Got my MCSa back today, sounds like a new car. Dealer replaced the whole timing chain setup same as others here. Also did the carbon cleaning and replaced a coolant temp sensor that had a leak. My timing chain measurement was 73mm, is that the record? Throttle response definitely feels better after the carbon clean.

 

Hello all,

I am horrified to read of all these issues with the timing chain tensioners on the 2007 models. I recently purchased a used 2007 Mini Cooper S (which I had thoroughly inspected by a trusted mechanic) and so far haven't noticed any peculiar timing chain rattle or issues. The car has 77,000km (47,00miles) on it at the moment and I was considering preemptively replacing the timing chain and timing chain tensioner before potential issues or damage occurs to the related components, and eventually the engine.

I have located a retailer of affordable oem parts online and would like to know if the following parts are the ones I should be ordering:
11317516088 - Timing Chain
11314609483 - Timing Chain Tensioner

Am I missing anything or looking at the wrong parts? (A chain tensioner ending in 9482 is also available, but has a length of 82mm vs the 78mm of the newer 9483 version)

Should I absolutely bring these parts to a Mini dealership for installation, or should my trusted (and experienced) mechanic likely be able to handle the fix without the need of any specialized tools?

Your opinions and advice would be much appreciated, thank you!

 

I replied to a similar thread; I don't think it was this one.

The timing belt on my 2007 MCS "backed out" (dealer's words) at 36k+ miles, just a few weeks out of warranty. It required a total rebuild at a cost of $5k+ (if a recall correctly).

MINI paid for parts, but I paid about $3k in labor. It is one reason why I will never buy another MINI product. IMO, they should have covered it.

Who worries about timing belts on cars that have less than 80k????

 

Scorpion,

Your mechanic may want to buy the special tools. You can find several vendors on Ebay. He should remove the tensioner, install the special tool, and measure the slack. If it is less than 68mm, you can use the "long" tensioner for maybe another 20K miles. If over 68mm, you should go with a full replacement of guides, chain, etc.

I'm going with an Accusump to extend the life of the system.

Hopefully, the class action law suit will ultimately be successful.

DOC

 

+1 2008 MCS 20k miles. Had tensioner replaced today at the dealership. Covered under my extended warranty.

 

+1......In the shop as I write this, I thought the engine was gone, got a quote of $2800. I am not a Happy Camper

 

My wife has an '08 Clubman justa. Is there a recall on this? Should she be worried or only if she hears a weird noise?

 

Did your car show symptoms of a bad timing chain/tensioner or did it just flat out decided to break?

 

To scorpionskins.com:

If you replace the timing chain, with which you should also replace the plastic rails, then you need tensioner 483. Tensioner 482 is ONLY if you replace the tensioner and keep the elongated timing chain. That is why tensioner 482 is not listed in any official part catalog, not even in Febi's catalog who is the manufacturer of both tensioners.

Also, altough BMW has changed the part number of the tensioners at least 3 times during the MINI's production, the actual length has remained the same. Factory cars came and still come with a 78mm tensioner while repaired cars without new chains get the 82mm version. The different part numbers are because of different suppliers and not due to a change in design.

Update:
Corrected the PNs as they should be : 482 is 82mm and 483 is 78mm.

 

No recall.

Not all weird noises are the "Death Rattle", but from what I have read here almost all of the cars that "jump time" do make weird noises before doing so.

 

Yes, I had my replace in september of this year. They 1st said it was the catalytic converter. Since I do not know anything about cars it was very disheartening that I had a problem after 2 years. They finally told me it was the timing chain and I received a bill of $1300. I am very disappointed in this car. Mini clubman.

 

2010, why wasn't it covered by warranty? Miles too high?

 

This information is the wrong way round.

483 is the 78mm one listed and readily available from BMW.
482 is the 82mm one meant for using with a stretched chain.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...24&hg=11&fg=25

 

Thanks for the correction! Mixed them up! :p

 

I just bought my 2nd Cooper S (2006) with 14k miles. My mechanic tells me NOT to buy 2007 forward due to Turbo problems and timing chain issues. Is this something BMW is going to fix in their design? I want to be able to graduate to the next grade in 90k miles or so

 

You mean you bought the older R53 car? Truth be told, the older car had a much simpler engine with SOHC arrangemenet, fixed valve timing and MP injection. So it should be more reliable...

But then again, that engine is significantly less efficient than the newer N-series both from a fuel consumption and performance perspective.

 

Well .. round 3 for me. I had the cold start rattle around 55k on my 07 MCS. Dealer repaired at no cost to me. About 6 months ago the noise was back. This time the Noise was followed by my warning lights going off like a Christmas tree. Thankfully, this time the TB cover somehow was shredded, hence the noise but everything diagnosed ok. Cost me about $200 which was alot less than I thought. 6 months later (about 7k miles since the Cover was replaced) the car starts making the Cold start noise again. Wife was driving the car, oil light comes on cars sounds like #$#$. This time when she pulled over oil was already leaking. It's been towed to Mini of Monmouth and I'm petrified of what they're going to find. I would think that all these problems are related to the faulty tensioner and TB issues reported all over NAM. I'll update the thread once i get a diagnosis.

 

Thanks, I have the last Super Charger model, thereafter they went Turbo. My mech says that 2007 onward to 2012 are having severe problems with the Turbo's (tensioners and water pumps), why hasn't BMW addressed this?

 

+1 '07 Cooper S. still at the dealership. 2 months ago they replaced the fuel pump under "factory warranty" at 70,000 miles. they said the fuel pump is covered up to 100,000 miles. that seemed to fix the cold start issue but then 4000 miles later it lost engine power and threw a code. got the timing chain and tensioner replaced under extended warranty, but only after two weeks of fighting with the warranty company. picked up car at dealership, pulled out of lot and car still had no power and tripped the light again. now they are telling me that they downloaded a new program to the computer and it corrected the power issue, but now the park lights are stuck on and will not go off. they are telling me it has a bad light module that just happened to go bad when they downloaded the new program and they want $800 to fix it because it is not covered by the extended warranty.

 

Is this also a problem on 2010 models? I've seen a lot of posts on previous models mainly from 2007 and 2008.

How do you know when this is an issue? Is there a certain noise or notice in driving performance that is really noticable. I just picked up my 2010 MCS 3 weeks ago with 28,000 miles. It seems fine. Should I just take it to BMW and tell them to do this while it is still under warranty?

Tom

 

You can't just ask the dealer to handle it. This is a known problem but not a recall. You have to have symptoms like the cold start rattle and then they may look at it.

Dealer diags the tensioner by measurement per TSB. If your chain is out of spec then maybe it is covered by warranty. If it is at spec they may tell you no.

 

I think one to help is to keep complaining and make sure your complaint is documented in the maint history on your key at least three times. There are a few people who say I change my oil every 10,000 miles and I am at 90,000 on my orig chain. And they never had the issue... there seams to be a bigger pile of people(more vocal) in between 7000-70,000 miles.

If the timing chain and guides are replaced is the chain a manufactured to different tolerances? As in when you replace the whole assembly did they update the chain with a better part? or would you just be starting back at square one?

 

Probably same chain, better tensioner that just takes you back to square one. Mine was changed at 23k and was so quiet and smooth after the change. Now at 31k it's getting louder again, won't be surprised if I'll need another change in about 10k miles.

 

i was reading and someone said "if you change to a longer tensioner might it create premature wear on guides and chain if you dont need it? ..





the TSB states " do not use 11 31 7 607 551 (tensioner) with new chain.



If distance (A) is less than 68mm (and the noise can be reproduced only between 1,600-1,800 rpm), then only replace the chain tensioner with P/N 11 31 7 607 551 (refer to parts list A), as per Repair Instruction REP 11 31 090 (Installing and removing/replacing chain tensioner piston N14
When getting "the works" new chain and etc use this "11 31 7 597 895 " tensioner.
through my horrible rusty bolean logic i assume 11 31 7 607 551 is actually longer then 11 31 7 597 895 . And 11 31 7 597 895 will be what you find on cars 2011 on up N14's and cars where everything was changed. And if your car isn't rattling or showing any symptoms the 895 would still be a nice gesture(may give you some additional time)

 

2010 MCS with 49k miles with no issues still.