Any one know what these two mean together ran odb2 scanner they came up together. Was pulling away from a stop light battery light flashed then boom lost power went into limp mode with the EML light battery light and check engine light came on I think maybe the traction control light but don't remember for sure. Had it flat bedded home 200$ bummer. Ran those codes and kind of fumbled around the engine bay not really knowing if I did anything but lights aren't on anymore and I've driven around a little bit not really trusting it but no issues. Any ideas why it ran these codes together.

I've researched and heard MAF, bypass valve, and bad crank pulley. But, no one has said anything about these codes together. Anything will help, I just want to get back on the road without an uneasy feeling.

 

Welcome. You already mentioned some of the possible causes, but here it what the codes can mean separately.
P1688- Electronic throttle control monitor level 2/3 mass air flow calculation
Do you smell rubber burning?
If you do a lot of times this is caused by the crank pulley is going bad. That would be the first place I would look. The pulley has a rubber center for a vibration damper. Over time with heat and use the rubber starts to split, the center around the crank will continue to spin, the outer portion wit the belt wrapped around it will stop.
Another thing that can cause this is a bad BPV. You can check it by reaching around the back of the inter cooler output duct and place a finger on the BPV arm which extends from the BPV diaphragm to the butterfly pivot, press inward and release, the arm should move with slight resistance and return; feel and listen for a metallic noise, which is indicative of a broken spring.

 

+1 Look at the crank pulley
No real need to identify it through codes only..it is external...can be see, felt, and inspected.

Here is how they CAN fail...the rubber starts to slip or tear..

and the ATI is a GREAT replacement. I have one. Got it from here...
http://www.waymotorworks.com/super-d...ulley-r53.html

 

PS often the rubber slips and GRABS a couple times...getting WORSE each time...
the pulley slips...and the AC, Alternator, AC and waterpump stops working...the car will overheat VERY...
Sometimes the car will seem OK, then add a load...hard acceleration or even the AC, and it will start to slip again....

 

You can feel it and identify it by looking at it? How did you get your hand down there or really even be able to get a good look at it. If I remember correctly I don't think I could fit my hand down there. Could only feel the top of the belt. Also, is it hard to replace the pulley or better off taking it in? Is it costly? Is this the only reason it could be throwing that code?

 

Maybe this will help you if you want to replace the pulley yourself.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

 

That might be a little to much work for the time available I have. Has anyone taken their car in to get this fixed and have a rough idea of how much it costs?

 

So I took my car to a certified mini shop to have them run the codes. They call me up to tell me this p1688 code has popped up 55 times in the cars stored codes. They tell me to replace the whole throttle body cuz its going out. So I have them replace it. They install it run it on the machines and run it around town. They tell me its been fixed and the car is ready to go. 600 dollars later and get it home fine for a few hours then leave for the store and a quarter mile from my house bam back into limp mode giving me the same lights that originally popped up. What gives?!?!

 

Did they look at the crank pulley?

 

I told them that I had heard from several sources that that code ended up being a problem because of the pulley and they said that it was reading the throttle body was failing and another code was saying system too lean which I guess coincided with the throttle body. I don't know anything about minis so I was trusting what they said about it.

 

Get them to smoke intake tract and look for vacuum leaks. They should have done that with the lean code.

Jeremy

 

Okay I'll mention that. When the eml and cel light came on when limp mode started again I noticed that the traction control light popped on too. Is that normal? It was a circle arrow with an exclamation point in the middle

 

Just heard back from the mechanic. They were finally able to get the email and cell lights to come on while in their possession. They replaced the belt and tensioner. It was throwing the same code. They checked out the supercharger and the oil in it and they said its seizing up and needs to be replaced now. They said about 3400 after labor and tax. FML!!!!!! I ONLY HAD IT OR LIKE 2 WEEKS AFTER BUYING IT PRIVATELY!!!!

 

Does anyone know if that sounds legit?

 

My only question before answering this question, did they take the supercharger off the car? They CAN NOT check the oil on the waterpump side(driver side) without removing the SC from the car. Also you SC would of been making a horrible noise if it was seizing up. Let us know where you are located and the place you used and maybe someone can recommend another MINI specialists.

 

As far as I know they did. I feel like they know what they are doing. The owner actually used yo install the JCW package for a local Mini dealer. I live in Victorville, CA.

 

This is what it would look like if the gears were run with no oil


So is your MINI still apart or did they already put it back together? Also you can get a rebuilt SC for under $1000. So ask them how much they are charging for parts and labor and then maybe shop around or tell them you will get them the SC.

 

If I remember right they told me it would be a refurbished SC and all together it would 2800 this is after a 600 dollar credit for replacing the throttle body which was not faulting like they thought. Also, I live in Victorville, CA

 

Starting from the throttle body, can't help having doubts about your mechanic. If the charger isn't rattling, worry not. A simple ATI Super Damper or Prw Fluidamper swap cured many who've had those initial symptoms, mine included. Remove your passenger wheel well & check that pulley. Try to pry w/ a little force & watch for some rubber movement if there aren't any visible cracks.

 

They couldn't get the cel to come on so they were going off the code history. This time I got it bavk to them while it was still on. I never heard anything significant with the SC. When the light came on I saw that the very top pulley looked like it wouldn't keep spinning. What else would knock back the belt tensioner?

 

So I just talked to the tech again and he said the supercharger pulley is failing and it cannot be replaced on its own so I need to have the whole supercharger replaced. Is this true?

 

That is SOOOOOOO not true. I have never heard a pulley failed. The stock pulley is heat pressed on and must be removed with a pulley remover. Do you have an aftermarket pulley on? Can you get pictures of the pulley on the SC where it is being worked on. But IMO you really need to take it somewhere else to have your MINI worked on.

 

Ask your mechanic why it it can not be repaired. Then ask him if they can not be repaired why are their aftermarket under drive pulley's available for it. You seriously need to get your MINI out of there.

 

Pleeeeeease, find yourself another mechanic.

 

My 2006 R53 just got the same code P1688 after my battery light/check engine light came on. I tried to drive it just a block and it had little power (is this limp mode?)

Check engine light stayed on when I restarted, but the battery light would go off if I turned off AC. After restarting a few times the check engine light finally turned off. I revved a little and heard some jingling from the front end. When idling it sound a little klanky by the supercharger.

I live 6 blocks from where I broke down. Can I drive it home??