First Post!!!! Bought my '07 MCS about a month ago and I couldn't be happier with it aside from a few quirks I've had to work out but I knew about the stigma of this car going in (gotta pay to play in my opinion).

First off I've searched high and low here on NAM, other forums, google, bing, yahoo, you name it and have found no definitive help to figuring this out.

Onto my problem.....starting car, bulb outage warning symbol on in the tach display and turn signals are blinking twice as fast in both directions. Obviously my first thought is that a bulb is out. Walked around the car and everything is operational (I checked every bulb....corner lights, reverse lights, signals, reverse, foglamps, license lights, etc).

I accessed the secret menu in the tach display and read the messages:
CC ID 122 (indicator, front left, failure)
CC ID 125 (indicator, rear right, failure)
CC ID 133 (rear light, left, failure)

I replaced all 3 of these bulbs even though they were lighting up properly. I made sure the contacts were good, clean, and tight. Also made sure the new bulbs were the correct wattage. I also checked the sockets and connections of the remaining bulbs in each of the above housings and all were good.

Despite my efforts, the bulb outage message still comes on upon startup and my turn signals, though operational, still blink twice as fast in both directions.

Is there a learning period for the car to determine for itself that the bulbs are good? Do I have to drive it for a period of time? Computer have to be reset? I'm most familiar with Volkswagen lighting systems and the VW bulb light would go out immediately after replacing the bulb and cycling the key.

 

Although it will be a pain it might be worth going thru and checking all the turn signal bulbs and make sure they are all the right wattage.

 

Finished checking all bulbs (not just turn signals) and made sure the wattage was correct. Replaced those that I couldn't tell the wattage or if they looked even a little smoked. All wiring looks good at the sockets. Still no change........signals blink twice as fast, bulb outage warning at startup, and same fault codes stored in OBC secret menu.

Not sure where to go from there. My only thought is to ride it out and maybe the failure will worsen making finding it easier. I read a few times about the footwell module being a possible cause since all exterior bulbs wire directly to it and it is responsible for triggering the bulb outage warning. Is there a way I could check the footwell module? I don't know where it is mounted (I'm assuming in one of the footwells but I don't know which or how to access?)

Any other thoughts or past experience help from the NAM veterans out there would be appreciated.

 

I looked in my service manual to see if there was a flasher relay for the turn signals, but there was no mention of one in the manual. If there is a flasher unit, I would try replacing it. I wish my manual was more helpful. Does anyone know what causes the turn signals to flash in a MINI?

 

I don't believe there is a relay for the hazards or the turn signals. Everything I've found says that all of the lamp assemblies wire directly to the footwell module with no fuses or relays.

Strangely I have discovered that if I have the hazard lights already on (which flash at normal speed) and then flick the turn signal switch to either side then the turn signals will flash at normal speed. However, you have to have the hazards already flashing to get the signals to flash normally.

I tried what I know to be called a "capacitive discharge" (disconnecting battery and touch the battery cables together) for 30 minutes. No change in bulb warning light or signal speed. I did succeed in resetting my clock and radio presets though.

 

You may have to replace the lighting control module. I think most manufacturers did away with flasher relays in the mid to late '90s. Sucks really, because a flasher relay is about $6, and LCMs are usually $300 to $400. Isn't innovation great?!

Maybe you can find a used one somewhere.

 

Footwell modules are ordered VIN-matched then have to be coded at the dealer is my understanding ($400 part with who knows how much labor at dealer for install and coding )

I really am hoping to not go there as far as expense and I want to check/address all possible (and cheaper) causes before shelling out that kind of money.

PLEASE TELL ME THERE ARE MORE POSSIBLE OPTIONS! PLEASE OH PLEASE!

 

Yeah... Wasn't sure if the '07+ models still had the body control module or a dedicated LCM.

You can always hope for a bad ground somewhere. Google for a BCM connector pin list, and see if any of the grounds going to the BCM are bad. A bad ground could fool the module into thinking there is an open circuit.

 

Any chance of someone already knowing where the module ground(s) are located specifically (where in engine compartment or elsewhere on chassis)? Search engines have come up with nil so far.

I have a Bentley manual at home that I need to refer to but I'm pretty sure it only has wiring diagrams and not physical ground locations.

I ordered new taillamp sockets and socket holders from Sewell Mini but it will be until next week before they arrive (backorder) so I'd like to check as much wiring and the grounds in the meantime.

 

First, find the pin-out list for the connectors on the BCM. Then check the ground pins for good ground. No reason to be pulling apart the entire car looking for all the chassis ground points if it does not turn out that there is a ground issue at the module.

 

I checked my Bentley manual and it lays out the grounds pretty clearly, both the pin-outs at the module and the chassis locations. I will be checking the module pins in the next few days and if all is ok then its onward to to chassis grounds for module and the lamps themselves (behind interior trim panels, dang).

Is there any risk in disconnecting the footwell module? Chance of losing its coding? Disconnect battery first or does it matter?

 

If you have good grounds at the pins, you probably have good grounds at the chassis. If it was an intermittent problem you might look at the chassis ground points for a loose connection. Just trying to save you some unnecessary fiddling.

Not certain about your last question, but typically VIN specific data is flashed into a non-volatile memory. It doesn't lose coding when you remove the battery, so it should be okay to disconnect the module. You might lose some of the owner-set preferences, however you just reset those when you are done.

Best practice is to always disconnect the battery first. This is to prevent accidentally shorting any circuits during the maintenance procedure. That is why almost all service instructions start with, "Step 1: Disconnect negative battery terminal."

 

Definitely not an intermittent problem. Signals are fast all the time and bulb warning light comes on at every startup. It's the fact that the bulbs are lighting up that has me confused so I feel the need to check even the most illogical of things. I thinking more and more that it is a software problem or a failed module.

 

I have a dodge ram 3500 truck as well as my mini. In the dodge they call it a TIPM. It controls everything electric. It's about $500 plus coding. When you install it, I'm told it will work but the coding is for all the different options your vehicle has. So it gets coded to your Vin. I have no drivers side blinker, brake light, or front headlight. Sounds like the mini has the same kind of controller. Good Luck

 

So we had a really hard rain that lasted a couple days and I found out the top seal of the windshield was leaking water inside the cabin. It wasn't very visible because the water was running along the headliner and down the A-pillars.......leading right down to the footwell module.

I checked the connectors for corrosion and luckily there was none but I guess a new FRM is in my future to get this remedied

 

Hi! I have the same problem, please tell me there is a solution :(

 

Same problem.

 

I am having the same issue. I have a 2007 Mini Cooper. It came up yesterday. The signals flash twice as fast and I have checked all the lights. Has anyone found a solution yet to this problem.

 

Assuming you are using incandecent bulbs:

1) Disable warm and cold turn signal bulbs check (NCS) and check
2) Replace FRM and check

 

So I go out this morning to take the car out for a wash and everything is working as it should without doing anything. Any ideas???

 

CHECK BOTH DOOR SENSORS .

called a local mechanic .Had same issue. Keyfab would not lock doors from outside .He said that it was the door detection system or whatever. Haven't had the chance to get it replaced but definitely a possibility.