On 8/27 my car went bonkers and the below happened:

ECU would not Idle
Throttle would not respond
ABS Light on (Happened previously)
Airbag light on
Transmission would not stay shifted
Gauges not working
Random messages (Airbag, Foglights, Engine Malfunction, Mini Stop Codes, anything in the display options really)

Windows and lights were fine, front wipers were fine, no brake or steering issues either. Today my repair shop told me my Body control module was bad and this was the issue. Now correct me if I cam wrong but, lights working fine, windows working fine, and engine pissed off aren't symtoms of a BCM going bad. How can that make any sense. Yes I understand they are all CAN serial interfaces, but how can a BCM literally stop the car and almost drop the transmission?

I have no blown fuses, no lighting issues, and no power from the engine with no gauges working.

BCM just doesn't make any sense to me at all. I told them that the ECU has been not building boost, and it took it to them to FIX an ABS issue eariler this year, but they blame the BCM. Am I delusional or are they just picking things besides the ECU to replace?

I would rather have a nicely running Mini, instead of a 30 grand light show on my dash. Any ideas?

 

From what you describe your repair shop doesn't seem to really know much about BMW computer systems.

There is no BCM or ECU.

You have an FRM (for lighting and windows), CAS (for FOB interface and engine starting security, and rear windows, if equipped), EGS for the auto tranny, DME for engine management, ABS/DSC for stability/abs, ABG for airbags & tensioners, RAD for the radio module, AMP if you have Hifi/HK, CTM for convertible top, IHKA for auto AC. And there are a few others, too!

Since this probably not an easy fix, you will probably need to get a shop that can diagnose and repair BMW computer problems. Inquire if they have access to ISTA and ISTA/P. If they are a good shop they will be able to help you with the older DIS/GT1 system. If they don't have either of those, move on.

To me it sounds like you are having an issue with the DME (digital motor electronics) and/or the bus the DME runs on (it is separate from the regular CAN bus). The KOMBI (gauge cluster module) is obviously not getting information from the DME properly.

 

I think you not only solved it, you killed it. Dude it is so nice having someone who knows what the hell they are talking about on a fourm. They are suppost to be one the best import shops in IL, but I have not seen that so far.

I have also been having issues holding boost and delay building boost. They dont look DIV valve related so I have to blame the DME. I suppose it was a sign that I missed and for that I feel unaccomplished.

They reset my ABS computer a few months back, and I keep getting the clutch pressure low error for 3 weeks. I had to PAY them for fox the transmission issue they caused. Yet another issue they should conclude to a DME issue. I am going to touchbase with them. Can't thank you enough for your post! Will keep you informed!

 

But it still may not be the DME, it really could be something as simple as a bad battery or a bad ground. DME's are pretty durable in BMWs, and don't fail too often. Thus you may have wiring harness issue, like chaffing or a harness has been damaged or has corrosion causing connectivity issues.

Good luck!

 

My son's Mazda had some very similar issues - blank/dead instruments, malfunctioning A/C, occasional engine stalling, some of the lights would go out and come back on, etc. It all seemed very random and quite mysterious.

After much testing and head-scratching, we replaced the battery - suspecting a short in one or more cells, since the system was charging just fine each time we checked with my multi-meter. All seemed good - the issues went away, all was well - for about a week. Then it all started again.

The problem turned out to be an intermittently failing alternator, allowing the battery to run down and eventually die. Of course, the alternator was working well whenever we put the meter on it - but it was actually cutting in and out due to an internal fault of some kind. New alternator was the cure.

All of this is my roundabout way of agreeing with stobeyprobey's post. It could be something as simple as a bad battery, alternator or ground. That's where I'd look first anyway.

BTW - all the DME, ABG, ISTA, etc. etc. alphabet-soup of acronyms gives me a headache! Give me my '69 MGB any day - the whole car can be disassembled/reassembled with a flat screwdriver and an adjustable wrench.

__________________________________________________ ___

 

Battery is good and Alternator is good. 14.2 and 12.8. Connects are good and ground has very low resistance. They already ohmed out all the grounds and said the harness was ok. Honestly I hope the replace everything in the Damn thing. It is all under a 3rd party warrenty just in case.

 

Battery & alternator condition, ground connections/chafing wires are about the only things an average owner like me can check or correct when there's an electrical problem like this in a modern car like the MINI. Beyond those simple items, the only alternative really is to drop the car off at the dealer and allow them to do their computer magic while they reach their hands deep into my pockets and remove my money.

Good luck with it - let us all know the resolution when you find it.

__________________________________________________

 

There is an official MINI TSB on such issues and from reading is the simplest thing you can check: bad grounds (as already mentioned)! The document is SI M 61 05 07 and you can get to it from here

 

Another thing you can do with a meter is check the VCC voltage off a box. VCC has to be greater than 3.3 and usually around 5.0. It can be higher, but MUST be higher than 3.3. This is just an example of how 1 voltage standard could bring the whole car down. Now the problem with this is that it doesnt tell you WHERE the problem is, but it helps. Don't sell yourself short, meters are great tools and can be used in about a 100 different places. You can also measure resistance across sensors too.

 

For what it's worth (entirely different make & model of vehicle), I had a 1990 Grand Am that started exhibiting behavior very similar to this. The dealer (a Pontiac dealer) ran their diagnostics and recommended replacing the ECM (the GM version of the ECU -- basically, the computer). Three ECM's later, the car was still behaving in this manner. GM swore that the replacement ECM units were re-built, and they occasionally got 'bad' ones in return, so all they wanted to do was follow their diagnostic computer and re-replace the ECM. I angrily told the service manager, "Use the computer between your ears! It's statistically impossible for three consecutive ECM's to fail in the same way; there's a deeper, root cause! Find it!" Then I tossed the keys at him and told him I wouldn't be back until the car was functioning properly. About a week later, they sheepishly called me up and told me they'd traced the problem to a short in the wire junction box, which was, in turn, 'frying' the ECM. Big surprise...

So, you may be looking at a similar problem, where the real cause requires a bit more digging. I feel your pain; intermittent electrical problems are always the worst.

 

If it does it agian, my answer will be replace the harness. I am only paying my 100 dollar decuctable one...period. Thanks for the story though, I will have my guns loaded when I go there. (Figuartively, NOT literally)

 

Very good information! A bad ground point as illustrated in this document will totally cause an issue like this. Have the shop or yourself look at this specific document ASAP even if you are not having the problem at the present time.

Which also leads me to recommend pulling off the driver (probably the passenger as well) door sill trim piece and tighten the THREE separate bundles of grounds along there.

 

My car knowledge, while decent, is rudimentary compared to other posters. I just wanted to chime in that the problems described by the OP will, almost without fail, get diagnosed as a bad ground on Car Talk.

 

It is something to do with the Comptuer, because they got the car running with the BCM, but cant get the wipers, washer jets, or some other unknown stuff to work. They are still claiming up and down it is the BCM. Now it has to go to a dealer.....

 

Are they pointing out to you what they consider a "BCM" to be?? Once the Dealer gets done with it, it would be much appreciated if you would post back.

Thanks!!

 

The FRM module controls the wipers, washers, all lights, and front power windows.

 

Again, these are their words not mine.

Got the car back and it is stuck in "TRA MODE." This is a mode from the factory to Mini Dealer mode, with limp mode on.....but somehow they got around the engine limp mode and got everything but the wipers moving. I sm not sure how they did this, but I have to drive it 200 miles to a Mini Dealer because everyone else here cant do it. What pisses me the **** off is they had it for 3 weeks, lie to me about what was wrong, parked it outside, and didnt wash it when they gave it back to me. They also said there is no CELs and it runs great! Yeah, ********.... ABS CEL, TRA Mode CEL, and runs like ****. I was able to apply the Alta tune wirh my Accessport and got it running a littler better, but it needs a Mini Dealer. It is going up to Chicago Sunday for the coding, and I am going to have to go collect it at some point.....ugggg

 

INPA, DIS & ISTA all have an easy way to turn off transport mode. So the dealer should have no trouble turning that option off.