I made a video of this sound when turning off my 2008 Mini S. Anyone know what it is?

 

have you checked for a little man playing a kazoo in your engine bay?

Is your a/c or heat ON or OFF when you turn off the car? Does it go away if you do the opposite?

 

lol. Typically the a/c is on. I'll try it the other way and see. It also only seems to happen if the motor is warmed up quite a bit. If I drive a few miles and turn it off I don't hear it.

 

Tried it with the a/c off and it still made the noise when I shut it down...

 

Having the same issue on my 08 cooper s. and the length of the "moo" varies. No A/C on. Varies and is inconsistent with driving distance, style, or speed.

 

Update on mine: the noise stopped. But along with that came a check engine light. The error is "2885 BOOST PRESSURE CONTROL DEVIATION PLAUSIBILITY" The power is also lower than usual.

I first thought maybe my turbo had been making the mooing sound and it had decided to sieze up, but I checked it and it still spins freely and doesn't appear to be touching the compressor.

I'm still baffled.

 

Found the solution to the moo. its the mass air flow sensor. While the car is on, unplug the sensor, located on right of the intake filter and the noise is made. It is a pricey fix about $300 to $400 on line. im sure it is more at the stealership! but has to be fixed!

 

I would check the valve cover, if it's the moo I think it is. Listen at around the top left corner (facing engine) of the valve cover when it makes the noise.

 

I don't understand how the MAF can make a noise as there are no moving parts in it. Is it backpressure in the intake piping?

Try cleaning it with some MAF cleaner - usually 7-10 dollars a bottle before

 

I will definitely try that. Yeah i thought the same, nothing but a sensor. But when i unplug the wire from it, the mooing occurs. Back pressure makes sense cause it occurs when the engine shuts down.

I will also look there. Did notice a little oil in that area as well. Any thoughts on why? just loose? whats the torque Specs on the valve cover?

 

If you notice oil towards the top of the valve cover, its ethier the cover or the crankcase hose (black hose with black heat wrap on it). The torque spec for the valve cover is 10Nm.

 

The Duck Call.

Boost Controller valve/Pressure Converter is going bad. That is the sound it makes when it does. Replace it. #2 on the diagram. Located directly attached to the underside of the intake manifold and has 2 vacuum lines coming of it.

 

Thanks for the info i will check it out.

 

Been looking around online, and it is hard to find that part. Can anyone point in a good direction. And is this the part number: 11657599547

 

Dealer or Penske Parts.
http://www.penskeparts.com/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=50031
(Diagram is @ bottom left #11_3982, Part # 11657599547: Price: $136.27)

Should take you about 30 min to replace if you've got the right tools and have done it before, maybe an hour if its your first time. If you have access to a lift you can do it from the underside of the vehicle, but if not then removal of intake manifold will be easiest IMHO.

Good Luck, and lmk if you run into any bumps.

 

that helps! Thanks i will post any hiccups.

 

hey sorry to bring up an old thread but could anyone tell me if this ECS part would help solve this issue? I've been hearing this noise lately as well...

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-C...ure/ES1929951/

 

Folks,
I know it's an old thread, but I had picked up the same sound (intermittently) this fall, usually when the ambient drops below 55F.
Has anyone fixed this and can confirm that the root cause was the pressure converter?

TIA,
a

 

I can potentially let you know in a couple weeks. I just placed an order for a new pressure converter. $117...hope this solves it ::fingers crossed::

 

I posted another thread on this exact thing and can confirm that the pressure converter is the cause of the duck/kazoo sound .

 

thanks dude...and yup, I swapped it out (even posted a link to the video of how I swapped it out in another thread). kazoo sound gone!

 

Guys, thanks for the posts. I've been getting this sound off and on for quite a while. It seems more frequent when its cooler outside. I thought it had something to do with the heater blower motor, but have since ruled that out. The noise goes away after the engine has warmed up, but that may be because the pressure converter gets warm from the engine heat.

Can someone tell me what the pressure converter does and can I delay replacing it with little risk of serious problems?

 

This is to confirm that I just fixed my "mooo-ing/kazoo" sound on '08 R56 by replacing the Pressure Converter (PC). Bought mine from ECS tuning since they had the lowest price.

I found it WAY easier to access it from below (after removing the air filter box and intake manifold ;-). Just jack the car up enough to roll under it with some clearance. Shine the light under the intake manifold and the first gizmo with 2 vacuum lines and 1 electrical connector is the PC. Access is tight, but better than going from above with near zero visibility - at least you can see clearly from below.

Budget ~15 minutes to jack the car up properly (can leave front wheels on), ~15 minutes to crawl under, find the PC and replace it, ~15 minutes to put it back down on the ground. Add ~15 minute beer brake in the middle or towards the end. 60 minutes total.

PC gave up a prolonged "groan of death" as I started disconnecting the vacuum lines, scared the crap out of me.
The car started up and shut down without any noise after the replacement.

Pics and more detailed description to follow.


a

 

Any pics and detailed description to show yet afadeev?

 

OK, here is the long story of DIY replacing R56 Pressure Converter (PC) with pictures (hopefully they uploaded correctly).

Tools required:
- lots of portable light sources
- lots of surgical rubber gloves (you will tear a few)
- jeweler's flat-head screw drivers to help disconnect fasteners from the old PC
- whatever it takes to safely jack the nose of the car up and put it on jack stands
- optional: paper towels and rags to clean up the dirt and oil residue, if you are so inclined.


Step 1: Jack up the front of the car and support it with sturdy jack stands. As high as you can, as the extra height will give you more elbow room you will appreciate down the road. If you have never done this before, search the forums or drop me a line on how to do this safely.

Step 2: After the engine has been off for ~1 hour (you will be hugging the exhaust pipe - don't get burned), climb underneath the engine with all available sources of light, and a small flat screw driver. With your feet facing forward, you will see what I pictured. One picture that is 1/2 obscured by the nose undertray shows the orientation. The second picture is a closeup of the area we care about, right above the 2 red wires.

Step 3. Look at the 2nd pic right past the double red-wire element. You can see the connector to the PC. The rest of the PC plastic body is partially obscured by those two red wire connector, but not to worry. The rubber enclosure around the PC is impaled on a metal "blade" attached to the intake manifold, positioned across the center-line of the car. Push/tug it sideways from passenger to driver side. It will wiggle off the mount and drop down below the red connectors into clear view (and too close for my camera to focus).

Step 4: Unplug 1 electrical connector and 2 vacuum hoses from the old PC, plug them into the new PC. BEWARE: when I unplugged the vacuum lines, my old PC let out a long ferocious groan that prompted me to instinctively pull my hands back out in hurry, and whack them on the exhaust pipe.
If necessary, you can get more wiggle room and drop the PC further down into your grasp by unclipping one of the clamps holding the shorter vacuum hose to the intake manifold (it's the one depicted doing upside-down-U arch north of PC wiring loop on the close-up pic).

Step 5: Briefly test start/stop the engine to make sure everything works and the shut-down groan is gone for good (you can delay this until step 6 as well). Turn the engine off quickly before exhaust pipe gets hot, then climb back down under the engine bay. Now shove the new PC onto the blade mount. It will be somewhat tricky as you will have to work blind, but there is nothing to break by trying too hard, so just give it a push with a wiggle and it will slide back in place.

Step 6: Jack the car back down from jack-stands. Go for a test drive. Have a beer and pat yourself on the back.


Hope this helps,
alex f

P.S.: At first, I did try to follow other's internet instructions and get to the PC by removing the airbox, the intake ducting, and loosening the intake manifold from the engine block. But even with intake propped ~3" wide from the engine, the access was frustratingly minimal and I was not able to put the vacuum lines back on the PC. That's when I crawled under the car for the Eureka moment - the PC was WAYYYYY easier to reach from below.
P.P.S.: I was also replacing my CAI with the stock airbox for the winter (autoX season is over, no need to ingest additional grime into the engine past the "performance" filters), so the time spent removing the airbox was not a total waste for me.