P0300 - Cylinder Misfire Detected - What should I do?
P0300 - Cylinder Misfire Detected - What should I do?
I just got a 2008 MCS this week and yesterday the yellow outlined engine light came on and has stayed on. I went to AutoZone and they said I had code P0300 - Cylinder Misfire Detected.
They said I most likely need a tune up and this could be because of spark plugs, coils, ignition wires, injector, or high/low fuel pressure. I am not close to a mini dealer so I am trying to figure out the best method for trying to fix this.
The car seems to drive fine, but I haven't had the car long to really know if it is not the way it should be.
Any advice on what I should try to do myself before making a 200+ mile drive to a mini dealer???
On a side note. I have a couple days that I could sign up for an extended warranty for something like $1500. After reading a lot of the check engine lights stories, I am starting to thing I should have added this on...
They said I most likely need a tune up and this could be because of spark plugs, coils, ignition wires, injector, or high/low fuel pressure. I am not close to a mini dealer so I am trying to figure out the best method for trying to fix this.
The car seems to drive fine, but I haven't had the car long to really know if it is not the way it should be.
Any advice on what I should try to do myself before making a 200+ mile drive to a mini dealer???
On a side note. I have a couple days that I could sign up for an extended warranty for something like $1500. After reading a lot of the check engine lights stories, I am starting to thing I should have added this on...
Last edited by TSur; Jan 15, 2012 at 12:27 PM.
What type of service history (specifically) has been done to the vehicle?
A some trip in the ignition system can set off a fault code.
Since the fault was a generic misfire and not specifically mated to one or more cylinders, you'll need to do some digging.
Also, make sure you're using proper premium fuel, and verify all ignition electrical connections are spot-on.
* http://www.bavariantechnic.com/
If you read the "what's covered" section that the extended warranty spells out, there are significant holes that don't cover larger required service items.
And the warranty can be overlooked if owner negligence comes into play.
- Erik
I'm not sure why, but sometimes it lets me reply other times it says waiting for moderation... So I will try this yet again because this is bugging me a lot.
First off THANK YOU very much for your help!
How do you clear a code? I know how to see it now on the OBD (error 031) but not clear it. I thought a tool was required to reset the codes.
So onto the tool you recommended. I ordered a wi-fi ODBII reader to work with the iPhone/iPad and plan on using the app REV. It says it can read and reset codes. (I am an app developer myself and this is why I chose this. I may even play around with development with the wi-fi ODBII in the future.)
My car has 64k miles on it. The last reports via carfax check show at about 24k 6/5/09 that the Timing chain tensioner/guide replaced. The last report was on 01/21/2010:
Cabin air filter replaced
Maintenance inspection completed
Recommended maintenance performed
Brake fluid flushed/changed
Front brake pads replaced
I do not think it is driving any different with the CEL on. I haven't really driven it much since I got it because of snow and having summer tires on it. It was in the 50s when I got it and drove it back and it dropped to 20 and has snowed the past few days. This light came on yesterday on my trip to have all season tires put on the thing...
First off THANK YOU very much for your help!
How do you clear a code? I know how to see it now on the OBD (error 031) but not clear it. I thought a tool was required to reset the codes.
So onto the tool you recommended. I ordered a wi-fi ODBII reader to work with the iPhone/iPad and plan on using the app REV. It says it can read and reset codes. (I am an app developer myself and this is why I chose this. I may even play around with development with the wi-fi ODBII in the future.)
My car has 64k miles on it. The last reports via carfax check show at about 24k 6/5/09 that the Timing chain tensioner/guide replaced. The last report was on 01/21/2010:
Cabin air filter replaced
Maintenance inspection completed
Recommended maintenance performed
Brake fluid flushed/changed
Front brake pads replaced
I do not think it is driving any different with the CEL on. I haven't really driven it much since I got it because of snow and having summer tires on it. It was in the 50s when I got it and drove it back and it dropped to 20 and has snowed the past few days. This light came on yesterday on my trip to have all season tires put on the thing...
Suggestion....
If you live in a area that does not have a competent mini specialist and you will be using the dealer for repairs, the $1500 will seem pretty cheap considering what dealers charge.
If you have a good independant repair shop....you may co.e out ahead, no warrenty.
Since reparing a misfire mst involve major engine work....the warrenty may be good piece of mind.
If you live in a area that does not have a competent mini specialist and you will be using the dealer for repairs, the $1500 will seem pretty cheap considering what dealers charge.
If you have a good independant repair shop....you may co.e out ahead, no warrenty.
Since reparing a misfire mst involve major engine work....the warrenty may be good piece of mind.
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As for the code go back to Auto Zone and have it cleared. See if it comes back. These random codes can sometimes show up and then never come back.
One thing you might want to do is a Seafoam Treatment. This car although what you think is driving well may have some carbon build up. You can read about the carbon build up and seafoam treatment here on NAM there are a lot of threads on these subjects. Carbon build up can cause miss fires.
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It could be any thing from a bad spark plug, coil, spark plug wire to low compression in that cylinder (burnt valve etc). Clear the code and see if it comes back. If it does start with the simple/cheaper stuff like replacing the plug in that cylinder etc.
Well that was my 4th time trying to reply to the message so I made a mistake. It said "Timing chain tensioner/guide replaced." I just said belt because well I assumed belt... I have only had the car for 5 days, so sorry about the mistake.
I went to AutoZone and they said they are "not allowed to reset codes." So I will wait until I get my code reader tomorrow.
I was going to change my plugs but it looks like I need a 14mm 12 point socket with a thin wall. Of course AutoZone does not have this and they didn't have any of the OEM spark plugs.
So that has left me with only being able to try doing a seafoam treatment. Not a good start to my Mini Cooper experience. Starting to think I made a mistake on getting this car.
So you are telling me that even though BMW owns Mini, they are not allowed to even change the plugs and coils in a mini cooper if they don't have a mini dealership attached???
This again is starting to make me 2nd guess my choice in this car. I just moved to the Davenport, IA (quad cities) from the Chicago Burbs. So the closest mini dealer is back in the Chicago area over 100 miles away. I do not know of anyone in this area that works on Minis...
PS - what do I need to do so I stop getting the "This message needs to be approved by a moderator" after I try to replay to something more then 1 time per day???
I went to AutoZone and they said they are "not allowed to reset codes." So I will wait until I get my code reader tomorrow.
I was going to change my plugs but it looks like I need a 14mm 12 point socket with a thin wall. Of course AutoZone does not have this and they didn't have any of the OEM spark plugs.
So that has left me with only being able to try doing a seafoam treatment. Not a good start to my Mini Cooper experience. Starting to think I made a mistake on getting this car.

This again is starting to make me 2nd guess my choice in this car. I just moved to the Davenport, IA (quad cities) from the Chicago Burbs. So the closest mini dealer is back in the Chicago area over 100 miles away. I do not know of anyone in this area that works on Minis...
PS - what do I need to do so I stop getting the "This message needs to be approved by a moderator" after I try to replay to something more then 1 time per day???
Last edited by TSur; Jan 16, 2012 at 09:11 AM.
If the car is running fine now, I wouldn't abandon ship just yet. Some of those codes go away and never return. Just out of curiosity, did you buy your MINI under the CPO/Next program or from a third party? If CPO, you're probably only on the hook for a $50 fee (and a 140 mile drive). If not a CPO car, it's possible there's an underlying problem that the previous owner had (hate to say it). There are many cases where people clear a code and trade the car in :( before it comes back.
Seafoam has it's uses, but never "my" first choice.
http://www.bimmershops.com/
http://www.bimrs.org/
If no independent BMW shop can help you directly, one of them might be able to point you toward an independent MINI mechanic in your area.
I think there are some regional forums somewhere on NAM, so you might post in the one nearest to your location and see if anyone can make a suggestion/recommendation for an independent MINI mechanic in/around Davenport.
The car was bought a used car dealer, but not a mini dealer and it wasn't part of the "Mini Next" program. When I bought it though I was given an option to buy an extended warranty and have until tomorrow to do this (or so I was told.) I guess that is why I am wanting to figure this out ASAP if it is minor or major...
I think it is minor because the car seems to run the same as when I bought it. I haven't really been driving it hard or anything since this happened in fear of this turning into something bad, but it doesn't lack power or anything.
I REALLY hope it was not the "clear a code" before trade in issue to hide something. That would really really suck... There are crappy people in this world so I guess that is always a possibility.
As timfitz63 said myabe you can find a private BMW shop that will work on it for you. Of if you cant fine one of those maybe one of the BMW Techs can help you out off the clock.
This again is starting to make me 2nd guess my choice in this car. I just moved to the Davenport, IA (quad cities) from the Chicago Burbs. So the closest mini dealer is back in the Chicago area over 100 miles away. I do not know of anyone in this area that works on Minis...
And check this website out they are very close by to you.
http://www.aceautobett.com/vehicles-...=Mini%20Cooper
It should have ended after I think 5 posts but maybe they changed it to 10 posts.
And check this website out they are very close by to you.
http://www.aceautobett.com/vehicles-...=Mini%20Cooper
And check this website out they are very close by to you.
http://www.aceautobett.com/vehicles-...=Mini%20Cooper
I checked that site and it looks like they just name all of the cars for searching reasons. So I doubt they are really a "Mini" repair place other then it is a car and they work on cars.
I did the a seafoam treatment I only used about 1/5 of the bottle and that seemed to work fine. It was my first time doing this so I was a bit nervous about it so I didn't use that much. I drove it on around and it was as good or better then before. Once again I haven't had many days of driving it to really compare anything. I have an auto and it worked well in sports mode and with paddle shifting. I may do another seafoam treatment tomorrow with a bit more now that I know how to do it. I will update you guys tomorrow when I get my code reader and can clear them myself. If they do come back I will change the plugs and see how that goes. The CEL just freaks me out and makes me drive like a granny. Thanks everyone for your input and help.
Last edited by TSur; Jan 16, 2012 at 04:45 PM.
The seafoam works as opposed to bg44k (the reguar pour it in you fuel version) or gasoline addatives on the mini fue to the direct injection...the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber....
This means the intake and the valves NEVER get exposed to the cleaning agents added to fuel...this also means the intake path and intake valves get coveted in pcv gunk (mostly vaporized and recondensing oils)....and this stuff gets deposited, and baked ok..
Turns to carbon...builds up....
The seafom is the most accessable consumer way to help clean this buildup....
This means the intake and the valves NEVER get exposed to the cleaning agents added to fuel...this also means the intake path and intake valves get coveted in pcv gunk (mostly vaporized and recondensing oils)....and this stuff gets deposited, and baked ok..
Turns to carbon...builds up....
The seafom is the most accessable consumer way to help clean this buildup....
Last edited by ZippyNH; Jan 17, 2012 at 07:00 AM.
I used the BG 44K in my Honda Element with excellent results.
Here's BG's Direct Injector Cleaner:
BG Gasoline Direct Injection Cleaner (Part 1 and 2)
BG Gasoline Direct Injection Cleaner is a two-part chemical process formulated to quickly soften and disperse baked-on deposits which accumulate on the intake valves of direct-injected engines.
Part No. 271 11 oz. (325 mL) can
Part No. 272 16 oz. (473 mL) bottle
And here are their products put to the test, including the Direct Injector Cleaner:
"For the final shebang, we performed a complete Gasoline Direct Injection Service and added BG MOA® to the engine. A full BG treatment gave the Fuel Test Car a total of 8.2 gain in horsepower and a whopping 20 ft. lb. gain in torque!"
http://www.bgfueltest.com/?p=238
Happy motoring!
Here's BG's Direct Injector Cleaner:
BG Gasoline Direct Injection Cleaner (Part 1 and 2)
BG Gasoline Direct Injection Cleaner is a two-part chemical process formulated to quickly soften and disperse baked-on deposits which accumulate on the intake valves of direct-injected engines.
Part No. 271 11 oz. (325 mL) can
Part No. 272 16 oz. (473 mL) bottle
And here are their products put to the test, including the Direct Injector Cleaner:
"For the final shebang, we performed a complete Gasoline Direct Injection Service and added BG MOA® to the engine. A full BG treatment gave the Fuel Test Car a total of 8.2 gain in horsepower and a whopping 20 ft. lb. gain in torque!"
http://www.bgfueltest.com/?p=238
Happy motoring!
I also wanted to point out that most low end readers can't clear an emission code that is tossed. Don't be surprised if what you ordered can't do it.
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3140-Dia...=pd_sim_auto_2
This is the one that I got which can handle the emission codes.
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3140-Dia...=pd_sim_auto_2
This is the one that I got which can handle the emission codes.
I also wanted to point out that most low end readers can't clear an emission code that is tossed. Don't be surprised if what you ordered can't do it.
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3140-Dia...=pd_sim_auto_2
This is the one that I got which can handle the emission codes.
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3140-Dia...=pd_sim_auto_2
This is the one that I got which can handle the emission codes.
I also got the craven speed mount so now with the REV app and this adaptor I also got some cool gauge options like boost. So I have that mounted now and it looks sick! If I wasn't using my iPhone I would have taken a picture of it mounted. As long as the CEL doesn't return I will be a happy mini owner!
Last edited by TSur; Jan 17, 2012 at 05:41 PM.


