+1 2007 MCSa

Brought it in for CEL. Dealer said misfires on all cylinders, looks like timing had slipped.
Out of warranty at 62,000 miles, but fixed everything for free with "goodwill' authorization from BNW/Mini, including timing chain (was stretched to 72 mm), tensioner, guides (worn), etc. Also cleaned carbon junk off valves, injectors. Did SI M11 02 07 and SI M12 02 10. Feels like a new car.

 

+1 2007 MCS
Had this repair done last January. Car is actually back in right now (it is sounding exactly the same as before the replacement).

 

+1 2007 mcs

 

I have a MC 07. Just found out that I need a new engine. Estimate around $9,000. The timing chain snapped causing internal damage to the motor. From reading the threads, this seems to be an issue with the S model. But my MINI is not an S.

Advise or suggestions are appreciated.

 

How many miles? Oil change frequency? Original owner? Auto or manual? Any strange noises before the failure?

 

Approx 85K miles
Oil Change made frequently on regular basis
2nd Owner, from family
Automatic with paddle shifters
No strange Noise before breakdown

Dealership mechanic says that this is particularly seen in S models with higher torque, but rarely seen in NoN S Models. Car is only 5 years old but past the 50K warranty. Only suggestion from dealership is a new motor or to refurbish existing one, which is are both costing around $10K. Unreal.

 

All, this may or may not go anywhere but I think its high past time that someone puts BMWs *** to the fire and get some action on this chain issue. So in this spirit, I have contacted www.topclassactions.com, a law firm website that is currently suing BMW for their poorly constructed CVT trannies in the 1st Gen cars. What I sent them is as follows:

Between 2007 and present, the BMW group - MINI has produced a 4 cylinder engine with known timing chain issues. These have suffered failures in as little as 12K miles when a system such as this should be reliable for 150K to 200K miles. Dealers have been picking and choosing, at their and BMWs discretion, whos engines will be repaired for free or at reduced charge, or no repair allowance at all. The street price for this repair is about $1700 if caught in time, or over $7K if the engine is mostly destroyed because of catastophic valve train failure. BMW refuses to issue a recall on this issue and is not treating customers evenly or fairly. My personal 2008 Clubman S was repaired under warranty at 38K and now has 81.5K and is getting noisy again.

I will post again if I actually do hear from them and they say that there is any possibility or merit to this potential action. Mine was serviced at 38K and I think its getting noisy again and I'll be daggon'd if Im going to shell out $1700 w/o a fight, given how many other posts are already on here about the same crappy parts. Here's 2 fingers crossed.

 

can someone tell me if this is a timing chain issue on my 2012 JCW or a wastegate rattle?

the noise goes away after a few minutes of driving. its more pronounced from the passenger side

 

After 18,000 miles, I think it is time to give up. The start-up noise is back. I just don't understand how a car company can think this is acceptable in their quality standards. I can probably take it back to the dealer two hours away, but it's just not worth it. I will take my loses and unload this little car. I hope it goes to a person who will be able to pay all the extras that mini is not willing to take care of.

I really appreciate those who have posted information about the problems these cars have and the fixes for them. I just don't feel comfortable with it. After last Thursday, with my wife getting hit by a firehose slinging around from a firetruck, the thought of her getting hurt in this car scared me. The nail in the coffin so to speak.

Cheers,
HEEP

 

imo, it is not the timing chain death rattle.

Kind of hard to hear the squeak, but if it is more on the passenger side that is where the serpentine belt is located and any of the items the belt is driving.

 

thanks for the reply. do you think i should still bring the car in for that noise? im assuming its not normal

 

+1 '08 MCS 49,000 miles...

 

Czech, that squeaky sound is not normal. Def not the timing chain; sounds like a belt to me too. But alas, internet diagnosing is difficult. I'd take that one in. The timing chain sounds more like marbles in a can and it increases with RPM.

 

'07 MCS. At around 60K I noticed the death rattle, but found the longer tensioner bolt on here right after the sound started. Bolt was around $20 and from reading all the '07 stories, that $20 saved me $2000. Engine has been perfect ever since, but I'm wondering if it's just going to go one day. I'm always listening for funny sounds from my Mini, but nothing yet.
I make sure the oil is always topped off, so hopefully that will help put off the T-Chain repair.

I'm curious as to what damage happens when the T-chain snaps. If it snaps I would think the whole engine would just stop. Do valves get bent? What exactly happens to require a full engine change?

 

We bought my Mini a few months ago from an owner (first owner) and it's already having some issues. The timing chain tensioner broke off and apparenly it also bended two valves. My local Mini dealer said it would cost around $4,500 for repair and we don't have that type of money. I spoke to Mini USA and they agrred to cover half of the cost for the timing chain repair which is $600 and I called once more to inform them about the two bended valves. I am running out of options and do not know what to do since I'm only 17. If we would've known that this was going to happen we would have purchased another car. Any help???

 

That sucks!

What year, how many miles on it?

 

Texas,

You don't have to guess. Get the slack measured. Up to 68mm, you are good with the long tensioner. Over, you need to replace the whole system. When the tensioner can no longer control the slack, the cam gears slip out of time, valves hit pistons, motor junk.

DOC

 

Hate to tell you, but you measurement figures are wrong in terms of allowance/tolerance for measured deflection/stretch at least in terms of what BMWNA & MINIUSA are willing to "accept". Now if we are talking personally, i completely agree with that/your figure of 68mm.

 

+1 2010 Clubman 88k miles and unhappy

 

so it turns out it was the waterpump. its being replaced.

 

Death rattle began recently on cold start, would stop after warm up. This week, engine stopped without warning. Timing chain guide had come off, made the chain jump on the sprocket. Valves bent, $4500 est to repair! Only 55,000 miles, 5 years and 3 months old. Such a sad ending to our beloved Mickey the Mini. The engines were redesigned for 2009 per dealer. So am considering a used 2009 engine, $9000 total. Am i being sentimental, or should I sell Mickey for salvage??

 

I wouldn't spend $9k on it! Do the $4500 but shop around first, bet you can find it much cheaper.

 

I find that when you are low on engine oil the rattle sound during cold starts is louder and lasts longer, after I topped up the engine oil to full I seldomly get rattle sound on cold starts and if I do get it it only lasts for 20-30sec..

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clubman S Turbo

All, this may or may not go anywhere but I think its high past time that someone puts BMWs *** to the fire and get some action on this chain issue. So in this spirit, I have contacted

I am looking for anyone who has suffered an engine failure or serious damage as a result of this timing chain issue.

I am an attorney in Knoxville, TN. My client has sued BMW over a blown engine, which we believe was caused by a timing issue - most likely the result of a timing chain failure.

He bought a new 2009 John Cooper Works Clubman with the N14 engine.

The engine blew up at 13,500 miles. BMW has denied his warranty claim.

He had the car towed to the local Mini dealer and the Mini technician found "leaking fluid around front crank seal." After removing the valve cover, he found the "exhaust rockers laying on the cylinder head." He also noted that "one of the lifters was out of bore, possibly in oil pan." He found that the "crank bolt was about 10 turns loose." He noted "valve indentations and piston head shavings." Finally, the technician noted that there was oil "leaking from the front crank seal."


BMW denied the warranty claim, alleging that my client downshifted and overrevved the engine to some 8,600 RPMs (a "money shift"). My client adamantly denies that he over-revved the engine. He said he was accelerating when the engine lost power. No service lights were ever triggered. He had complained about the car making a "loud rattling noise" upon starting it up cold. (I think we now know that he was hearing the "death rattle" caused by the timing chain issue.)


The vehicle's computer registered several fault codes, mainly relating to "super knocking" and a "cam sensor failure." The ECU data shows that the highest RPM reading was 7,300 RPMs (not 8,600 as alleged by BMW) and it occurred almost simultaneous with the engine losing power.

Has anyone else had any experience with any of these issues or conditions noted by the technician? If so, I would love to hear from you. My email is mbaisley@hdclaw.com. Thanks.

 

That´s why the tensioner fills with oil sooner.
It is VERY important to this engine to use VERY thin oil to fill the tensioner very fast and keep the level on top, always.
In fact, is the only thing we can do with this bad design timing system.