That's a cheap option...me like. I have a vacuum tool for that but you need a compressor to use it and a bucket and its kinda annoying to use. So this is a good option. You should demonstrate via video...

I'd still open the bleeder screw on the head just in case you didnt vacuum out all the air. Its so accessible. The only problem with that stupid bleed point is you never really know when you've bled it 100% as it just keep burping water and air.

 

can you describe the size of the wet/dry vac you use. Mine is a 16 gal 6.5 HP and it is super strong.

 

A video is a pretty good idea. (palm to forehead) I should have made one when I did it not too long ago. Vlad gets the drain and flush treatment every two years. The other reason I started doing this is because, I think it was on Tigger that I broke the bleed screw tightening it back down. Who makes a bleed screw for a pressurized system out of brittle plastic jeesh. Now I never have to worry about that.

Exact same size as yours. Mines a Rigid brand 16/6.5 from the Home Despot (yep I meant to spell it that way)

 

Thats a LOT of power applied to the top of the resivor. As you are applying for about 5 seconds, how much coolant gets sucked out? None?
And one last thing, In the instructions below, I assume the bleeder screw is CLOSED.

There's a much easier way to bleed the system without mucking about with the bleeder screw:
- Fill the system
- start the vehicle with heater on high and the reservoir cap off
- Then apply a vacuum to the reservoir with a wet dry shop vac. Five seconds on then release.
- Do that a few times and the system will be completely bleed. Mini has a special tool to apply vacuum while filling the system but this alternative methods works very well.

 

Correct. The bleeder screw is closed. Fill till the reservoir is about 1/3rd full. Start vehicle with heater on max, fan on high and the level will drop. Fill the reservoir again till about 1/3rd full and apply vacuum. As the reservoir burps a few drops might get pulled out but very little. When you remove the vacuum the reservoir level will drop. Repeat this process, adding coolant as necessary until the level stabilizes. Usually, around this time the coolant is becoming warm and starting to rise. Fill to the half mark and put the cap on. System is now bleed without covering the top of the transmission or floor with coolant.