HELP!
In an effort to keep my car running in tip top shape and smoothly I decided to try "Engine Restorer" to clean up gunk and what not up in the crank case.
Also with this I was GOING TO do a seafoam treatment for intake valves but have not.

The car has 33,314 miles

I bought the 4 cylinder type

I checked my oil level before, I was half a quart low according to the dip stick (half way down dry) and added the 11 ounces which is equal to .344 of a quart. So I did not over fill.

I added it to the engine at the store and started her up and immediately she was idling very rough and got a Yellow check engine light.

I brought it to Auto zone to get the codes checked and it said it had 10 codes, although the sales associate said some were preliminary but the main ones were

-P0300 = Misfire detected - random cylinder
-P0304 = Misfire detected - cylinder 4
-P0302 = Misfire detected - cylinder 2

What the heck!?

I looked it up before hand and it was suppose to be good for the engine, It says it is safe for synthetic oils, turbo charged cars, can be added between changes

Oddly enough the car seems to run ok though while driving. It was about 8 miles back from walmart to my house and I wasn't hearing any noises or feeling anything bad.

It's just at idle

Anyone have any advice or examples of this happening?

Did I do damage to my engine?

.

 

Ususally that stuff thins the oil to try and get out any junk. It might have let some of the goo past the rings as it worked loose. Often they suggest changing the oil not soon after adding it to the crank case. It probably is doing what they designed it to do. If it is good for the car or not remains to be seen. After it is out and normal oil is in, cleaner is probably better, so just follow directions, change the oil (maybe seafoam first) then if you want, check the plugs to make sure they are within parameters, and you are probably good to go.

 

"engine restorer" was exactly. If it is what I think it is, my reaction is toward the opposite of the first response, so I guess we need more info. One type of stuff you put in oil is typically a cleaner of sorts you use shortly before an oil change. First response reads more like that. The other is more like an oil viscosity thickener, with some additives if it is the branded "Engine Restorer" (silver can, blue and maybe red printing, sold in 4, 6 and 8 cylinder quantities??).

If it is the second, my reaction is it is a coincidence, since oil thickener and then near simultaneous start up and running should have little relationship to each other. Instead, I would tend to look at whether maybe you physically disturbed something else, particularly in the intake--hose pulled loose, etc. Or, outside chance similarly something disturbed electrically. Beyond that, yes your other hunch where you already preemptively warned off posters might otherwise be valid--overfilled oil. Certainly at least check dipstick reading again.

 

Thanks for a reply,
I just went down and checked it after it has been sitting for about 30 min and I started it up and she ran ok for a little while. then the idle started to get a little lopy after a little bit. No where close to as rough as before though.

So you are suggesting that I...
-Get an oil change soon to clear out any gunk that it may have loosened.
-SeaFoam the intake valves before or after the change?
-Check the spark plugs for fouling.

Thanks

 

It is the Engine Restorer in the silver can. I'll certainly check again but I just posted something above saying that it seems to have settled down a bit when I checked 10 min ago.

I have made sure that everything is connected though. I should have mentioned that from Friday I installed the Alta panel filter and Saturday morning the BSH OCC and the JCW intake tube BUT before I put the engine restorer in everything was running perfectly and I had made sure that everything was connected and tightened down.

It was literally one min to the next in the change of the engine's behavior. Since I put those other parts on I've driven maybe 50 miles before putting the engine restore in.
But once it started I got out and checked all of the fittings and connections under the hood and everything was on and tight.

 

wow, you are certainly brave to add that into your engine, especially a turbo one. why do this when you still have warranty? I would definitely change your oil immediately before anything happens and dealer void your warranty for that.

 

Yea I've been wondering that now myself


Also I just went and triple checked everything and all the parts are on there nice and good

and my oil level is fine, I drew a blue line to show where it comes up to.

 

If you got the same Seafoam I am thinking of and not some other product they've released recently which may be different, then the process I am aware of is such:

1-1.5oz per quart of oil in the crankcase (1/3 can)
1-1.5oz per gallon of gas in the tank (should be no more than half full, perferrably less, 1/3 can)
1/3 sucked in through a vacuum tube

I'd drain that oil ASAP, personally.

 

On oil change yes. Maybe after that, check codes again. If no codes, maybe all fine. If not, maybe plug change. What I probably would not do is SeaFoam until you are comfortable you have it back in shape. That could just introduce another new variable into the mix.

I really still don't see much relationship between Engine Restorer and what you experienced. Given the recent mods you mention, I would continue to be thinking more about vacuum leaks and the like--rough running, irregular idle etc. are pointing me there. But sounds like you have been through the whole re check. Any chance something is broken though? You mention the JCW intake tube for example. I installed that too. I've done intake hoses probably hundreds of times. Yet, when I pulled it off to get to the BOV (for the Alta million dollar spring), lo and behold the seal was folded back on the rear side of the tube. Didn't seem to leak air, but it was close. And I definitely had no clue it has folded over like that when I pushed into place. That clamp is just after the MAF for example, so it is critical there are no leaks from that point all the way to the intake manifold or the air fuel mixture will be off. Specific part aside, consider running the car at idle w/ hood open, and do the old wiggle and push every single possible part in that whole intake area, plus the electrical connectors, and see if anything either acts up or calms down. Given your recent work, had I done the same I would be looking more at those mod related areas than the Engine Restorer, even if it ran right after the mods initially.

 

I've got the original formula seafoam sitting on the desk right next to me. I was going to do 3 treatments in the PVC system with the one can and do another when I got closer to changing my oil.

An update for the situation though, Its been sitting for a little while on level ground and I went and checked it and it seems to be idling normally again, if not a little smoother/quieter.
Tomorrow I am going to talk to my MA a little more and keep him posted, seeing as I am about 2500 miles away from the end of my maintenance plan I'll see if maybe he can push the oil change up sooner

 

I will give this a check, I'm sure you noticed that it wasn't as snug as the MCS hose and coupling too. So that is an area I have been checking constantly even before this happened.

Also, how is that Alta spring? worth it?

 

If you use oil coated foam filters in the R56 S, periodic cleaning of the MAF Sensor wire with electronics cleaner is a must. For some reason MINI decided against using the BOSCH Hot Wire MAF so the wire inside will eventually develope a shellac like coating on it rendering it quite useless. CEL's will follow if not done.

Typically Engine Restorer is not necessary for a car with 33K miles on it unless it was really, really abused quite badly......It sorta falls into the catagory of " Don't try to fix what ain't broke ".

 

Gotcha on the oiled foam filter, I already have a spread sheet for the mileage since I put it on Friday. Do you know a good interval to clean them?

Yea, won't be trying that stuff again, can't stand to leave things alone tho, it's kinda in my nature to tinker Always seeking some way to make thinks better.

 

Don't discount Seafoam, it's great stuff, but you shouldn't need it yet.

Check your spark plugs, btw.

 

Been there myself, sometimes learning the hardway

Maybe check it every oil change to begin with ? ( 7K miles ) adhering to Alta's recommendations relative to the amount of filter oil needed after they are cleaned.

I run the Alta JCW replacement foam filter in a R53, and their UNI oil spray seems to go a long way, working it into the foam seems to work well. R53 owners don't have the MAF wires to worry about but sucking excess oils up and into our intercoolers is probably not good either.

 

Is that an oiled filter?--I noticed that mentioned in another response.

If so maybe stray some electronics cleaner on the MAF (the no residue stuff) and let it dry, in case it picked up some oil. I'm not a fan of any of the oil based filters because of potential MAF fouling issues. Any oil on the MAF and you can be way down on HP. BTDT on an Audi--went from approx 300 to 240 HP til I changed MAF and got it back. Gave me some CEL's too. Happened over time though, not pronto.

 

Yes, some difference. I have a 2010 6 speed though. The 2010's already have the JCW level BOV so it isn't as pronounced as it might be for an earlier year where apparently the spring is incrementally weaker yet. Primary difference is during shifting where the turbo stays better spun up. I get the sense from the posts that on an auto (as I see in your sig.) it makes less sense since the turbo is spinning well given the throttle is staying open. Another possibility for you for some what more $--given potential for BOV diaphragm tears w time anyway--is either the WMW mystery valve, or just use the 2010+ stock valve that goes to JCW level anyway.

 

Update, So I got her into the dealership and they are going to look at it. I told my MA everything that I did and he agreed that it was odd that after putting the oil additive but I just decided to get the oil changed. I just sent my guy a text and he should get back to me soon.

I'll look into doing it every 5k, that should keep it nice and clean

I've heard this too but again I find it odd it happened so quickly between just working fine and then not.

I've heard of people using the BOV diaphragm from an Audi A3 because of the construction being different and better yet fitting right into our cars. But I know what you mean, it's true I don't think I lose as much boost in between shifts as a manual.

 

there is a lengthy thread w/ initial optimism on the latest "new and improved" part rev, but then it turns out it leaks on further examination. Thus trend is back to the million dollar spring or to the WMW alternative.

 

Hello Peter - I did the same thing to my BMW 745 LI and my outcome was exactly the same- I changed the oil and spark plugs and it is still misfiring. After you got in to your dealership, what was the final diagnosis?

 

I had always heard that when you use engine restore it cleans out some of the gunk in the cylinders that actually helps the rings hold pressure so now you might have gas (pressure) escaping through the newly "cleaned" rings in the cylinders. Just what I was always told...