The only way for it to seize is a lack of oil right?

 

No it's not supposed to have oil in it, so when oil starts leaking into the vacuum pump because the seals fail, that's when the pump fails.

 

My '07 CooperS is back in the dealer for timing chain assembly replacement, one month short of the 2 year warranty on the last replacement. This is all after the entire engine replacement that was needed in '09, before I purchased the car. So this will be the third timing chain assembly. Wondering what the chances are of getting reimbursed for the work I had done 2 years ago, I am in Canada.
While I like my MINI. I have no faith in this vehicle. Definitely won't buy another with such poor engineering.
I think I my next car will be a 1970's something. Cars now seem to be built disposable.

 

Well darn. I'll keep the 2 years in mind when deciding what to do with this car

 

Well, well, well. Had the whole kit and caboodle replaced on my wife's '09 Clubman S in October '13 (timing chain, guides, tensioner, etc) under "good will" and today my wife has a CEL and told me the car sounds like it did before we brought it in for the tensioner. Loud at cold start and then noise gets quieter upon warm-up.


Wife probably put 3000-4000 miles on in last 7 months. Will the 24 month parts warranty cover another timing chain replacement? I'm just trying to get the car to go another year before I trade it in. 32,000 miles on the car and had to replace HPFP and timing chain already. Also needed the walnut shell treatment. Car is a huge maintenance nightmare compared to my cheap Dodge vehicles

 

what are the symptoms of it needing the walnut shell cleaning?

 

I just had the KIT AND KABOODLE timing chain replaced yesterday on my 09 club S. The tensioners were fixed a year and a half ago but the chain kept stretching. Now I have to wonder how long THIS repair lasts? This car is starting to worry me. I am seeing to many folks saying they are on 2nd and 3rd repairs of the timing chain crap.

 

They said it needed it when it was brought in for HPFP. Didn't really notice any performance difference

 

You said that the tensioners were fixed a year and a half ago but the chain kept stretching, my interpretation is that they only replaced the tensioner and not the chain. If the chain wasn't stretch to its limits and one replaced the tensioner it would take a some time (3000-4000 miles) for it to stretch past its limits and cause the rattle once again. It sounds like whoever did the job the first time may have only replaced the tensioner, you might want to dig a little.

I have heard so many owners that only got the tensioners replaced because the timing chain wasn't at its limit yet, but a year later the rattle returns, this is what I believe happened to you. I always ask for my old parts when something is replaced to be 100% sure! This way you don't have to wonder if infact they performed the job using all new parts.

 

When you replaced the entire engine did you buy used or new? and cost? I have 2 bent valves due to "slack" on my chain and the tensioner has been replaced.

 

The first fix was just a tensioner and some torq bolts? But nothing else was fixed and at that time and at that time the chain was with in Mini Spec for stretch.
This time I am told they did it ALL. I have not spoke to my SA about it but the other folks that checked me out said it all was replaced.
So million buck question, with this all fixed with the most current parts will this damn thing stay together for 50k miles or more?????

 

The tensioner I got installed is a different one (revision) than the one you received, Mini changed manufactures right after you had your tensioner replaced. There's supposed to be a much stronger spring in the current version, once your chain starts stretching because of a bad tensioner it's too late because the inevitable will happen and always does.

I have only heard of only a few have the death rattle return, I stress that the majority have had no further problems after replacing the timing chain assembly. Remember all brands of cars have timing chain failures/problems even without a defect, my brother in law had his Toyota truck timing chain go bad after 250,000 miles.

 

Well a truck or car that goes 250k on one chain, I have not issue with that, ha ha. I have a 93 Silverado with 275k on everything ORIG. I just hate these
issues. We had a 97 Jag XK8 that had bad tensioners in them. Plastic guides would crack and fall apart. Had that repair done and it was not cheap and there never was a recall on it much less a GOOD WILL fix. I will hand it to MINI they seem to treat most folks with issues well.

 

Brother owns a 2001 Silverado with 179,000 miles and he has never done a brake job, he'll never have to. Engine has lost a some power though, been pulling his boat since he had it. Never had one single problem with it!

 

I am reading stuff on the vac pump. At 74k perhaps I should do a preventive repair on that so it does not go out and toast my motor.

 

I plan on doing mine before 65k miles, this damn vacuum pump will brick your engine!

 

I am not fixing myself. How much will Mini charge me for the pump repair?

 

Call your dealer and find out.

 

765.19 installed. Prob have it done later this summer.

 

This price is for the replacement of a vacuum pump? If it is that's crazy, if you can change your spark plugs than you can replace your vacuum pump with simple tools.

 

Am I understanding this right, in order to keep it from costing you an entire engine replacement we now have to replace our vacuum pumps before they go out at around 65k miles +- as "preventative maintenance?
That coupled with the timing chain failure potential costing you an engine should they fail are pretty serious considerations.
Any other "little" things we all should know about our "Prince" engines that could cause catastrophic failures if not taken care of in advance as "preventive maintenance" (other than the obvious keeping oil in it)?

 

No, you don't.

 

No you aren't understanding me at all, I said I plan on replacing my vacuum pump, there is no we. That's my opinion and the action I will take at or around 65k. To answer your second question, to keep the carbon from forming in the combustion chambers use BG 44K every other month. It's this carbon that heats up your valves causing them to break, it also causes pre-ignition/detonation which will eventually harm your engine.

 

That price also includes the price for the pump, which is expensive at around $4-500.

 

You could almost buy 2 vacuum pumps with the labor their charging, I found the vacuum pump for my MCS at ESC Tuning, cost $418. It only takes 2 bolts to mount, that's just too easy.