I get significant steering wheel shake at freeway speeds when trying to accelerate. I also feel a similar shake (only occasionaly) when slowing down at freeway speeds.

Was going to start with motor mounts. Does this one look bad?

I never saw the black oil all over, but I'm wondering if it was cleaned up before I bought the car.

 

When I put my pulley on a week ago after jacking the engine off the mounts the center of the mount (where the bolt is was almost completly broken off. The mount from the oustide looked brand new. I replaced all 3 mounts while I had the engine jacked up already. It's really not that hard to do. There is a bolt in the bottom of that mount that is a number 11 reverse torx bolt. Just make sure you get the right ones. They started differnt mounts after 12/03? build date. check your other mounts they are probably starting to crack also

 

Have you ever cleaned under the bonnet? Yes, replace the mounts.

 

If there is alot of movement its bad. Some people feel it driving or a clunk sometimes.

Engine Mount R50 R53 chassis up to 12/2003 production. Part# 22116760448


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/22116760448/




There is a bolt on the bottom and a nut on the top. #4 in the diagram.

 

We are experiencing a lot of street flooding after the fires here in Co/Sprgs. It has been difficult keeping it clean.

Your reply was very helpful and thank you for your concern.

 

Your very welcome---

 

I don't think steering wheel shake would be caused by a motor mount. Check your wheel alignment or suspension bushings.

 

It can be related to the motor mounts actually. Was helping the dealer track down a bad vibration when accelerating at highway speeds right after installing coilovers on a customer car. Tried replacing axles which didn't help. Eventually replaced the motor mounts and that fixed it.

With that said though I would think that alignment/bushings are the more likely culprits.

 

Would agree since the rubber on that engine mount looks pretty perished. Rest of the rubber parts may be in the same shape.

 

Took to Import Auto Technicians in Co/Sprgs and had them look at it. They replaced lower control arm bushings and bad front right hub. It now drives and handles better than when I first bought it last summer.

They also found a leaky valve cover gasket and one leaky strut, but after spending $1100+ on the above, I will try to manage those repairs myself. Time to visit the Pelican website...

Thank you for the replies.

 

Those early mounts are harder to tell when they are worn out as they tend to just get shorter as they get old. But usually the rubber on the mount on the strut tower will be cracked or torn. That will indicate that the mount has gotten too short and needs replaced.
When you replace it you can go with our polyurethane TSW mount. It's a little harder but well worth it as it won't wear out like the rubber ones.
http://waymotorworks.com/early-tsw-m...4-r50-r53.html

We also stock all the standard repair parts and can help make any suggestions on what you need.