cylinder head removal HELP!!!
cylinder head removal HELP!!!
I have a 2008 cooper S with 110,000 miles on it. I changed the sparkplugs with NGK's.... after about 15000 miles the number 2 cylinder plug came apart and has damaged a exhaust valve Compression is 0 and the leak down test indicated that the exhaust valve will not close...So i need to remove the head i am looking for anyone that has done this, that may be able to give me some pointers on how the best way to remove the exhaust manifold and any other tricks....thanks in advance.
Last edited by mini cooper; Feb 22, 2011 at 03:12 PM.
Its requires special tools. I own the Koch tools and they are a spot on copy of factory set. You do not need to remove the turbo. Put vehicle in service mode(front end pulled foward), Remove the cat, release all hoses from turbo, remove front mount ,remove intake, unbolts thermostat housing from head. Once your inside the engine , simply lock crank and cams, remove timing gears,guides, and chain. Then remove head. That is the super cliff noted version, but make sure you get new cam bolts and crank bolt they are torque to yield.
service mode. remove headlamps, remove 4-13mm bolts from upper rad brace, remove 3 10mm bolts from rad brace, remove clip for washer bottle from rad support. remove hood release cable on driver side. remove trim above fog lamps,remove 4-13mm nuts and there will be holes to install long guide bolts. 6-7inch long. remove grille and remove 2-13mm nuts. remove front half of fender liner trims for access to 4-13mm bolts where lower subframe attaches to front core support. remove fender trims and release clips securing trims to bumper. after thats all done the front clip will slide forward 6-7 inches. no need to drain coolant or anything they left enough slack in hoses. walking you thru this on memory so i may have missed a few small things but those are the large points
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you might be right about the plug being burnt from something else, i am sending the plug to NGK to have it looked at, i am sure they will tell me there opinion of the plug. I still have to remove the head though because i know positively there is valve damage, i am just hoping i dont have any cylinder wall damage. all of the other plugs look fine, i guess it is possible that an injector was fouling causing a lean condition?
I have a 2008 cooper S with 110,000 miles on it. I changed the sparkplugs with NGK's.... after about 15000 miles the number 2 cylinder plug came apart and has damaged a exhaust valve Compression is 0 and the leak down test indicated that the exhaust valve will not close...So i need to remove the head i am looking for anyone that has done this, that may be able to give me some pointers on how the best way to remove the exhaust manifold and any other tricks....thanks in advance.
OMG ,110,000 in an '08.Now there's someone lovin their Mini
so.. how'd the weekend go for you? I've got my '03 R50 apart in my garage right now due to a blown head gasket (overheated due to fan failure)..
I've got pretty much everything lined up and ready to take out, exhaust is loose, intake is loose, everything else is removed except the timing chain, it's tensioner, and the head itself...
what is this KOCH tool you all are talking about? and can I get away without it?
Any pointers you've got on taking that chain off?? (even though I guess they may not apply 100% since i'm an older non-S)
Here's the thread I started the other day
Thanks!
I've got pretty much everything lined up and ready to take out, exhaust is loose, intake is loose, everything else is removed except the timing chain, it's tensioner, and the head itself...
what is this KOCH tool you all are talking about? and can I get away without it?
Any pointers you've got on taking that chain off?? (even though I guess they may not apply 100% since i'm an older non-S)
Here's the thread I started the other day
Thanks!
I am not familiar with the R50 but you cant do a proper timing without the Koch tool set on a R56, It positions the cams and puts the engine in a 90 degree position. I purchased a ported and polished head and i will be doing the install this weekend along with a water/meth injection and an oil catch can the valves were very carboned up. i have pics that i will post once this project is done
I am not familiar with the R50 but you cant do a proper timing without the Koch tool set on a R56, It positions the cams and puts the engine in a 90 degree position. I purchased a ported and polished head and i will be doing the install this weekend along with a water/meth injection and an oil catch can the valves were very carboned up. i have pics that i will post once this project is done
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