I bought a new cv axle cause the one boot is torn. Anyway, I have my car all ripped apart, just need the dang wishbone arm to get disconnected from the ball bearing. How can I do this without the ball bearing separator?

Thats all I need help with, the rest should be very easy.

 

go to motoring alliance then go:/forums/cooper-s-engine-drivetrain/5277-passenger-cv-boot-replace-am-i-missing-something.html#axzz24FjHqN1f

Hope this helps. Merry Christmas!

 

I bought this axle, not the right one though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/110944951249...84.m1497.l2649

My old one has the boot right by the tranny with the bearings inside. I Know I need an axle with a boot right outside the tranny covering the bearings, but where do I get that type of axle?

Merry Christmas.

 

Ebay part is for auto trans. Is yours auto or manual?

 

Thanks for the reply, mine is the auto. The issue is that this axle I bought is longer then my old one, and if I put the 3 ball bearings on the end of the new one which will have to be with a hammer if its even possible to get on, then I need a 3rd boot to cover the grease for the ball bearings.

I just don't understand this, couldn't find the axle I need anywhere so I just bought a boot instead. Everything looks fine, didn't see dirt, and lots of grease inside so I probably caught this very fast. The car was recently inspected too, and usually they find stuff like this so it had to just happen recently.

 

Here is an axle like the one on my car: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARDONE-60-9...1a59fb&vxp=mtr


Finally found it after I bought the boot to fix mine. If I have issues I will be buying this axle next along with the lower ball bearings, and maybe a new wheel hub. Dang wheel hub isn't rounded for some reason, so its hard to get the dang lug nuts on the wheel to screw in, and tighten the wheel to it. This $100 axle job might be turning into a $500 job till I am done. Should've just sawed everything off like the original plan, and bought all new parts, less headaches that way since nothing was falling apart for me. I used a digging iron to pry the lower control arm apart, ended up lifting my car off the jack stands, tried a hammer, then I tried a sledge hammer with lots of force, and got everything apart. Now just hoping the car drives fine when I am done.

 

You can just unbolt the lower ball joint. Pieco O cake. The bad part is if an axle clip gets stuck. I had to take apart my axke and weld a slide hammer to the cup to get it out. Then I couldn't get the new one in. So I left out the clip. one year later my axle fell out. When I got towed home I found out the origional problem. the cheap $100 axle did not have the groove machined right so the clip could not collapse all the way. a little dremel work to make the grove deeper the axle slid back in and so did the clip. I wish I had figured out that a year ago. oh well.

 

I did, removed all 3 bolts for the lower ball joint, and the dang thing wouldn't come out. I replaced the boot on the old axle, and one of the ball bearings fell apart, so much fun putting the bearings back together. Then I get it all together, thought my brake line was supposed to be routed a different way, unbolted the nut, now no brakes, and a strange noise, but I think I know what the noise is, and I know I need to bleed the brakes. Doing that stuff tomorrow, hopefully I fix the noise.

 

Just hit the lower arm a couple times real hard from the side with a big mallet it will just pop off. Those ball joints can be a bear to take out without damaging them. You could heat it up but I wouldn't recommend it.