Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

MCSA - Aisin 6 Speed AUTOMATIC, failed at 80K?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 5, 2012 | 03:42 PM
  #101  
GreenR53's Avatar
GreenR53
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 206
Likes: 4
From: Indianapolis, In
Originally Posted by madmike007
Diagnosis update:

06.05.2012 - transmission shop diagnosed several problems. first the main shaft seal "came out and was riding the shaft", clutch packs burned, valve body toast, damaged gears, etc...

Recommendation:

Rebuild entire transmission.
- new valve body
- new torque converter
- new clutch pack
- new gears
- seals, etc.

Total costs = $5k

To say the least, I'm livid with MINI! This should not be happening on our cars so soon. There is an obvious problem with these transmissions and MINI doesn't want to acknowledge it.

I'll have my MINI back at the end of the week.
I would like to know were they are sourcing there parts as the Trans shops in the Indy area cant seem to be able to buy parts.
 
Reply
Old Jun 9, 2012 | 04:36 PM
  #102  
BernieCoop's Avatar
BernieCoop
3rd Gear
10 Year Member
Liked
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 168
Likes: 13
From: Loganville, GA
Originally Posted by Noir2005
Anybody try Rev Max's rebuilt valve bodies? got a quote of 659.00 plus 250.00 core, not too shabby for having Sonnax rebuild kits in it. I'm almost tempted to order one.
I checked them out and emailed them about getting a valve body for my MINI. They said that they had one in stock and seeing it was rebuilt with the Sonnax kit impressed me too. Hoping to do this soon.
 
Reply
Old Jun 10, 2012 | 08:13 PM
  #103  
a2coopers's Avatar
a2coopers
2nd Gear
15 Year Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 97
Likes: 9
I just had my Inspection II done at 95k km, asked about the condition of my transmission (6 speed auto) and they said fluid level and condition was ok, no codes reported from transmission either.

When I asked about the kicking I get from time to time, Park -> reverse slams sometimes, and 3-4th they noted was a bit harsh. Other than that they did not provide any indication of a potential failure and when I asked they said no way of knowing until it fails??!!? I just want to know what other serious symptoms aside from occasional abrupt shifts.
 

Last edited by a2coopers; Jun 10, 2012 at 08:31 PM. Reason: mistake
Reply
Old Jun 10, 2012 | 08:54 PM
  #104  
DneprDave's Avatar
DneprDave
6th Gear
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,260
Likes: 87
From: Pacific NW
Originally Posted by a2coopers
I just had my Inspection II done at 95k km, asked about the condition of my transmission (6 speed auto) and they said fluid level and condition was ok, no codes reported from transmission either.

When I asked about the kicking I get from time to time, Park -> reverse slams sometimes, and 3-4th they noted was a bit harsh. Other than that they did not provide any indication of a potential failure and when I asked they said no way of knowing until it fails??!!? I just want to know what other serious symptoms aside from occasional abrupt shifts.
Who is They

Dave
 
Reply
Old Jun 10, 2012 | 08:59 PM
  #105  
a2coopers's Avatar
a2coopers
2nd Gear
15 Year Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 97
Likes: 9
Asin 6 speed automatic

Hi

Sorry "they" are my local mini dealership that I have been taking my car to since new 2005. I've serviced my car by the book. I'm the original owner.

Thanks

Anthony
 

Last edited by a2coopers; Jun 10, 2012 at 09:03 PM. Reason: Correction
Reply
Old Jun 11, 2012 | 09:19 AM
  #106  
madmike007's Avatar
madmike007
4th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 398
Likes: 1
From: NYC
06.11.2012 - Spoke to shop owner today. He explained the problem and what happened.

Valve body toast
2nd - 3rd clutches are burnt
3rd - 4th clutches are burnt
Bushing for "toy gear shaft" popped out and was sliding along shaft

He said the cause was due to the "valve body failure".

Everything is back together. Transmission is being reprogrammed today. Hopefully I should be driving the MINI again by end of day!
 
Reply
Old Jun 11, 2012 | 04:42 PM
  #107  
Aspen's Avatar
Aspen
4th Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 424
Likes: 26
From: Kanuckistan
I had to replace the valve body at 95k km due to harsh 1-2; 2-3 shifts.. They sent mine out to BMW for a rebuild. It's all good now. Glad I had a warrantee no idea what it cost.
 
Reply
Old Jun 12, 2012 | 12:06 AM
  #108  
Noir2005's Avatar
Noir2005
3rd Gear
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 276
Likes: 1
From: Southern, NJ
I ordered from Rev Max last week. they were quick, ready to answer any questions, and apparently knew a lot about these valve bodies lol. In fact, one of the brochures they send talk about the Aisin valve bodies lol.

I got it today, and looks good. I'm replacing it next week, so I'll let you guys know how it goes. Looks like they just shove all the Sonnax repairs in it, and comes with a 2 year, unlimited mileage warranty, can't beat it!!
 
Reply
Old Jun 12, 2012 | 07:37 AM
  #109  
Aspen's Avatar
Aspen
4th Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 424
Likes: 26
From: Kanuckistan
Originally Posted by Noir2005
I ordered from Rev Max last week. they were quick, ready to answer any questions, and apparently knew a lot about these valve bodies lol. In fact, one of the brochures they send talk about the Aisin valve bodies lol.

I got it today, and looks good. I'm replacing it next week, so I'll let you guys know how it goes. Looks like they just shove all the Sonnax repairs in it, and comes with a 2 year, unlimited mileage warranty, can't beat it!!
As long as you get to this early enough before other damage is done, the new valve body should make the tranny better than new.

I am pretty happy right now. The shifts are firm and very fast. If my wife lets me have the car often enough I might be able to master the manual shifting to be nearly as good as an actual manual.

A REV MAX valve body, some new fluid of your choice, new gasket, maybe some new bolts, a few hours labour and it's good. Should be $1000-1200. Not a small amount of $$ but not the end of the world either. Would be nice if MINI offered up a warrantee like VW.
 
Reply
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 04:33 PM
  #110  
madmike007's Avatar
madmike007
4th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 398
Likes: 1
From: NYC
Originally Posted by GreenR53
I would like to know were they are sourcing there parts as the Trans shops in the Indy area cant seem to be able to buy parts.
Sorry for the delayed response. They did not say if it was from dealer or distributor, only that all my parts are OEM. No rebuilds or kits.

Update:
06.14.2012 - after reprogramming the transmission, there was still a problem with the shift from 3rd-4th. even though the visual inspection of the K2 mount (support sleeve) showed no sign of damage, they went ahead and replaced the transmission housing anyway. Problem solved.

I have only driven the MINI for a 20-30 miles and the transmission is smooth and quick. I can't believe how much power the MINI has now! Like driving a new MINI again.

Albeit a costly repair (still upset), I cannot express enough how much I missed the MINI. After driving a rental car for the past 10 days, it's an absolute pleasure driving the MINI again.

Preventative Maintenance:
I plan on having a my fluids checked and/or replaced every 15k miles. That's about every 18 months for me. At least give myself a chance at catching problems before they get worse.

Good luck to all those who are venturing down this path. These transmissions have several flaws and/or problems. Unfortunately, our transmission are expensive and difficult to work on. So, be prepared for a big repair bill when the time is up on the transmission.

I would highly recommend having your transmission inspected and repaired the first sign of any problems. It's only going to get worse, if not, more expensive. Not to mention could leave you stranded.

I don't usually recommend repair shops, but I would highly recommend Dolphin Transmissions (Canarsie, Brooklyn, NY). These guys are great! Very thorough, knowledgable, fast and fair.

btw, my transmission never threw a code. I was on borrowed time, catastrophic failure was imminent.
 
Reply
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 08:14 PM
  #111  
vgreer's Avatar
vgreer
Neutral
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I recently did a tranny flush on my 2006 MINI Cooper S R52 automatic. I purchased a new filter and pan gasket but found that one of the bolts holding the pan in place is directly above part of the frame. There is maybe .200" clearance which wouldn't even let the bolt fall out if it came loose. Is there any other way to change out the filter without pulling the engine??? Is it more important to simply flush and not so much to change the filter? I have 120K and am slipping horribly from 3rd to 4th gear.... :(
 
Reply
Old Jun 15, 2012 | 06:54 AM
  #112  
Aspen's Avatar
Aspen
4th Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 424
Likes: 26
From: Kanuckistan
Originally Posted by vgreer
I recently did a tranny flush on my 2006 MINI Cooper S R52 automatic. I purchased a new filter and pan gasket but found that one of the bolts holding the pan in place is directly above part of the frame. There is maybe .200" clearance which wouldn't even let the bolt fall out if it came loose. Is there any other way to change out the filter without pulling the engine??? Is it more important to simply flush and not so much to change the filter? I have 120K and am slipping horribly from 3rd to 4th gear.... :(
Changing the filter is not really necessary. Is is more of a screen for large chunks than a conventional filter. You will get most of your benefit from the fluid change. If it is still slipping after the change then you likely have a bigger issue like the spinning sleeve as decribed above which requires housing replacement or a fairly complicated repair of the existing housing. Time for an expert to diagnose the problem.
The 1-2/2-3 shift issue is mostly valve body related while the 3-4 issue is housing/sleve related. Changing fluid has helped some people with the former issue, but not the latter. Changing fluid didn't help me, but swapping the valve body cured it.
 
Reply
Old Jun 26, 2012 | 09:34 AM
  #113  
Noir2005's Avatar
Noir2005
3rd Gear
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 276
Likes: 1
From: Southern, NJ
So I replaced my valve body this weekend....not as hard as it looks, just a pita to get the solenoid connectors out of their slots. The car shifts high in first gear when cold, but after warmed up it shifts nicely. No harsh downshifts, or upshifts, but there is a problem. It has produced an EP code on the center gauge, so I have to go to Mini to have them check it/calibrate the valve body ,since word of mouth is that pertains to the transmission control module calibrated, to a trans failure and limp mode.....but I believe it just needs the software updated. I'll keep you guys posted on if there's any problems, however a 2 year/unlimited mile warrenty on the valve body has given me piece of mind if there is a problem :D
 
Reply
Old Jun 27, 2012 | 07:23 AM
  #114  
Aspen's Avatar
Aspen
4th Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 424
Likes: 26
From: Kanuckistan
Mine had a code after the vb fix for "clutch engagement" or something. The shop cleared the code and it never came back. Took about a week for the shifts to smooth out and is very smooth now.
 
Reply
Old Jun 28, 2012 | 03:26 PM
  #115  
GreenR53's Avatar
GreenR53
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 206
Likes: 4
From: Indianapolis, In
Originally Posted by Noir2005
So I replaced my valve body this weekend....not as hard as it looks, just a pita to get the solenoid connectors out of their slots. The car shifts high in first gear when cold, but after warmed up it shifts nicely. No harsh downshifts, or upshifts, but there is a problem. It has produced an EP code on the center gauge, so I have to go to Mini to have them check it/calibrate the valve body ,since word of mouth is that pertains to the transmission control module calibrated, to a trans failure and limp mode.....but I believe it just needs the software updated. I'll keep you guys posted on if there's any problems, however a 2 year/unlimited mile warrenty on the valve body has given me piece of mind if there is a problem :D
Ok so keep us updated on the software update. Also where did you purchase the valve body?price?info please!!
 
Reply
Old Jun 28, 2012 | 06:09 PM
  #116  
Noir2005's Avatar
Noir2005
3rd Gear
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 276
Likes: 1
From: Southern, NJ
I got it through http://revmaxconverters.com/ The people are waiting to assist you, answer all your questions, and it got here rather fast. It was 695 + 250 core ,but my bill was a little less, not sure why It's got all the sonnax updates as far as I can tell.
 
Reply
Old Jul 2, 2012 | 08:52 PM
  #117  
Noir2005's Avatar
Noir2005
3rd Gear
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 276
Likes: 1
From: Southern, NJ
So I went to MINI today, and quite nervous to be honest. It's the first time I've let anybody work on a vehicle of mine outside of just me doing it. To get you guys up to date, the EP code was on for a couple days, and then went away. At no point in time did it ever have trouble shifting, so it looks like it just needed to be calibrated. No bad solenoids/sensors, or failing trans....

I don't want to come off topic, but I have to give a free plug out to MINI of Mt. Laurel, seriously, they took me and my wife in with open arms instead of with daggers. So anybody in the South Jersey/Philadelphia region, I recommend them. The service manager gave us the nickel tour of the showroom/waiting room, and the staff was very friendly...though I can't say the same for a few customers. I was really waiting for the punch in the face and boot out the door like the dealership I used to work at (:cough: Toyota :cough: )

Anyway, so even though the job was quoted for an hour, we were there for two, which is to be expected since there were a few repairs in front of us. They deleted the codes (nothing serious) and calibrated, and reset the learning deal. In the end, cost us $115 plus tax... which to me wasen't bad. Hell, they even vacuumed the inside!!

So in the end, the Rev Max Valve body is just fine. I recommend anybody needing to replace to order through them. As I said, 2 year, unlimited mileage and more Sonnax updates then you can shake a stick at. Also preplan to make an appointment with your MINI dealer to have the system reset, even if you do not have a EP light come on......and it gives you a good reason to stop by your local MINI dealer, and grab som MINI swag like we did
 
Reply
Old Jul 5, 2012 | 01:37 AM
  #118  
DVS DEA's Avatar
DVS DEA
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area, Ca.
I am having the same issues. 2005 mcsa bought the car in May of this year with 100,000. At first i thought it was suppose to drive like this but did some digging and found this thread. It would do the hard shift in the lower gears 1-3 and it would only happen when the car has been driven for 45-60min. It would also downshift very hard sometimes. I did get a 2 year warranty/24,000 miles. So i am hoping that this goes smooth when I bring it in to get looked at. I love driving the car until it starts to act up. I hope it doeatnt take to long b/c I only had the car for about 2 months.
 
Reply
Old Jul 5, 2012 | 06:33 AM
  #119  
Aspen's Avatar
Aspen
4th Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 424
Likes: 26
From: Kanuckistan
Sounds exactly the same as mine. I have the Chrono package and could see that it only started to shift poorly once the oil temp was up to full temp, usually after 20 minutes of driving. Make sure you tell the dealer all the symptoms and bring the car in hot. They need to diagnose on a drive because there will be no fault codes to read.
 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2012 | 09:53 AM
  #120  
GreenR53's Avatar
GreenR53
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 206
Likes: 4
From: Indianapolis, In
Just spoke to Rev Max yesterday looks like that's the route I'm going once I get some stuff paid off on the credit card.
 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2012 | 10:42 AM
  #121  
Noir2005's Avatar
Noir2005
3rd Gear
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 276
Likes: 1
From: Southern, NJ
Whoo hoo! You'll probably be getting my core, I just sent it back yesterday :-) just make sure to keep the invoice, and check to make sure they put the return shipping label inside. I had to call to get mine emailed since they forgot to put it in.
 
Reply
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 11:51 AM
  #122  
Kellzir's Avatar
Kellzir
4th Gear
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
From: NorCal Bay Area
how much is labor typically to replace the valve body?
 
Reply
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 12:46 PM
  #123  
GreenR53's Avatar
GreenR53
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 206
Likes: 4
From: Indianapolis, In
Originally Posted by Kellzir
how much is labor typically to replace the valve body?
I think its quoted around 4-4.5 hours
 
Reply
Old Jul 17, 2012 | 08:01 PM
  #124  
burusu2k's Avatar
burusu2k
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Add me to the list, my 2005 R53 has 84K miles and the transmission's acting up. Bump shifts 1-2 and 2-3 and downshifts hard. Fluid level is good but the color and odor are bad. I have everything I need to do a fluid & filter change, and have scheduled it for next week.

Having read through this thread, it seems as though most of the reported fixes for transmissions that are already acting up involve a rebuild of some sort. Has anyone successfully saved a failing transmission with just a fluid change?

In short, is there still hope?
 
Reply
Old Jul 17, 2012 | 09:26 PM
  #125  
Noir2005's Avatar
Noir2005
3rd Gear
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 276
Likes: 1
From: Southern, NJ
I swapped the fluid out, and seen a difference, but not enough to my liking. If you catch it in time before it does any real damage, a valve body may be in order, however, that's not always the case, but it's one of the most common issues from what I've read.

It's amazing how when I went to the MINI dealership, they did act suprised as though they never heard of them going bad.

But change your fluid, which will take a couple of times to do it. Make sure the amount you take out is the amount exactly put back in. Go the NAPA and get a 128oz paint mixing bucket, it has measurements on the side. Drain the initial oil, which is around 80oz. Mark the side of the bucket, and dispose of oil. Then the remaining oil in the pan can be poured in, and mark the bucket. Add the two numbers and you get your total.
And heads up, you will need to move the engine to get to two bolts on the pan. Take out the one bolt from the bottom engine mount, and loosen the top passenger mount, and use a big piece of 2X4 and jack it up slowly, it'll twist just enough for you to get a torx bit at the two bolts on it. After that, its a piece of cake. Hope this helps.
 
Reply



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:10 PM.