Bad coilpack? P2300
Bad coilpack? P2300
I was driving back from a mountain bike outing this morning and noticed a few blips while cruising that felt like misfires. It drove fine for the next 5 minutes to my house.
Several minutes later I go to leave and it cranks quite a bit and then runs very rough with a wavering idle (600-1000rpm).
I pulled a code P2300 and began searching forums.
I noticed on on motoring alliance somebody said if the bottom of the coilpack is WHITE that means it's bad, black meaning good. Is this true? Mine is white.
"pull the ignition coil and check the bottom if its white it is dead. If its black its good and then if its grey its inbetween."
If this is the case I will go ahead and order a new one right now but I can't find info about it anywhere else. Most people I've seen with this code have both P2300 and P2303 (P2300 Ignition Coil "A" Primary Control Circuit Low/ P2303 Ignition Coil "B" Control Circuit Low. Oddly enough I cannot find P2300 in my Bentley manual.
About a month ago I removed the coilpack while installing an aftermarket header. I made sure to clean the corrosion from the contacts and it ran fine afterwards until now.
Several minutes later I go to leave and it cranks quite a bit and then runs very rough with a wavering idle (600-1000rpm).
I pulled a code P2300 and began searching forums.
I noticed on on motoring alliance somebody said if the bottom of the coilpack is WHITE that means it's bad, black meaning good. Is this true? Mine is white.
"pull the ignition coil and check the bottom if its white it is dead. If its black its good and then if its grey its inbetween."
If this is the case I will go ahead and order a new one right now but I can't find info about it anywhere else. Most people I've seen with this code have both P2300 and P2303 (P2300 Ignition Coil "A" Primary Control Circuit Low/ P2303 Ignition Coil "B" Control Circuit Low. Oddly enough I cannot find P2300 in my Bentley manual.
About a month ago I removed the coilpack while installing an aftermarket header. I made sure to clean the corrosion from the contacts and it ran fine afterwards until now.
I sanded all the ground points for the coil pack and put everything back on. At that moment I noticed that the connector for the coilpack does not lock on! It slides very easily right off. I don't think this was the problem initially as I had to use some effort and press the back part properly to get it off.
Either way after cleaning the contact points and also one slightly dark colored spark plug contact it is running smooth again. I haven't ventured on the road with it yet because that connector isn't locking on. I suppose I could use some zip ties in the meantime but I think they may melt off.
Either way after cleaning the contact points and also one slightly dark colored spark plug contact it is running smooth again. I haven't ventured on the road with it yet because that connector isn't locking on. I suppose I could use some zip ties in the meantime but I think they may melt off.
Tried to start it after sending the previous post.... really rough... 3 cyl...
I messed with the connector trying to push it in tighter and tried starting again. It started right up and ran fine. I have the connector zip tied but if I move it around up/down left/right it cuts off and the engine will start running terrible or die.
Now I have to find out if part of the coilpack broke off and is not allowing the connector to lock on OR if the connector broke.
I messed with the connector trying to push it in tighter and tried starting again. It started right up and ran fine. I have the connector zip tied but if I move it around up/down left/right it cuts off and the engine will start running terrible or die.
Now I have to find out if part of the coilpack broke off and is not allowing the connector to lock on OR if the connector broke.
I just went through this with my '03 Mini Cooper. Turned out to be a bad transistor on the ECU.
First I checked the coil with an ohm meter to check resistance. Everything there was fine. Then I checked continuity from the injector connector to the fuse box and ECU. Here again all checked OK. Sent ECU out to SIA Electronics and they found a fried transistor on the ignition circuitry. They repaired for $220 and after install, everything worked perfect again.
First I checked the coil with an ohm meter to check resistance. Everything there was fine. Then I checked continuity from the injector connector to the fuse box and ECU. Here again all checked OK. Sent ECU out to SIA Electronics and they found a fried transistor on the ignition circuitry. They repaired for $220 and after install, everything worked perfect again.
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