Okay...I've changed my own oil on my cars for years but I'm not sure about this little gal

So where do I look for the oil filter?

Is changing this filter really that hard?

I went out to this page http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...62&hg=11&fg=30 and it looks like just an aluminum canister with a filter element inside and an o-ring.

What has me a little concerned is when I purchased the car (used) I had the shop change the oil and they screwed it up by mis-aligning the o-ring and I had to have my dealership fix it...so...

Two questions (sorry to be long winded)

1) Where is the filter
2) Is it that hard?

THANKS in advance...this site is great...I can usually find what I want with the search...and normally find someone who has photo documented these repairs...but my seach has been unsuccessful...I'm sure it is out there but my search words didn't bring me to where I wanted.

thanks again,
Joe.

 

Oil filter canister is behind the engine next to the header pipes. you will need a 36mm socket.

It's not *hard* but I find it awkward to get back on sometimes. 100 people will now follow up to let me know how easy it is for them.

 

Darkness,

Thanks for the quick answer...I'll check it out when I get home.

When you unscrew the aluminum canister and remove the filter element...does the O-ring simply stay put or do you have to take it off too?

Is there a preferred way to install the O-ring to minimize 'pinching' of the O-Ring?...like install it on the aluminum housing (part you screw on) before you attempt to screw it on or is it better to apply it to the other half and let it mate up?

It looks like Auto Zone carries these filters too?...do you need to purchase the O-Rings with each filter or reuse the one that is there?

Again...sorry for all these questions...I'm just trying to figure it out and learn from others versus making mistakes others have probably already made.

Thanks again!
Joe.

 

The o ring stays on the canister top and you just have to pull it over the threads and off. New one slides right over and into the little groove made for it. Put the new one on you try to install the canister... Just put a thin coat of new oil on it first.

I always get the OEM filters and order them from moss or wherever i happen to be ordering from and they come with new o-rings, so i'm not sure if autozone will have a new one with them.

there should be a write up in the how to section with pictures and everything. It's pretty straight forward

 

Only get the Mann/ Mahle filter as the others have and can cause problems.

Easiest way to get the filter and canister back on is to take the filter and press it on the center stem first with out the canister. It makes it easier to get the filter to seat on the stem with the canister so the threads can catch.

 

i suggest if a napa auto parts is near to get a filter from them. They carry mann, mahle and the wix brands.

 

Be sure to lube the o-ring before putting the cansiter back on... A dry one can tear.
There are a few good diy's here with pics for oil changes...do a quick search, and Please use oem, Mann or Mahle filters...NAPA seem ok too.

 

http://www.tech-esq.com/Site/Engine/..._Change.html#5

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ange-ever.html


just two for starters .... I'd suggest you try searching a bit more cuz there's lots of warnings and advice out here b4 yu mess something up

 

AZ does carry STP filters for the Mini, make sure it has the O-ring inside. BUT if you read most the threads on the STP filters, the O-rings are prone to leak, even after being lubed and installed inside the groove properly. Possible issue is that O-ring is thin in material and likely to compress easily over a short period of time (2 weeks) before you start to see some oil leakage.

Stick with OEM filters and its O-ring.

The only real hard part is getting the car up on the ramps. The oil drain valve is in the future wish list.

 

OEM is wise.
My suggestion: have TWO filters with o-rings... (in case you shear the first o-ring like I did even with oil on it).
It takes some real technique to get that damed canister seated enough to allow the threads to catch.
After the job is complete DEFINITELY start the engine and warm it to operating temp and CHECK FOR LEAKS around the canister. It happened to me once an I ended up having to dump the new oil back into the catch pan in order to pull the canister/filter back off and put a new o-ring on. You don't want to be stuck with a broken o-ring and no way to get the new one except for mail delivery days later. That' why I suggest having multiple o-rings on hand JUST in case.
Good luck.

 

for what it is worth the dealer can sell you just the o-ring

I broke one once and had an extra element kicking around the drawer so asked last time I was there. Not the most cost efficient way to buy the parts needed but if you are like me and can't bring yourself to toss an unused part.

Agree w/recommend' to have a spare around tho, breaking the o-ring isn't very hard to do and unfortunately the first sign you did it is usually oil on the floor after you start the car . . .

 

Yeah, if the canister is not seated right it will throw the oil pressure light. annoying thing.


I did reuse a o-ring one time (forgot to replace it ) and it held up fine until the next oil change. Not sure I'd recommend intentionally doing it though...

 

Great idea about always having a spare set of O-ring on hand just in case and saves from having to go back out to get a new one or have to mail out for another one. Then, swap out the spare on the next oil change with a new one, so as to keep each spare fresh, but not really necessary as long as you keep the spare in its plastic bag or put in one if it didn't come that way to keep it clean.

One thing is lessen the chances of a new O-ring leaking is to re-lube the oil filter block housing that's on the engine with the same fresh oil you should have lubed the new O-ring on the filter housing.

What happens a lot of time people will wipe down the one on the engine leaving it nice and "dry". So while you have pre-lubed the one on filter removable housing, the thin layer of oil will get rubbed off trying to screw it back in onto a dry surface.

 

another part of OP's question

"is it that hard?"

No it isn't, but it can be THAT DIFFERENT . . . . how many have seen a paper element in a canister and a hidden location and a bung that tends to not want to come out

That's why anytime I find out about someone who buys a used MINI in my neighborhood, via work or what ever, I invite them over to the house for an orientation session. I'll help 'em do the first oil change and we'll go over

brake wear checks and sensors
pad and rotor changing
engine oil filters
filter sockets that fit ... and those that won't
cabin filters
sticking bungs and FUMOTO valves
runflat truths and myths

once you learn a trick or two getting the filter can back on without breaking the ring is a snap. Until then . . . well I once spent almost an hour fighting the beast! I had a very early 02-S and started inviting other owners over to my place after my first DIY oil change experience. I thought they'd appreciate the warnings . . . I believe they did . . and still do as I have regular visitors.

all this for the price of a Guiness Pint !

if you'd filled in your location

I'd know if you were close

and could be invited over . . .

 

I know this is an old thread...but I have a question.

I called NAPA and they do have the Mann filter for $12.69

Is HU8161X the right part number for my Mini?...I do not have the S/C version.

The guy at NAPA wasn't quite sure so I figured I'd check...

Thanks!

 

Anyone have any info on whether this is the right part number for the filter?

Also NAPA said they also have a NAPA "Gold" version of this too...any thoughts on that as being a viable candidate?...price on that is $7 each...

THANKS!

 

HU 816/1 x was the original right part number for Gen 1 MINI (R50 and R53), although it has now been superceded by HU 816/2 x.
I'd go with the Mann over the NAPA part.
Here's the Mann vehicle application guide:

http://www.mann-hummel.com/mf_prodka...11&ktlg_lang=1

 

I've been using the NAPA Gold (wix) for over 200,000 miles with no problems. They have a very good reputation on the oil forums.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
The number is 7303 and they come with the o-ring.

Jim

 

Crikeys, why not buy your filter from the dealer and get the right part? I comes with the o-ring, a new seal for the drain plug (2nd gen, not sure on first gen) and it's only about $9. You can buy the correct MINI oil there in quarts too, about the same cost as Mobil 1 at Wal Mart.

I always use factory parts if I can, just seems to make sense that you'd want the right stuff in your car, especially if they're competetive on price.

One more thing for first time first gen owners, sometimes the drain plug is very hard to get out. Use a 6 point socket and a good long breakover bar to break it loose, and be sure you're square on the head of the plug before you push. Some people have had to have their pan removed to get the old plug out after they rounded it off.

I recently had to help a fellow club member with his after he rounded it off, I welded a big old nut over the remains of the nub and it came right out. Buy a new plug in case you mess yours up, it'll have the seal already on it.

BTW, you do not have to drain the sump just to take the filter cannister off to repair a torn o-ring. Just let it sit a few for the oil to drain out of the filter and you're good to go.

 

Well...long time since I first posted on this thread but the Mini has sat most of this time in winters rest here in Indiana...

Anyway...I just wanted to say THANK YOU to everyone that contributed to educating me...

I just changed the oil and filter in about 30 minutes...much of that time I had to wait for the oil filter housing to cool some since I just returned from the rifle range and drove the car...

But all in all your tips were spot on...

I must say that getting a 1/2" socket drive down in that very confined space had me worried at first...but you only get very small increments in the turns on the ratchet before you run out of room...but it came off no problem.

Then getting the old O-ring off was pretty easy with the use of a small blade screwdriver.

I lubed up the new O-ring and carefully rolled it on being careful to not nick it on the threads...I think I succeeded and after I refilled the oil pan and started the engine and put my hand around the filter housing and NO LEAKS so far!!!...I'll watch it just to make sure but it looks good.

I went with the NAPA Gold filter since I looked at both that one and the Mann at NAPA and compared the O-rings and both seemed just as stout...so I went with the one that was 1/2 price.

As far as only using the "mfg" stuff...well you're talking to the wrong guy there...I'm not a believer in that stuff...I've wrenched on my vehicles for years...I don't replace my brake pads, belts, air filters, shocks, batteries and all the other stuff I change for maintenance with only OEM stuff...so that scare tactic don't really work on me...I believe the aftermarket stuff is just as good and better in most cases...I believe Mobil1 is a superior oil and have used it in most of my vehicles for many miles...I exclusively use it in the Excursion and she sees some serious towing duty pulling our 9000# travel trailer to and thru the Rockies twice already...so for me...OEM isn't necessarily gospel...sorry...

When I had to replace my battery in my Excursion...I didn't go with Motorcraft even though that was what came in it...

As far as having to drain the pan to replace the O-ring...I was wondering why you would have to do that since the oil filter canister is so much higher than the oil pan...gravity says you should be okay once the oil in the canister drains via gravity...thanks for that confirmation...good to know just in case I have to replace the O-ring for some reason.

As far as the 36mm socket...MAN that is BIG!!!...I ended up getting mine at Sears.

Thanks again for all the tips and suggestions...it really did make my first oil change on the Mini go so smoothly...

I even was able to find the directions to reset the count down timer to 15500 miles!

Thanks again everyone!
Joe.

 

It's worth mentioning that the oil filter should be changed while the oil drain plug is out; doing so will allow a good amount of oil, that was trapped in the oil filter housing, to be drained out.

I use OEM BMW oil filter and AMSOIL engine oil.


Regards,

Phil.

 

Under "normal" oil change circumstances that is correct.

The question in this thread though was what if you "nick" the O-Ring while installing and don't realize it until you have re-filled the oil pan...under those circumstances...the question was whether it was necessary to completely DRAIN the pan BEFORE you pull the oil filter housing to change the O-Ring...

I couldn't understand having to drain the pan since the filter housing is so high in relation to the pan...I would think gravity would "drain" the filter housing to allow you to pull the filter housing to make the swap to a new O-Ring...

That was the question and discussion about not draining the oil pan...it was a "special" situation and not the "normal" one...

Joe.