I'm trying to remove my subframe but the outer lower ball joint is stuck in the spindle. It's been soaking in PB blaster and I'm trying to use a cold chisel to separate them but it's not going anywhere. Help!

 

Try this: If you're going to re-use your ball-joint, don't use the original nut but find a nut with the same thread and partially start it onto the ball-joint. Then take a 2lb. sledge or hammer and give it a few good whacks. If that doesn't break it loose, time to go to Advance Auto and borrow a puller or go buy/borrow a "pickle fork" rather than a using a cold chisel. Remember the old addage: "When all else fails, use force!"

 

Wouldn't put a nut on the ball joint end and whack it just press it up into the spindle? Also won't a pickle form destroy the boot? I'm just trying to remove the outer ball joint mount from the bottom of the spindle

 

If I'm understanding your problem correctly, the outer ball joint taper is stuck in the control arm. Striking the threaded end (threads protected by the nut) will transmit shock that should break it loose. If you'll spray the boot with silicone and use a pickle fork with the proper spread (I believe 1 inch should work), it's doubtful you'll damage the boot. (I didn't).

 

The ball joint sticks in the steering knuckle pretty tightly. I've never been able to get them out without removing the knuckle from the car and banging the hell out of it with a hammer and screwdriver.
As others have posted, you're better off trying to remove the ball joint from the control arm. I've been able to pop them off with a puller and not damage the rubber boot. It's a little tricky because the arms of the puller like to slip off the control arm. Using the MINI specific tool is probably easier.

 

Sigh..... Someone should tell pelican to fix their article because it shows it cleanly pulling down.

I'm really hesitant to doing the job now because of this snag, what if I get past this issue and bam another snag like the flywheel won't come off or something. I was really hoping for some local help but only one local person has offered help but can't come out and this issue stumped him. He said his came out easily.

 

Where in the world can I get the mini specific tool? I might see if advanced auto has a puller or maybe harbor freight.

Again, just a little nervous now since this is essentially the most difficult job on the car and this is week three of ownership.

 

Joe, relax, practice your breathing. You'll be fine. Just borrow a puller and take it one step at a time.

 

Lol, it's cool. Glad I have a second car for the time being

 

I had this issue recently. They just "rust-weld" (as I call it) themselves in there. If its really stuck you have to go at it with the mindset that it needs to be destroyed beyond reuse to get it out. I used a small chisel with a flat blade and hammered it between the "wings"/flange (where the two bolt holes are) and spindle. This bent the flange downward and created a little gap - do it on both sides. The gap was then big enough to use my pneumatic air hammer with another flat blade. Blast away for a few seconds then do it on the other side for a few seconds. Keep repeating sides and you'll see it slowly slide out. I tried hitting it with a chisel in there manually like you but I didn't have much luck. The air hammer was the key. Destructive, but powerful - a great tool to have!

Assuming you have even a small compressor to use with it, low end air hammers are only about $20.

 

its not that hard to remove put your tie rods back in and turn the wheel all the way to the outside. then hit the lower control arm at the joint squarely about 2 inches up from the lower ball joint. 2-3 hits and it will drop out. Just be careful and don't over swing and catch your caliper.

 

Alright, I will hit the control arm where it connects to the ball joint. I should have loosened that bolt on it and tried that. I'll still grab a ball joint separator as insurance


I wish I had air tools so I could get bolts off easily and or screw this up with ease.

 

Just gotta get in there and f*** that s*** up! Many times I've not had much luck saving a ball joint that didn't want to come out.

 

Don't get it cocked or it will bind for sure, if you do just drive it back in to straighten it.

It's not true that they all stick either, I worked on an '02 Cooper S that had never been apart and they literally fell out once the bolts were removed.

I've seen others that were securely in there with mother nature's locktite too (rust)

Be kind to yourself and/or the next guy that works on it, coat it with antisieze or grease before you re-install it.

 

Your better off removing the ball joint from the control arm using a ball joint separator and using a old nut to avoid destroying the thread.
Then once you have removed the control arm you`ll have a lot more room to maneuver yourself.
Take a steel chisel and slowly work your way at it. Did mine last week and couldn't get them out (tried for like an hour with a chisel), then came the air tools and it took me 2 minutes with a air hammer.

As mentioned above, coat the new ball joint with antiseize to avoid such a problem next time you have to remove them