all my hoses as a precautionary thing for $1600 :-) Very nice of them to be so concerned about me.

I think I'll trade her in and get a '14 Kia Soul before I go broke

 

Spoke to my SA about the Vac pump. He says he has rarely seen one go out much less at 75k. Once again I suggested a prevent maint move on my part and he said I should not worry about it. I said I have researched this part and when it croaks it takes the motor with it in some cases. He still insisted that is a rare event and did not ask "so when do you want to bring it in".

 

Did a short enternet search and looks like vacuum pump failures in the Prince engines is not all that uncommon.
Heres a typical example.
http://www.sunshineminis.org/forums/...p?f=19&t=24741

Given all the different problems one might encounter with one of these engines I believe the best preventive action an R56 Prince engine Mini Cooper owner can take would be sure you are covered under a warranty as owning one out of warranty appears to be a fairly risky proposition.

 

Hell at my stage to get a warranty would be 2k I think my SA told me, I may be wrong. At this point, the car has always been at a dealer for ALL work, oil changes, etc. All recall stuff done, I just had engine coolant/system flushed, plan to get the trans flushed, water pump replaced and this vac pump done. After that most stuff is done that was broke or could break. Wife drives it so it is not driven hard at all.

 

Just got off the phone with my SA at Orlando (FL) MINI.

I have open recalls on the turbo heat shield and the timing chain.

Orlando MINI will replace the entire timing chain assembly if it isn't updated to the most current model. This is regardless of whether or not stretching of the timing chain has occurred.

So anyone in the area give them a call and set up a service appointment.

 

I talked to my dealer and mine isn't covered...i did my oil pan gasket a month or so back and found parts to the guide plastic in the bottom of the pan ...anybody have luck getting coverage when they don fall in?

My clatters like a ****...and it's started to clatter mid shift too...

 

Why isn't yours covered? Even if they replaced it under warranty they still installed defective parts right back in, of course this wouldn't be known until three revised generations of tensioners! The tensioner part number changed three times because some were still having multiple failures, so a third revision was made with a new manufacturer.

 

Look at my post with receipt pics on post #259. The receipt shows they found the guide broken and pieces in the oil pan. Braman did see pieces broken from the guide and had no choice but to drop the oil pan. I did bring the piece to the dealer a couple years ago but they didn't do anything at that time. They apologized and fixed the timing chain this time. I did buy the clubman at the same dealer so I established a good relationship over the past few <years. Good luck.

 

Hello all,

I took my 2010 Mini Cooper S to the local dealer a few months back when I had the timing chain/tensioner issue. I paid out of pocket (close to $3000) for the parts and labor. About 3 weeks later I received a letter in the mail informing me of the recall. I called Mini and asked if they would refund me the cost I had just paid for the repair that was now under recall. They told me that due to a class action lawsuit, they were unable to provide me a refund.

Has anyone else dealt with this and received a refund?

thanks,

Mark

 

The dealer is the one refunding the out of pocket expenses, I was instructed by Mini USA "to have the dealer start the paperwork", their words and that doesn't seem like they're not leaving it open to interpretation! It's my thought that if MINI USA started refunding people, the pending lawsuits could use it as ammunition. Just my belief.

 

do you guys check your oil when the engine is cold or warm? my r56 s manual says after 10 miles of driving check it after 5 mins, so the engine is pretty hot. the oil level on mine is half a quart lower when cold.

 

I'm sorry but that's impossible, if you check it when it's cold it's only going to expand 1-2 eighths of an inch on the dipstick, I like to check how much oil is actually in the oil pan. I'm guessing you have the OEM dipstick which tells me you're not thinking with your dipstick Jimmy. I couldn't resist!

I would highly recommend the Craven dipstick for accurate oil readings, my spring type OEM dipstick is horrendous! Now start thinking with your dipstick Jimmy!

 

I think theres a couple different oem ones. I have the one without the red part on it. heres mine:

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNj...TWtuA/$_57.JPG

i checked the dipstick when it was warm and there were 8 spring bars wet(i dont know what to call them, lol) from the bottom mark. when I checked cold only 1 or 2 wet.

also I'm not 100% sure, but last time when the oil was at the top mark. it seemed to not vary much between warm and cold checkings. do you know why this is?

 

I check mine cold. I just pull the dipstick, note the level and return it to the engine. I don't wipe the dipstick off, just look at it.

Dave

 

It shouldn't vary too much, now you know why I bought the Craven dipstick. If I were you I'd buy the Craven dipstick, there's no easier way to check your oil!

 

which method should I use to check it with the dipstick I have now? preferably one that allows when the engine is warm.

 

If you don't know how to check your oil with the stock dipstick you should have someone else do it for you. you can check it warm or cold.

I can't answer that because I don't trust the OEM dipstick, as explained in my last post the OEM dipstick pulls oil upwards because of the two metal beads on the bottom of the OEM dipstick. A horrendous design for a dipstick, that's why MINI changed the design, customers complained and engines seized up because of that POS dipstick!

It's extremely difficult for me to understand how a manufacturer could get the dipstick design wrong, hell the new Mini's don't even have a dipstick. No matter how many times they try to get it right they fail, they give up on dipstick all together all because it proves to challenging for them.

 

Is there an actual eBay listing that goes with that picture?

 

Does it really matter? Are you in the market for the most horribly designed dipstick?

 

To the guy that paid $3k to have the timing chain fixed 'a few months ago,' had mine done for free in January. You should have been covered, time to find a new dealership. Everyone else, call MINI USA first. They were great for me.
FYI, I have no problems with the stock dipstick on my 09. I check it cold or after the car has sat for 20 min. It's very clear where the level is. The only time I look twice is when the oil is brand new.

 

There is nothing wrong with the stock dipstick. I have never had a problem with reading mine.

It starts with a few new owners who have trouble because they are inexperienced and mass hysteria sets in with otherwise sane people jumping on the "bad dipstick" bandwagon.

Step back, take a deep breath, forget all the nonsense about "bad design" and try your stock dipstick, it really does give you a good accurate reading!

Dave

 

I also have no trouble reading the dipstick. I usually check it in the morning when cold or about 30 minutes after shutting it off.

 

On the OEM dipstick the end is plastic and has an upper and lower "bulb". The problem is that when fully inserted the lower bulb rests in the oil and when removed to check the oil draws oil up into the tube. This oil that has been drawn up into the tube coats the dipstick when it is re-inserted to check the oil level resulting in false oil readings (shows oil on the dipstick where none may really exist in the crankcase). The solution is to simply remove the bottom bulb from the dipstick.