I just attempted to change to coolant in my '07 R56 S.
- split the lower hose and drained the existing coolant.
- reattached the hose
- turned car ON (not started), heat to HI, blower LOW
- filled coolant tank
- opened black plastic "cross" bleed screw head a couple of turns
- continued to keep coolant tank full while it glugged slowly draining - a little less than a gallon
- no action at the bleed screw, tightened
- started the car for a minute
- nothing changed at the bleed screw or the expansion tank
- re-capped the expansion tank
- closed bleed screw and started car for 3-4 minutes
- tried the bleed screw once while running - nothing
- expansion tank level stayed at MAX.

I have not added enough coolant, no visible bleeding at screw AND the heater does not work.
What steps have I left out or done wrong?

Thanks in advance for your response. I'm afraid to drive my MINI until the cooling system gets fully filled.

*** SOLUTION FOUND - Turn bleeder screw 3 full turns to open and bleed system. (Do not turn more than 4 full turns or you could lose the bleeder screw someplace in the engine bay! ***

 

R56 Coolant System - Filling and Bleeding (without Vacuum Bleeder)
- Before filling radiator:
* swtich ignition ON - do NOT start engine
* set heater temperature control to full warm
* set blower control to low
* set set heater control (if installed) to maximum

- Start engine and run at idle speed for one mintute (coolant reservoir cap open). Adjust coolant level to MAX level, and close cap.
- Run engine until it reaches operating temperature.
- After engine has cooled, recheck coolant level.
- Top up so that coolant level is at MAX.
- If trapped air cannot be bled manually, pressure-bleed system using cooling system vacuum bleeder.

* https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ng-coolant.pdf

- Erik

 

bluefox: That is a great visual set of directions in your link!

From what I can tell, I followed the directions in the Bentley Manual and those you gave me.
So... can you see something I missed or did wrong?
Do I need to open the bleed screw more than 2 full turns?

Is my only option to take it in an have it vacuum bled?

 

I've done this a few times within the last month due to a water pump replacement and then a failed thermostat shortly after. I'm getting pretty good at it. : )

I did the process as you outlined, but then started the car and let idle for ten minutes or so....bled the air, let cool, and fill to full. I carried around a screwdriver with me for a few days and would periodically pop the hood when the car was just parked from a drive and crack open the bleed screw to remove the air. When the system is hot and pressurized, it will bleed more easily. Two or three times doing this and you will be good to go.

Something else to remember. The screw has to be turned THREE full rotations before it vents. You may not actually be bleeding it at all if you are only turning it one or two times. I learned that the first time around.

Good luck.

 

By "coolant tank" do you mean the expansion tank? Most (water-cooled) cars I've mucked with have an expansion tank which is not what you use to add coolant to the car. You add coolant to the radiator directly; the expansion tank gives the coolant extra room when it expands from heat.

However, I haven't paid any real attention to that part of my MINI. So I could be wrong about it...

 

The cap on the coolant tank/reservoir is the only opening in the system on the R56. No cap on the radiator directly. The whole system is pressurized (including the tank) when hot, so you can't pop it open to top it off when the engine is hot like you can on a car with the traditional expansion tank setup.

 

I'll try the 3 turn bleed screw method.
I was afraid of backing the screw out all the way and then really being screwed.
Thanks

 

I hear ya! I was afraid too.

Just went out to the garage out of curiosity and found the old thermostat....was still in the trash bin. The screw comes out just after the fourth full turn.

 

When I changed my coolant I found the system take in coolant fast from the expansion tank if you raise it above where it sits. It would not take in the full amount of coolant when I left the expansion tank where it normally sits. You need to fill it very slowly though to minimize trapped air in the lines.

When I did the first start up after seeing no bubbles come from the bleeder when filling, I left the expansion tank cap off, closed the bleeder, and also rev'd the engine to 2000rpm after the thermostat opened. This will help agitate the bubbles in the system and get them to move to the expansion tank. It took me just a few small top offs to be at the full factory coolant level. The trick is getting the thermostat to open. This will be very hard to do in a cold garage (you might not even get it warm enough idling).

 

I have done this as well. This is by far the best method to do by yourself.

 

The 3 turns of the bleed screw did the trick. Bleeding cold with the cap OFF gave me some air, but no coolant. After running the car 10 minutes with the cap ON, car off then bleeding ----- I got the air, then bubbles, then coolant.

I'll check it again after the next couple of drives to be sure.

 

Congrats! You successfully burped him.

 

Great job.

 

And don't ever disconnect any part of it while the car is still hot. We won't go into how I know this little tidbit.

 

Changed the coolant in my 2010 MCS today. I was only able to collect less than a gallon of old coolant. Added a similar amount of new stuff to get back to full. The Bentley manual mentions 3 different cooling system capacities in 3 different places, but all of them are more than a gallon. What did I do wrong?

Drained by splitting the hose at the bottom of the radiator. Removed the cap from the expansion tank and opened the bleed screw. Switched the ignition on without starting the car and ran the heater as described in the service manual. Not sure why it tells you to set the seat heater to max but I even did that.

No doubt I got most of it but I hate to do 2/3 of the job.

 

awesome advice, i will try this on my car. Thanks!

 

"- turned car ON (not started), heat to HI, blower LOW"

So, my 09 Cooper (N12 engine)'s fans only come on when I actually press the start button. The radio will come on if I just push the key in but not the fans. Am I missing something?

 

On my 2011 MCS manual, to turn the ignition on without starting engine, I insert the keyfob, then WITHOUT depressing the clutch, push the start button. My wifes 2013 Cooper is an auto. To do the same, ignition on, engine off, insert the keyfob, then push the start button without stepping on the brake pedal. Hope this helps!

 

Thanks so much!!

 

There's a much easier way to bleed the system without mucking about with the bleeder screw. Fill the system, start the vehicle with heater on high and the reservoir cap off. Then apply a vacuum to the reservoir with a wet dry shop vac. Five seconds on then release. Do that a few times and the system will be completely bleed. Mini has a special tool to apply vacuum while filling the system but this alternative methods works very well.

 

Thanks Tigger2011... gonna try this first thing in the morning...

 

Because it was cold today (30F) I had to increase RPMs for a while before it would reach anywhere near 210-220F. I did so with the expansion tank bottle cap removed and the bleeder screw open. As soon as I saw coolant coming out of the bleeder, I turned the bleeder screw shut.

My question is, did you allow the expansion tank to start to overflow a little before putting the cap back on? The Bentley manual doesn't require this but I waited until the thermostat opened and the expansion tank started to fill to the point of over-topping and then I put the cap on so I wouldn't spill more coolant. Is that not necessary?

 

@tigger The shop vac trick is amazing! I just used it to flush the old coolant completely out of my R53, R56, and R60. So easy. Thank you for the tip!

 

Does the car need to be at operating temp for this procedure? Meaning does the thermostat need to be open? Or does the thermostat automatically open when the heater is turned on? Can you provide a photo of how you are connecting a shop vac to the threaded reservoir top?

 

I usually start the process when the vehicle is cold. By the time the temps come up its bleed. Most wet/dry vac hoses are larger the mouth on the reservoir so it just goes around it.