I took a couple of somewhat short trips today, less than 10 miles.
I have an Autometer electrical temperature guage, which reads about 230 degrees F. under normal driving. So today as the guage got close to about 220 F., it dropped down to 185 F. and remained there until I reached my destination, no max A/C on, no spirited driving to kick on the enhanced cooling, turned off the car, no fans running, normal shutdown.
Same thing happened on the way home about 4 hours later, so now it has me scratching my noodle.
Have a little over 12k on the clock, fluid level is normal, nothing out of whack under the hood.
Has the thermostat decided to start lying to the ECM?
At least it's not overheating. So now I am .
I wouldn't mind it operating at this temp. but it's not normal.

 

Anyone? Any ideas?

 

What's the temperature outside?
And you are complaining that the water temp got down to 185?
I'm a little lost

 

Hi 6, not really complaining, kinda happy about it, but it's just not normal. Outside temps are about 78 degrees. Normal operating temps were 230 deg. until today. Also noticed oil pressure at idle is up about 10 PSI from normal 25 PSI to now 35 PSI.
Just wondering what changed?

 

Everything is probably fine in all honesty. You pay too much attention (JK)
I wouldnt sweat it, still aren't any numbers to be worried about.

 

Two things,

1st, I'm a little suspicious of your 230 N.O.T. It should be 220+/ a couple. But, it's your gauge and that's what it reads. I'm using a scangauge2 and seeing what the ECU is seeing. The calibration for the sender may be different. But it is what it is.

The water pump and the thermostat are both controlled by the ECU. When the AC is on MAX and/or there is a heavy load on the engine, the ECU goes into max cooling mode and water temp should go down to about 185F. Since you say neither of things apply, that makes me think something is wrong, or at least not very normal... I'd call the dealer and check in.

 

Thanks guys.

 

Traditionally, low water temp is the fault of a thermostat failed to the open position, which is better than failing to the closed position which would result in overtemp. The thermostat is controlled by an integral spring and bellows assembly. If the spring fails the thermostat opens resulting in low temps. If the bellows fails the spring keeps the thermostat closed and results in overtemp.

 

Thanks SSSSSSSS. I haven't had any CEL or codes show up yet, so thats why I'm puzzled. I've also noticed that the car warms up faster now. Reluctant to take it to the dealer, they already disappointed me on my initial dealer oil change, overfilled by more than half a quart. I can change the thermostat myself if I need to. Thanks.

 

The ECU controls the opening and closing of the thermostat, which not a spring and bellows like the older cars. Read at couple of threads up for some very good info.

 

The tstat is not electronic, never seen any car that was. The ECU controls the coolong fans based on temp sensed by the ECT sender. This is what the Edge and ScanGuage units display, its what the ECU is seeing. Stant number ST14209 or Beck/Arnley 143-0785.

 

If both gauges readings are suspect, first thing you need to check is the integrity of your grounds. I have seen so many whacky problems in 28 years related to grounding issues.

 

I think I may have discovered what is going on. I have automatic climate control, and one of the last times I happened to have it in use, my wife was along. She likes to have it just a little cooler than what you might find at the south pole, in other words, she had it cranked to Max cooling, with the fan on high speed.
When we got home, I like to turn everything off, but I think the auto climate must remember where it was at the last setting. Consequently, every time I drove, the temps would almost reach what I considered normal, and then drop to about 180-185 an stay there.
The other day. unlike Texas, morning temps when I went out were in the high 50's. I turned the heater on to about 70 deg. and since then everything has been OK with the temps.
Now I'm just wondering what sustained use would do for the engine, regarding cooler running temps. I understand the higher temps provide better economy, but that is not why I bought a MINI.
Anyway, thats what I think happened. Thoughts?

 

My scangaugeII always tells me 220+/- a few, and then drops to 185*F when parked. I wouldn't worry about it, Just look out for everything 240+.

 

Interesting we just hit around the 7000mile mark , simular issue, and our thermostat had to be replaced. They did it this thursday. No problems now.

 

Hope this isn't a repeat, but I did search. I had a check engine light come on, took it to my local wrench who does BMW. Porsche & MB. He's worked on my Mini before since the electrics are BMW. He said the code was for the thermostat which he reported leaking before. He replaced it with an OEM thermostat but the code reappeared. After working on it for a few days (only billed for the thermostat install) he replaced the plug/switch for the thermostat and the check engine light is gone. At initial drive, it seemed to run fine (has the JCW flash/intake/exhaust) and then it seemed to stall around 4k rpm after 8-9 miles. When I got home, the fan continued to run for 10 min. even though the engine did not feel hot. Coolant level is fine as is the oil. Any ideas? Just ain't running right! Oh, all the recalls, etc., have been done including the water pump.

 

My CMS is doing the same. Can you feel the coolant overfill tank and sense the temperature? Mine stays cold even after an hour of spirited drive!!! replaced the TH, same results. My next move is the pump.

 

Mine is still in the shop with the same old... But I think it's in the ECU. There is a thread where this was found(https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-replaced.html). The code (check Engine) is apparently a "permanent code" that can affect several modules and clearing it from the Thermostat won't resolve the issue. It has to be clear in several and that, at least for one guy, did the trick. Every time mine is cleared, it runs ok for 5" and then refuses to rev past 4k rpm, just bogs down like a vacuum leak and then the Check Engine light comes back on. Getting really frustrating.

 

I tried something last night and i think i got a satisfying result.

after replacing the TH, I noticed the turbo not giving me that gushing sound!!! well, i popped the hood and long be hold, the vacuum line from the pump was disconnected...lol..i thought i connected it. SO, i put it back, cleared ALL codes in the car, AND reset adaptation values. Took the car for a 2 mile run and when i got home, the coolant was hot in the overfill tank...I like that