Hey there...first week with the car ('08 CPO Cooper). I have an appointment to get my windows tinted tomorrow and was reading some threads about the windows -- how they drop 1/4" when opening and closing and noticed my windows don't do that. I found some advice about hitting the up button when the windows are closed to "reset" the system and tried that, so I started playing with the windows (it's chilly here so I haven't opened them at all since I had the car).

Anyhow, the driver's side window rolls up and when it reaches the top, it starts going down again, about 6". The window opens fully, but when I try to close it, it goes all the way up, then down again. I'm thinking the pinch protection is kicking in and the window is reopening. It's not a broken window regulator (I know what that's like). I can only get the window to fully close by opening the door and incrementally tapping the window up button.

So here's my question -- should I cancel my tint appointment? I'm afraid if I get the windows tinted, the dealer will blame the tinter for the window malfunction or when they look at the window problem, they'll scratch the tint. I guess the best thing to do is cancel the tinting and get the window fixed first . Anyone familiar with this type of problem and know what was involved with the fix?

Thanks.

 

I'm having the same problem with my '09 Clubman's windows. Try to close them and they go up and start to come back down.

 

Even thought it really doesn't matter, it is probably best to cancel the tint appointment and get the windows fixed first.

For the windows that open themselves to the half way down position you need to get the car's vehicle software updated at the dealer (or a competent BMW shop with recent version ISTA/P).

This is a well known issue and is corrected by software in the FRM module. MINI does have a service bulletin on this issue (and can be found in this forum, I have posted it a few times). Updating the car takes 4+ hours at the dealer. And they will do this under warranty.

 

This is a common problem and if the manual reset does not work the car needs be reprogramed.

Manual reset is as follows.

1. Hold window switch down and continue to hold for 10 seconds after windows is fully down.
2. Hold window switch up and continue to hold for 10 seconds after windows is fully up.
3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 one more time.

If this does not work the car has lost its memory for the windows and needs to be reset. This can be done by a dealer reprograming (approximately 2-4 hours depending on your car) or can be done with a computer, cable and the correct software. There are threads on how to do this in the Modifications>Electrical section but be ware if you screw one thing up in doing this your car could be toast and that could be a real expensive fix at the dealer.

To the OP if you car is a CPO car then the dealer should reprogram it for free. It should really have been checked before it was sold to you as this is a VERY common problem.

 

Had the same issue on my 2008 R56... dealer re-flash fixed it.

Definitely get it fixed before going the tint route. Would be annoying if the windows go crazy the first couple days and ruin your tint job.

 

Thanks everyone for the quick response. I will definitely cancel the tint for now. I just went out to the car at lunchtime and tried all of the manual reset procedures. Nada. At one point the window was in the half-down position and became totally non-functional, which is a real problem as it's COLD here and the sky looks like rain. I took a deep breath, shut the car off, waiting a few minutes and then started it up. The window came back to life, but still does the same thing as earlier: goes all the way down with one-touch, but reversing goes all the way up and then half way down. The only way to get it to go up and stay up is to open the door (which apparently disables one-touch) and tap tap tap the button until it goes to (or near) the top, then close the door. Bummer. I've always had good luck with other CPO cars (BMW, Audi), so hopefully this is a software gremlin that can be fixed with a reflash and not a harbinger of things to come...

 

The window is going down half-way due to the high resistance of lifting the window against the rubber seals.
The control module thinks there's a object in the way and it actives the pinch protection (roll down).
Clean and lube the window seals with a dry spray lubricant to avoid future hassles.

I've had the same and cleaning / lubing has worked out well.

- Erik

 

I thought about that, but the window does the same dang thing with the door open. With a frameless door, what would be binding the window?

 

Maybe he's referring to the door seals, rather than the frame seals?

 

No, in this case it is most likely not. The hall sensor in the window motor gives revolution counts to the FRM (footwell module), but in earlier software versions the footwell module looses track of that count causing the window half-open bounce, third symptom in the list.

I went to the dealer three or four times for this issue in 2009!



SI M51 01 08
Body Equipment October 2009
Technical Service

Load Graphics
This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI M51 01 08 dated September 2009.
designates changes to this revision
SUBJECT
Window Control Function Inactive

MODEL
R55 (Cooper Clubman, Cooper S Clubman) produced from 12/2007 up to 4/2009
R56 (Cooper, Cooper S) produced from 12/2007 up to 4/2009

SITUATION
One or more of the following conditions may be present:
The one-touch open or close feature is inoperative.
The windows open automatically immediately after closing (anti-trap activation).
The window motor does not respond when the window switch is pressed briefly.
Fault codes 9CC7 or 9CC8 (power window Hall sensor faulty) are stored in the Footwell Module (FRM).
The window initialization check control message is displayed.
CAUSE
Initialization is lost and/or anti-trap protection is triggered unnecessarily, due to the sensitivity of the FRM software and the way in which it resets the Hall sensor counter on the window motor.
Typically, numerous operations of the window, without the window being fully opened, will trigger this loss of initialization. This is due to the fact that the Hall sensor counter is not being reset on a regular basis.
CORRECTION
A software solution is available.
The FRM no longer needs to be replaced for this situation.
PROCEDURE
Connect the vehicle to ISTA and conduct a vehicle test.
If fault codes 9CC8 and/or 9CC7 are present in the FRM, continue to step 3. If these faults are not present, continue to step 7.
Inspect both the left and right side A-pillar connectors for signs of corrosion. If any corrosion is present, continue to step 4. If no corrosion is present, continue to step 7.
Replace all corroded pins on the body side of the connector. If the door side of the connector is also corroded, the door harness should be replaced.
[SX6102029.JPG]
Apply dielectric grease to the pin side of the connector.

[SX6102028.JPG]
Apply dielectric grease to the terminals (2), and between the wires (1) where they enter the connector on the terminal side of the connector.

Program the vehicle using ISTA/P 2.35.1 or later.
Note that ISTA/P will automatically reprogram and code all programmable control modules that do not have the latest software.
For information on programming and coding with ISTA/P, refer to Centernet / Aftersales Portal / Service / Workshop Technology / Vehicle Programming.
Reinitialize the power windows via the initialization test plan in ISTA D2.13.0 or later. This test plan may be found under Service Functions/Body/Locking and Security/Power Windows/Initialize Power Window.
At the completion of the initialization test plan, if "Unknown variant of control unit" is displayed, it should be ignored. It does not indicate a failure of the initialization.
As an alternative, the windows may be initialized manually, using the following procedure:
Note: This procedure replaces that in Repair Instruction 67 62..., which will be updated. The procedure shown in the repair manual is for vehicles without the one-touch window control.
Close the window and door fully.
Lower the window by holding the switch in the "down" position. Continue to hold the switch down for at least 5 seconds after the window has been fully lowered.
Raise the window by holding the switch in the "fully up" position. Continue to hold the switch in the up position for at least 5 seconds after the window has been fully raised.
Repeat steps 1 to 3 for the window on the other side.



_______


SI M51 02 08
Body Equipment February 2009
Technical Service

This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI M51 02 08 dated April 2008.
designates changes to this revision
SUBJECT
One-Touch Window Function Inactive After FRM Replacement

MODEL
R55 (Cooper Clubman, Cooper S Clubman)
R56 (Cooper, Cooper S)

SITUATION
After replacement of the FRM (Footwell Module) or after vehicle programming, the one-touch window control and anti-trap function on the front side windows is inactive.
CAUSE
FRM/power window regulator
PROCEDURE
Do not replace any parts.
Reinitialize the power windows via the initialization test plan in ISTA. This test plan may be found under Service Functions/Body/Locking and Security/Power Windows/Initialize Power Window.
As an alternative, the windows may be initialized manually, using the following procedure:
Note: This procedure replaces that in repair instruction 67 62..., which will be updated. The procedure shown in the repair manual is for vehicles without the one-touch window control.
Close the window and door fully.
Lower the window by holding the switch in the "down" position. Continue to hold the switch down for at least 5 seconds after the window has been fully lowered.
Raise the window by holding the switch in the "fully up" position. Continue to hold the switch in the up position for at least 5 seconds after the window has been fully raised.
Repeat steps 1 to 3 for the window on the other side.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of the MINI New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
Defect Code
61 35 05 15 00

Main Work*

Labor Operation:
61 00 830
Initializing power windows and sunroof (together

Labor Allowance:
Refer to KSD
with programming control modules)

*Main Work:
Use this labor operation number when this is the only repair being performed, or if this is the main repair when performed along with other repairs at the same time. If this is not the main repair, refer to KSD for the associated (+) labor operation code.

[ MINI, a division of BMW of North America, LLC
Copyright © 2009 BMW of North America, LLC ]

 

StrobeyProbey, thank you very much for posting the TSB info -- I really appreciate it!

Good(ish) news for me: I sent an email to my salesman describing the problem and the issue with getting my windows tinted. He went to the service manager and explained the problem and send me an email (i.e., documentation) saying "go ahead and get your windows tinted as planned, this is a known problem with a known fix and we'll take care of it regardless of whether you get your tint done or not". That's all I could ask, but have to give the guys at Princeton MINI a pat on the back for being responsive and understanding.

 

I would think that the tint company would have to over ride that feature when they put the tint on anyway. I would assume that they would put the tint on with the door open. When the door opens and does its drop they would not be able to tint the windo fully. I had an 08 and now a 11. I had the windows and sunroofs tinted in the 11. I never asked how they did it, but you must not use the windows for 3 days I think. They are afraid the tint comes off. They had a warning taped over my window controls so I would not use them. What sucked is I was going to the shore the next day and could not open my windo to pay for tolls.

Also, it looked like crap when I picked up the car. They said it would look better when it dried. I really did not believe them, but it took about 3 days and now it looks great.

Before:



After:

 

Old thread, but this problem JUST cropped up for me after using the remote to open the windows and sunroofs (or is the plural sunrooves?), and this did the trick!

Thanks again!

 

Holy cow, Strobey, you saved my *** a trip to the dealership. So thankful for this forum and you smart fellas!

 

I started this thread awhile back because I had the same problem on my '08. Whatever module that needed fixing was finally fixed after numerous trips to the dealer. Mine was covered under warranty because this happened about 8 months after purchasing the car. Maybe you'll find more answers in here too!

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...w-problem.html

 

Thankya much!