This may sound like a stupid question, however where are the o2 sensor fuses? Specifically the heated o2 sensor. I replaced my o2 sensor and am still receiving a CEL. Code is still being thrown.

I've looked in the engine bay fuse box as well as the fuse box next to the passenger foot well. No idea!

TIA!

 

Still no luck finding it.

Any ideas?

 

Thread Revival.

Can anyone tell me where the fuse for the heater to the pre-cat O2 Sensor is for a 2007 R56 Cooper? Car keeps getting a P0030 code but otherwise the car runs fine.

 

There are none.
I looked at the Bentley wiring
diagrams ELE-45 and ELE-60.

 

Cristo, thanks for that. I don't have the Bentley manual, please can you tell me the wiring to the Pre-Cat O2 sensor: my O2 sensor has Black, Grey, Red and Yellow wires, do you know which of the 6 pins each are connected to and which pair are for the heater? BIG thanks for your help!

 

Did you get this resolved? What was you final outcome?

I am currently dealing with a 2013 R56 (Gen2-Hard Top-Hatchback, non turbo N16B16A engine) that just threw a P0030 code and is a upstream oxygen sensor issue. (Specifically the code reads: H02S Heater Control Circuit Bank Sensor 1.) The sensor is completely removed and I was able to perform the recommended diagnostic tests to see where the issue lies. I'm pretty sure it's the heater circuit as there is no continuity/ohms there testing with my multi-meter. There is 12 volts power coming from the ECU.

I will be purchasing a new O2 sensor, no big hurry right now due to COVID-19. As I researched this issue, there are no recent post concerning O2 sensors, anywhere except here.

I have a 5 wire second generation O2 sensor that call for part number 11-78-7-595-353. Also referred to LSU O2 sensor (Lambda Sensor Unit?). My dilemma is whether to trust Bosch or go for OEM/Genuine. About 8 to 10 years ago many people posted not to use Bosch. It was also commented that NTK was the MINI OEM, not sure if that was true and for how long. To make matters even more confusing, there were comments about Bosch buying from NTK and reboxing them as Bosch; madness. It starts to make me mistrust where parts are even coming from. So now we are in 2020. These are probably rhetorical questions but are the second generation O2 sensors better and is that why there no longer posts regarding 02 sensors? Has Bosch finally got it together and made sure they are putting out a good product from lessons learned in the past? I would be fine buying a Bosch, much cheaper (by about $100 to $200 less compared to OEM), if I knew they would work properly.

If anyone out there can recommend an O2 brand, please let me know. I would love to talk to a parts person who was knowledgeable out there. I would like to note I was quoted a wacko price of $496 at a CA dealership, that's insane and only goes to prove never buy parts there! The most expensive online OEM was $380.99 from MiniMania. The OEM/Genuine was as low as $222 online by Minipartsdirect.com. Pays to look around and I will call around this week to find out return and warranty policies. Already, it looks like AutoHausaz has a good return policy, but I think does not carry the OEM. Once I get this back in the vehicle, I hope the code clears and I can move on.

 

Sorry, didn't see your post from 3/30/20 until now.
terminals on O2 sensor connector according to Bentley (the connector side that goes to the DME and ground, not the part that goes to the sensor)
For N16 engine:
1 yellow (20g) to first resistor
2 blue (20g) between first and second resistor
3 thicker (18g) white to heater
4 thicker (18g) orange to heater (assuming OR is orange - maybe typo of RO - red)
5 - nothing
6 thinner (20g) white to O2 sensor (which is connected to the second resistor which is connected to the first resistor in series)
For N18 engine:
Same except
2 is black
6 is blue

 

Thank you for posting that Cristo, that is very helpful. I was just guessing and only knew for sure the orange was the heater with 12 volts after testing with the multimeter and engine on but not running. I am including a few pics if to help someone else out to see the plug that goes to the ECU. For me, visual is always helpful. The numbers to wires match up exactly for the N16 as you have indicated, cheers.


wire positions: 5 - 3 - 1

wire positions: 6 - 4 - 2

 

Ok, here is my outcome. Everything working excellent as far as the O2 sensor. I finally realized that if the posts are 10 years old, it's probably safe to say that the issues are resolved regarding bad O2 sensors (and multiple complaints about Bosch in particular). Not to mention, no posts to this thread (but hopefully my experience might save someone time and money). I went ahead and got the Bosch O2 sensor and after I installed it (10 minutes to install) right away the engine light went off after starting for the first time. I have a BlueDriver scanning tool and the permanent code stayed on, but I wasn't too worried at this point, it was only the first time I started it. I cleared all codes and as the scanner tool says, the code will be cleared once the ECU determines the issue is fixed/resolved. Second start, I scanned and the permanent code cleared, success!!!. (BTW-I love the BlueDriver scan tool, which communicates to your phone by bluetooth and the app that is downloaded.) Before I bought the O2 sensor, I did call AutoHausaz and the parts guy confirmed their 45-day returned and 3 year warranty with their shop. Ok, this was a little comforting and to take a shot with the Bosch. After all, I like Bosch, and these were issues were from 10 years past. Plus, Bosch is over $100 cheaper than OEM/genuine. The parts person not knowing the history of bad sensors from 10 years ago with some MINIs gave me a seal of approval that Bosch was a good product, well who knows? My MINI is running pretty darn good after and the rich fuel issue that came with the O2 sensor issue is gone. I topped it off with a nice clean-up job and shined up the tail pipe. Just takes some dish soap and water and a little scrubbing. Then polish compound and looks likes new; a few Youtube videos are good for these things. Well if anyone reads this good luck. One more quick note, to remove and install the sensor, I used the slotted socket. I removed the exhaust manifold covering so I could see when the socket was around the sensor base. Much like removing a spark plug. Hopefully this all helps anyone who might need help.