Hi all,

I'm having trouble with my 2008 MCS trunk - when I unlock the trunk using the keyfob, the trunk will no longer latch shut unless I press the trunk unlock button on the keyfob a second time, at which point I'll hear a click and then it will shut with no issues.

Any idea what could be causing this issue? Thanks!

 

Probably just needs some lubrication. Spray a small amount of "white lithium grease" in the latch mechanism and wmake it latch unlach a few time and the problem should go away.

 

i have the same thing..tried lube with no change...

 

mine started like this, then ended up only being able to open with the key fob and not the button on the boot.

 

Tried white lithium grease, no change. I don't think lube would be the solution for what seems to be a mechanical failure occurring during the first key fob unlock. Anyone ever have this occur and was able to resolve it?

 

Same problem, anyone ?

 

I am also having the exact same problem!!
Hopefully someone knows a fix for this.
Instead of the typical " buy a new lock " response.

 

Bump please, I've been looking through the forum and asking around but still haven't been able to find what causes the issue where the keyfob needs to be pressed twice in order for the trunk to latch.

 

Weird, I have this too. It started right before MTTS 2012.
I can pop the trunk with the remote but when I go to close it, it doesn't latch.

If I pop the trunk and then click the handle button when opening the trunk Then it will latch. I can hear the lock cycling when I do this which is why it's latching when I go to close it.

I talked with my dealer about this and they said that it could be the handle, supposedly somethings gone wrong where the handle its self is not receiving the full signal from the remote when opening the trunk, If this is the case it's a software issue and not a physical one.

I had the handle replaced once already but this was because I could not open it with the handle but I could with the remote, my MA says it's weird that I would have another bad handle but I guess it could happen, but it's also different problem.

 

Bump, I have this same problem on my 07 R56 with 52k. Took it into the dealership they wanted to replace the entire handle part right above license plate and quoted me around $360. I am still not convinced that that is the problem. For that price I'll live with pressing the trunk twice, but hopefully someone will have found the solution soon!

 

Same problem...any easy

 

Same problem...any easy fix?

 

Ours had a different take on it. It would only open with the fob, we could not open it from the outside even though the doors were unlocked. Then it started working correctly again out of the blue. I think it's some computer glitch. I think there's something in the menu to change how it works, you may want to try playing with that menu. I haven't.

 

Mine has the same issue -- service advisor at the dealer suggested screwing out the stops on the lid a quarter turn or two, as they compress over time. This did work, at least for a bit, but if I get them out enough for it to work, the sensor thinks the boot is open. There may be a happy medium in there somewhere, but I've not played with that too much.

There are reports around here of similar issues being due to breakage of a part in the latch mechanism (on the body, not the lid), found after removing the plastic cover.

The latch on the lid only works for me about 10% of the time, I've ignored that.

 

This issue just started happening on my wife's 2008 MCS. (I thought she didnt know how to close boot - lol)
I played with the remote a couple of times when it happened the first time and it finally latched shut. The next time it happened, I could not get it to 'reset' to latch...I used a screwdriver to push on the latch mechanism as if it was the trunk latch and it would not stay in the latched position. I played with the lock a few times - not wanting to take apart all of the plastic covers in the dark.....I noticed a little white tap on the top, right side of the latching mechanism - I flipped it to the right, it clicked and it seems to have fixed the issue. It has been less than 24hours, so I dont know if this is a valid fix....or an accidental fix like pushing key fob buttons.

 

I have this same problem. I took off the hatch release panel (above license plate). The colored part snaps off from the back underside but the actual looking unit is sealed, so I was unable to get into there. I spoke with Mini of San Diego and it sounds like its a common problem and from the service rep, they said that replacing the entire hatch release panel usually does the trick.

 

I've traced the problem on my Cooper R56.
Inside the motor drive section of the hatch release actuator, (BMW part no. 51242754528), there is an arm which is part of the plastic moulding of the motor cradle. (Sorry. In the UK we use OEM English) This arm acts as a spring that helps to reset the mechanical latch after the initial activation by the remote, or by the external release under the hatch handle. If this arm is broken, the latch mechanism doesn't restore fully while the weight of the hatch is pressing the latch loop onto the latch. When the remote is operated again, the latch mechanism restores to the correct position, and the hatch can be shut. If the locking is operated with the hatch open, the latch will appear to function correctly, as it needs to be inhibited by the weight of the hatch to hold it in the half reset position.

The cure is a replacement actuator, or mend the broken arm.

In my case I was able to mend the arm.

Remove the actuator from the car.
The motor section has a clipped-on cover. Carefully release the plastic catches (6 off) with a small screwdriver, and lift off the cover. (Try not to break any, as the cover holds the motor down onto the gearing, and any broken catches may allow the worm gear to lift.) Lift out the motor cradle and micro switch assembly. On one side of the cradle there is a "U" shaped section. From the centre (Sorry) of the "U" there should be an arm approx. 25x3x2mm that fits inside the gearing and is engaged by a peg on one of the gears. The arm may still be hanging by a thread, or it may be inside the gearing.

Mine had broken off where it joins the motor cradle in the top of the "U". The motor can be gently prised out of the cradle. It's a push fit onto two terminals. I masked off the back of the "U" and used a hot melt glue gun to partly fill the "U" with the arm in its' correct position. So far it's lasted 2 weeks with regular use of the remote. (It doesn't matter if the remote or the handle is used. The lock releases in exactly the same process. The fault appears to only happen when the remote is used because that is only when the weight of the hatch rests back on the latch.)

If you are not into "fixing", then a replacement is the way to go.

If you go for a used actuator, make sure it's for a 2007 ->, (BMW part no. 51242754528), as the wiring for the micro switch is different to the earlier minis. The actuator will work, but the rear wash/wipe won't because Mini's brain thinks the hatch is open, and also keeps "bonging" to tell you.

I hope this is of help to you all.

 

The rear hatch button does not work on my R56 and I need to use the Key Fob to release the rear hatch. The dealer has quoted $241 to replace the rear hatch button. For me, this is well worth the cost to pay the dealer.


Happy Motoring!