The link above is for the N14 ( turbo ) Engine Vacuum pump. Very top. Part # 11667556919


If you have an N12 engine ( non turbo ) you will need this, just wanted to make sure your don't get the wrong pump.

Vacuum Pump Part #11667570813

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11667570813/



Thanks

 

Thank you - I had the correct part number for the N12, but definitely appreciate the double check!

 

hate to burst your bubble, but the engine is not a Mini or BMW engine. this engine is found in the Peugeot 205 RC and other models. it was built initally for hte mini but then Peugeot decided to use it in other cars. as a matter of fact, Citroen also uses the engine...

i am having noises come from my pump and will replace it with a new one before it destroys the whole engine. CZAR is correct the oil from the motor helps lube the system when running.

 

I have spent the better part of 12+ hours reading every possible thread I can find about the vacuum pump. I thought I was having the "Death Rattle" and simply watched a few too many videos from threads talking about timing chain failures... yet all of this originated from seeing drips of oil on the ground closer to the passenger side of the car.

So a quick call to BMP Designs in Tyler Texas sourced me with their timing chain repair kit with everything and at the same time I ordered the two vacuum pump o-rings. WELL... weeks later when I finally have time to dive into this, I discover a bigger issue and definitely one that needs repair immediately.

After seeing the replacement of the mechanical pump with an electric one, I feel this is by far the best route to go. However, I am wondering if an expanding freeze plug would suffice in blocking the original mounting port for the vacuum pump. I can buy for $10 a plug that will fit perfectly, expand to lock itself into place which will also block the oil passage. Any opinions on this? I can indeed get some aluminum bar, turn it on my lathe and put a bolt through it as an attachment for the mounting plate... but I am trying to make a fix that anyone could do with readily available parts.

So that turns me to the new vacuum source. Well having two 7.3L Ford Diesels, you eventually after 300K+ miles of great service will have to replace the vacuum pump that controls the HVAC motors & 4x4 if you have auto locking hubs. This is a self-contained vacuum pump with an internal vacuum switch, turns on at 13in off at 18-19in. These are designed to operate the auto locking hubs on a Ford 4x4 as well as the HVAC systems and a life design of 2000 hours running time. I have found them NEW with isolating mounts for $54.00 at the local auto parts store. Since they were produced for millions of vehicles made by both Ford & Dodge in extreme conditions of off-roading, I am certain this little pump will suffice on my MINI's road trips. Best part is that if it does fail... nearly every auto parts store in the country has them in stock!

See the pics for more details. The pump weighs less than 10oz, so including the loss of drag on the cam and the weight savings... maybe there's a boost in performance by having stable vacuum supply as well!

Any thoughts on this old thread?

 

Hello,

I just ordered the RMeuropean Pierburg vacuum pump to replace my leaking one. Did you end up doing it yourself? How was the quality of this part? Just curious as it is so much cheaper than the mini certified part.

Thanks!

 

I completely removed mine... built a block off plate and now get 2 mpg better gas mileage when cruising at fwy speeds.

I also put an Air/Oil Separator with a vacuum line and check valve with a PVC vacuum canister under the cowling. This makes a HUGE difference in better braking and an elimination of oil in the intake pipes.

The best fact... I will never worry about the vac pump failing and destroying my engine.

 

i performed the change myself. you will find that the bolts that are under the vacuum pump are difficult to get to and i had to remove the coolant line running to the turbo just to remove them. if you drop the bolts, good luck on finding them. i had to use a scope to look for the bolt in the farthest reaches of the bowls of the motor.

the whole changeout took about an hour.

 

It is a BMW engine, just not one that was wholly developed by BMW. BMW co-developed the engine with Peugeot - and yes, it's used in a wide variety of vehicles in Europe.

 

Hello everyone,


Can someone please tell me how to change my vacuum pump? I've had it at my mechanics for a while waiting for diagnosis and it looks to be the vacuum pump. I am going to do it myself but I need direction. Can someone please give me at least a brief instructions?

 

Hello everyone,


Can someone please tell me how to change my vacuum pump? I've had it at my mechanics for a while waiting for diagnosis and it looks to be the vacuum pump. I am going to do it myself but I need direction. Can someone please give me at least a brief instructions?

 

Ps. What vacuum pump would you recommend for an 2007 Mini Cooper S?

 

Curious if you did this modification and how it worked out for you.

 

R56 MINI Cooper S 2007

N14 Engines.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11667556919/




Thanks

 

Is this a time bombed ticking on N18 engines also?

 

Only if your oil is low, oil lubes the Vacuum pump. Vacuum pump failures are rare but do happen on occasion.

 

can you start the car without the vacuum pump mounteD?

I have a noise when the engine is cold and as far as I know it's the pump but I would like to confirm by starting the car without it on...

 

There is no way to run the car without the Vacuum pump mounted unless you make a way to block the opening and oil port. I have been running my MINI for over 10K miles with NO ISSUES without the Vacuum pump and I removed the Electric Vacuum Pump as it was simply not needed.

Here is my video.

 

I wouldn't recommend running the car without the pump, there is a large hole and oil will pour out of it. Although someone on YouTube plugged the hole with a fabricated piece of metal, then supplied vacuum with an electric pump. I think running without it is a bad idea.

 

+1 on no pump. Open hole. It also runs the brake booster and for part of the turbo system.

 

My idea is not to run the car without it, just to start it to check wether a noise I have is gone.

 

Isolated the noise or use a Stethoscope ,

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES2762259/

 

A while back I got half yellow engine light in tachometer. Problem was the vacuum lines became saturated with oil from pump all the way to the tank and all the lines were disconnected. The oil expanded the lines so they no longer fit. With everything disconnected I blew out the hard line in between with compressed air and I replaced the 3/8 vacuum lines at the ends, by the pump and going into the tank. I also replaced the pump/cyl head o-ring because lots of oil leaking from pump. Problem fixed. Full turbo back! Got the same light again now (about 18 months later) and checked the vacuum lines. Sure enough the line was disconnected from the pump and saturated with oil. Why is my pump sucking oil from the line going from pump to tank?

 

I had the same problem. Not sure what causes the line to become so saturated with oil. Maybe failing vacuum pump, or possibly faulty PCV? If the PCV is bad you will have to get a new valve cover, because it is integrated. I had to put a new hose on mine as well and also put a little hose clamp on it to help hold it on. I don't think it is saturated now, and hasn't been since I replaced the vacuum pump.

 

I just wanted to share an update on my MINI without the factory Vacuum pump to share that I have logged over 15,000 care-free miles with no issues NOT having a Vacuum pump. In fact... for most of this duration I have been running with the added electric aux vacuum pump that I sourced from the Cadillac CTS-V since the engine vacuum and aux vacuum reservoir I have installed has been more than sufficient.

The tapping of the intake manifold, use of multiple check-valves has been more than adequate to pull in excess of 18-in of vacuum to the brake booster which also has a one-way valve from the factory.

I have had numerous inquiries about making a few of these for others to test and I can only assume there is a market for something that would replace a part that is known to fail and when it does... has the capability to destroy the entire engine.

I can say that upon installation of this vacuum pump delete, my MPGs have gone up 2-3 in town and at least 3 MPGs on the hwy. On a recent trip from Milwaukee to Baton Rouge then to Atlanta, I was averaging 38-40 MPG in 100+ degree heat, driving in excess of 70 MPH. My previous HWY mileage would be closer to 32-33 MPGs.

 

I know it's a long shot, but considering how much time has passed, has anybody had any luck finding & replacing the internal housing gasket on the vacuum pump? I have an oil leak from the housing, and it seems a bit unnecessary to replace the whole pump because of a simple gasket.

If nobody has figured out a way to replace the internal ring, I will just purchase a new pump.