Okay so I found a wire that definitely wasn't stock. It was a green,white and black wire all twisted and crimped with ring terminals on both ends. I found one of the ends on the driver strut bolt and the other went under the driver outside dash vent and bolted to the wiper blade actuator arm. What I want to know is what is wrong with the stock ground? Keep in mind this is the same 02 mini cooper that will not start or even crank over. It acts like the clutch isn't pressed in.

(already replaced starter, clutch sends signal when pressed, ignition sends signal when turned to start)

And my throttle plate won't open. I mean I can't start the car but if I put the car in run position shouldn't the throttle respond to me pressing the pedal? It throws a code saying high input or low input one or the other. It won't start either maybe it has to do with this throttle? Whenever I turn the key to off position the throttle slightly opens and then shuts quickly. What is going on here?

Thanks

 

measure voltage on the b+ terminal (next to air intake) key on engine off. Should have 12.3ish volts. Then measure voltage while cranking. This voltage should not drop below 9 volts- if it does you have a weak battery. If your battery is new/good, jump the starter solenoid by using a large jumper wire or starter bypass switch ($7 harbor freight or other). the engine should crank if your battery and starter are good. Also, does the engine crank over by hand? a seized engine is a possibility there.

key on engine cranking the throttle should be able to be opened using your foot. It will not open with key on, engine off with your foot in it. when you turn the key on, it cycles by opening slightly then closing- this is normal operation.

 

Hey jake.

I just put the new immobilizer in that i ordered from mini and the car now cranks with the key. It was slow at first so i got the hemi truck and jumped the battery. It cranks real fast now but still won't fire. This car had a lot of "jerry rigged" stuff;

First, I found a ground wire from the wiper motor to the frame and without this the wipers do not work.

Second, someone took the running light beside the turn signal(above the fog and below the hood) and cut the connection then stripped the wires and twisted them together How could someone be so stupid and do this. Needless to say this was shorting fuses so I fixed this then repaired that. All good.

Third, I found the window motor in the driver side door has reversed polarities (blue/black wire and green/black wire were cut and then stripped and twisted together to the opposite colors on the connector). It actually works the right way too. I swapped them back and it was reversed with the colors matching... again.... The other thing about this wiring job was that this numnut just took the wires and twisted them together... no crimps, no solder. Just electrical tape.

And now that I replaced the immobilizer and can get the car to crank it seems like there is something wrong with PCM since there is no spark from the plugs. I think it's getting fuel. i hear the fuel pump and I smelt fuel on the spark plugs. Here is a video of the car cranking over that I

 

Hey jake.

I just put the new immobilizer in that i ordered from mini and the car now cranks with the key. It was slow at first so i got the hemi truck and jumped the battery. It cranks real fast now but still won't fire. This car had a lot of "jerry rigged" stuff;

First, I found a ground wire from the wiper motor to the frame and without this the wipers do not work.

Second, someone took the running light beside the turn signal(above the fog and below the hood) and cut the connection then stripped the wires and twisted them together How could someone be so stupid and do this. Needless to say this was shorting fuses so I fixed this then repaired that. All good.

Third, I found the window motor in the driver side door has reversed polarities (blue/black wire and green/black wire were cut and then stripped and twisted together to the opposite colors on the connector). It actually works the right way too. I swapped them back and it was reversed with the colors matching... again.... The other thing about this wiring job was that this numnut just took the wires and twisted them together... no crimps, no solder. Just electrical tape.

And now that I replaced the immobilizer and can get the car to crank it seems like there is something wrong with PCM since there is no spark from the plugs. I think it's getting fuel. i hear the fuel pump and I smelt fuel on the spark plugs. Here is a video of the car cranking over that I took. As a matter of fact you can see a fuel cloud shoot out of the plug hole.

 

The immobilizer (EWS) must be coded using a factory scan tool and your key must be coded/aligned to the engine computer (DME). Unfortunately this something you cannot DIY. Have it towed to the dealer or local import shop that can do it. I think you're a bit far from our shop

As far as the throttle body goes, that clicking is normal. and dont worry about it not opening until you can get the EWS coded and aligned.

 

furthermore, heres a quick explanation of how this system works.

you turn key => key communicates with EWS => EWS recognizes the key => EWS communicates with DME to send signal to fire coil upon cranking.

the DME will not recognize the new EWS until everyone is speaking the same language.

 

The ews is coded. I ordered it from mini. They took my vin number and sent it coded. It now cranks over with the key. Where is the dms? I am taking the car to mini tonight so hopefully they can fix it. I found a fuse missing on the backside of the fuse box in the engine bay beside the ecm and as soon as i plugged it in and the battery the power steering pump starts whinning real loud

 

DME is the main engine computer or ECM/PCM next to the fuse box. The EWS still needs to be aligned to the DME. keep us posted.

 

Oh okay. I know what you are talking about. I actually went and borrow a flat bed car trailer from me friend that also had a winch on it and towed the car with my dodge ram down to reliable BMW in springfield, MO. They will get to it tomorrow and give me a call by 5PM so as soon as I know from them i will post on here. I am crossing my fingers that it is a simple programming issue like you stated. Because I have to replace the power steering motor(it just whines non stop even with the key out of the ignition) This wasn't an issue til I found the fuse missing underneath the fuse / relay box by the dme. And I want to have the new window motor and regulator installed that is sitting in the car.

 

Any updates?

 

Hey guys. It has been a little since I posted on here and truth be told I forgot about this thread haha I have a few on different forums. I got the car down to BMW. They programmed the ews module and its running great now. I also had them fix the window regulator and motor. I replaced the turn signal lamp that was out. Fixed the fog light that was hanging down in the bumper. I put some new tail lights and projector housings in. Also added hids to my fogs, highs and lows.

 

Great! Now, you're a happy motorer!