Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Failed NJ inspection 3x now, Comprehensive Component Not Ready

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  #26  
Old 08-05-2016, 07:16 PM
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I'm having the same problem in California. It has nothing to do with the inspection procedures or the sate, it is all MINI. I'm well past warranty but the car should be ready for emissions testing if the drive cycle is executed. Has anyone asked MINI for help on this?
 
  #27  
Old 03-04-2017, 09:09 PM
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7 months later...... CCM ready

I know this thread is really old but here is my saga. I changed all hoses, t-stat and coolant in 7/16 and took to inspection in Aug of same year. I failed because CCM was not ready. They asked me if I had any work done to it and I said that I replaced the hoses, thermostat and coolant. They asked if I disconnected the battery and I said yes that I removed it and the battery box to make it easier to get to the t-stat housing. They said I need a drive cycle. I drove the car 4 thousand miles and couldn't get a drive cycle. I disconnected the battery a few time during the 7 months I was driving it trying to get the drive cycle. I also checked all the fuses inside and outside. I held the plus and minus cables together to drain any voltage in the car 2 times. I finally took it to a shop where they do a lot of inspections and he had it for a few days to try and get a drive cycle. 3 days later I get a call that it is fixed. It was a bad thermostat. The gauge inside the car when to that same spot it always did so I figured everything was fine. He told me that the coolant temp in the engine was not getting hot enough. After replacing it he got a drive cycle in 20 miles. New doesn’t mean good I guess.
 
  #28  
Old 06-01-2017, 03:38 PM
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2004 R53 failed inspection

So I failed the NJ inspection today. A few things on the system said "Not Ready". I have the Fuel System, Comprehensive Component, Catalytic Converters, Evaporative System, and Oxygen Sensors. I have no check engine lights, and when I plug in my OBD they all say active... It's been years since my car has had an inspection, I wish I had never transferred back to NJ
 
  #29  
Old 06-01-2017, 08:30 PM
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Have you done anything to the car or replaced/disconnected the battery?

Originally Posted by Mini_Chan
So I failed the NJ inspection today. A few things on the system said "Not Ready". I have the Fuel System, Comprehensive Component, Catalytic Converters, Evaporative System, and Oxygen Sensors. I have no check engine lights, and when I plug in my OBD they all say active... It's been years since my car has had an inspection, I wish I had never transferred back to NJ

any work done to the car? Battery disconnected?
 
  #30  
Old 06-02-2017, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffo Wageman
any work done to the car? Battery disconnected?
The last time I did any work was back in April, when my alternator died on me. I had to jump the car, then changed my crank pulley, alternator, and spark plugs. Before I went to inspection I did clear my O2 sensor code as well.
 
  #31  
Old 06-02-2017, 10:39 PM
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From april, that should be enough time to get a drive cycle. When you scan, there are no codes and no pending codes? I had a pending code for coolant and the new thermostat was no good. Once that was changed I had a drive cycle in 5 miles.
 
  #32  
Old 06-03-2017, 11:10 PM
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The only code I had was for the o2 sensor after the cat. I cleared it and took it to the dmv. The other stuff showing "not ready", I can't explain. I'm just assuming I need to drive the car for a longer period of time, but I'm not sure what is considered a drive cycle.
 
  #33  
Old 06-04-2017, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeffo Wageman
I know this thread is really old but here is my saga. I changed all hoses, t-stat and coolant in 7/16 and took to inspection in Aug of same year. I failed because CCM was not ready. They asked me if I had any work done to it and I said that I replaced the hoses, thermostat and coolant. They asked if I disconnected the battery and I said yes that I removed it and the battery box to make it easier to get to the t-stat housing. They said I need a drive cycle. I drove the car 4 thousand miles and couldn't get a drive cycle. I disconnected the battery a few time during the 7 months I was driving it trying to get the drive cycle. I also checked all the fuses inside and outside. I held the plus and minus cables together to drain any voltage in the car 2 times. I finally took it to a shop where they do a lot of inspections and he had it for a few days to try and get a drive cycle. 3 days later I get a call that it is fixed. It was a bad thermostat. The gauge inside the car when to that same spot it always did so I figured everything was fine. He told me that the coolant temp in the engine was not getting hot enough. After replacing it he got a drive cycle in 20 miles. New doesn’t mean good I guess.
Wow! Thanks for sharing. Learn something new today of how the emission control software uses the engine coolant temperature as one of the parameters to establish a new drive cycle. What brand thermostat was that?
 
  #34  
Old 07-15-2021, 06:25 AM
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CCM not ready and coolant temperature?

This is an old thread but I'm dealing with the same issue. I need emissions to renew my registration but my CCM is not resetting. I had code P0340 so I replaced the Camshaft Position and Crankshaft Position Sensors, cleared the codesa and reset the ECU, driven 350 miles repeating the drive cycle procedures but the CCM is still not ready. After reading the info about the engine temperature my scanner is seeing the coolant temeprature running at 185° but the OEM thermostats should be 195° (90.5 C). I'll change out the thermostat and report back. I live in Virginia. The "CCM not ready" is not a state specific computer problem but a parameter set in the cars ECM.
 

Last edited by dingels75@msn.com; 07-23-2021 at 05:26 PM.
  #35  
Old 07-23-2021, 05:11 PM
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CCM resolved with new thermostat

Another CCM issue resolved by replacing the thermostat. After reading this old post I put my scanner on live data and found that my coolant temperature was fluctuating between 184 and 191. The correct thermostat for an R53 is 90.5 Celsius or 195 degrees. Put in a new thermostat and it shot up to 195-199. A handful of drive cycles and the CCM cleared. I had driven the car 450 miles with the lower temp thermostat without the CCM clearing. The old thermostat was 90.5 but apparently wasn't operating correctly. Thank you guys!
 
The following 2 users liked this post by dingels75@msn.com:
00Mini (07-23-2021), ssoliman (07-24-2021)
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