Need some Rad Fan replacement direction
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
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From: York, Pennsylvania
Clearly you have the wrong fan assembly. But you are in luck. With the one connector fan and external relay, you can use an external resister to bring back your low speed. Make yourself a cup of tea and read this thread.
Low Speed Fan-We need a solution.
It is a long thread so be patient. But clearly, you can bring your low speed back without removing the fan and you will never have to replace the fan again for this problem.
You may be in luck that you got the wrong assembly. I assume it is returnable and not only exchangeable?
///Rich
Low Speed Fan-We need a solution.
It is a long thread so be patient. But clearly, you can bring your low speed back without removing the fan and you will never have to replace the fan again for this problem.
You may be in luck that you got the wrong assembly. I assume it is returnable and not only exchangeable?
///Rich
I'm going to hold onto the old original fan, so I can replace the resistor on that at my leisure if and when the new one burns out.
I'd also like to see if the new part's resistor is 0.30 ohms (the ...577 part turned out to be 0.29 ohm on careful measurement)
or 0.33 ohm as some others have reported.
I might want to use two 0.15 ohm 100 watt resistors in series or two 0.68 ohm 100 watt resistors in parallel
as my calculations show that the resistor dissapates about 120-130 watts on low speed.
I'll also have a newer fan motor (in case my 7 1/2 year old one is thinking about seizing or burning out), and the new assembly
will have a 2 year warranty.
For those of you who don't want to go through all 15 pages of that thread, a resistor can be bridged across the two red/stripe
wires in the 3-wired harness of the fan to bypass the burned out one in the fan assembly itself and positioned where it will
dissapate heat adequately (preferably screwed to something metal). This is functionally equivalent to the original circuit.
There's something like a diode bridged across the original resistor - anybody know what that's for - possibly to block back-emf
from the fan motor when it kicks off?
Last edited by cristo; Oct 23, 2010 at 10:34 AM.
Christo
You might have the right fan....
Look at the 2 pin part...does it look like the plug on the ps fan?
This plug is on the fan for the pre 2005 cars with unmodified ps wiring harnesses. On post 2005 cars, it is not used, or cut and taped off.
You should have a single round plug....
If you have 2 round ones and the ps 2 wire plug, it is the wrong one!!
You might have the right fan....
Look at the 2 pin part...does it look like the plug on the ps fan?
This plug is on the fan for the pre 2005 cars with unmodified ps wiring harnesses. On post 2005 cars, it is not used, or cut and taped off.
You should have a single round plug....
If you have 2 round ones and the ps 2 wire plug, it is the wrong one!!
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
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From: York, Pennsylvania
If I use the ...577 part (pre 3/2003) and don't use the extra 2-pin plug, then my low speed fan would work,
but the high speed fan (which currently still works on the original fan assembly) would not work.
12V to the 2-pin plug closes a relay in the fan assembly which allows 12V from pin 4 of the 3-pin connector to get to the fan itself.
On low speed the relay would see about 6V (split between resistor and fan) which hopefully would not cause chattering and early
failure of the relay.
I could wire the 2-pin harness to the high speed red fan wire and ground wire in the 3-pin harness to power the relay when the
high speed fan is called for, but I guess I'd rather get the right part in the first place.
but the high speed fan (which currently still works on the original fan assembly) would not work.
12V to the 2-pin plug closes a relay in the fan assembly which allows 12V from pin 4 of the 3-pin connector to get to the fan itself.
On low speed the relay would see about 6V (split between resistor and fan) which hopefully would not cause chattering and early
failure of the relay.
I could wire the 2-pin harness to the high speed red fan wire and ground wire in the 3-pin harness to power the relay when the
high speed fan is called for, but I guess I'd rather get the right part in the first place.
Last edited by cristo; Oct 23, 2010 at 12:04 PM.
If I use the ...577 part (pre 3/2003) and don't use the extra 2-pin plug, then my low speed fan would work,
but the high speed fan (which currently still works on the original fan assembly) would not work.
12V to the 2-pin plug closes a relay in the fan assembly which allows 12V from pin 4 of the 3-pin connector to get to the fan itself.
but the high speed fan (which currently still works on the original fan assembly) would not work.
12V to the 2-pin plug closes a relay in the fan assembly which allows 12V from pin 4 of the 3-pin connector to get to the fan itself.
So I know a few folks that got the right fan...and thought momentary it was the wrong one. Just making sure!!
If you have it figured out...
Just to clarify for anybody following along....my 2005 TYC fan (the replacement) had ONE round plug...the mult- wire one, and the 2 wire one...my OEM DID NOT HAVE THAT PLUG...THE DEALER HAD CUT IT OFF WHEN THEY RE-WIRED MY PS FAN WITH THE NEW PS FAN HARNESS MOD.
It works fine...high and low...and the 2 wire 12v plug is not needed...I was advised to just wire-tie it out of the way, or chop it off, and wrap in in tape, and tuck it in under the wire protecting wrap like the dealer had done on the old one.
Like I said, just making sure you understand the issue on YOUR fan is the wrong one, and not just an extra wire..I thought the earlier ones had 2 round connectors AND a flat 12 PS fan connector... For ease of understanding, the flat PS power pigtail is usually not counted when counting connectors...it is just a feed FROM the fan to the PS fan...not a supply line TO the fan for pre-2005 (production date)/unmodified power steering harness cars...that way they MINI/BMW did not create a new part # to stock.
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 232
From: York, Pennsylvania
The ...577 part has one large 3-pin oval connector and one smaller 2-pin oval connector at the end of the harness.
The oem one on my car (suspected to be the ...092 part I haven't taken it out yet to see) has only the one large 3-pin oval connector.
The oem one on my car (suspected to be the ...092 part I haven't taken it out yet to see) has only the one large 3-pin oval connector.
Look at the plug on this PS fan...does it look like the 2 pin 12V one you are looking at?!
When the the do the wiring mod, to split the PS fan from the Radiator fan, the wiring that acts as an extition cord (one male, one female end) between the PS fan, and the rad fan is moved, and plugged into the interior fuse box...
Mine was rewired by the dealer...but when I bought my replacement fan, WMW included instruction on how to do this split, so I am 100% certain what the flat 2 pin 12V plug (with oval-ed corners) is for the PS fan.
So if you have just the single bigger 3 wire connector with heavy wires ((2 power, 1 ground)), and the thinner 2 wire one (look at the stiffness of the wires to the 2 wire plug..it is for low amp apps) you have the fan meant for the NEWER cars.
I'm not trying to drive you crazy here, just trying to make sure the right info is around!
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 232
From: York, Pennsylvania
The 17101475577, which I ordered and received, is intended for an R50 and R53 up to 3/2003 and has the
single 3 wire connector with heavy wires, and a thinner 2 wire plug about the shape as I see in your post.
It's an open circuit from the high speed fan pin (the thick red wire pin diagonal to the brown one on the 3 pin connector)
to the fan unless you put voltage on the thinner plug, then 12 V goes from the high speed fan pin through the relay and to the fan.
The low speed fan pin (the other thick red wire one) on the 3 pin connector goes straight to the resistor then to the fan.
I checked this out myself with a multimeter, clips and batteries.
The 17117541092, which has only the single 3 wire connector and which I just ordered and which
resembles the one already on my car is intended for an R50 and R53 from 3/2003 - 11/2006.
12 V goes straight to the fan from the high speed fan pin, and through the resistor to the fan from
the low speed fan pin.
Aftermarket ones follow this pattern as well:
early - http://www.1aauto.com/1A/RadiatorFan...tm_content=RFA
newer - http://www.1aauto.com/1A/RadiatorFan...tm_content=RFA
Even though my MC has an official build date of 2/28/2003 and plugging the VIN into realoem or asking the dealer
points to the earlier style part, it has a sticker that says 3/03 on the door jamb and has the later style part in the car.
and has the 3/2003 and after style fan part.
I'm the only owner of my MINI since it was new, so I know no one has changed its power steering fan/radiator fan wiring.
single 3 wire connector with heavy wires, and a thinner 2 wire plug about the shape as I see in your post.
It's an open circuit from the high speed fan pin (the thick red wire pin diagonal to the brown one on the 3 pin connector)
to the fan unless you put voltage on the thinner plug, then 12 V goes from the high speed fan pin through the relay and to the fan.
The low speed fan pin (the other thick red wire one) on the 3 pin connector goes straight to the resistor then to the fan.
I checked this out myself with a multimeter, clips and batteries.
The 17117541092, which has only the single 3 wire connector and which I just ordered and which
resembles the one already on my car is intended for an R50 and R53 from 3/2003 - 11/2006.
12 V goes straight to the fan from the high speed fan pin, and through the resistor to the fan from
the low speed fan pin.
Aftermarket ones follow this pattern as well:
early - http://www.1aauto.com/1A/RadiatorFan...tm_content=RFA
newer - http://www.1aauto.com/1A/RadiatorFan...tm_content=RFA
Even though my MC has an official build date of 2/28/2003 and plugging the VIN into realoem or asking the dealer
points to the earlier style part, it has a sticker that says 3/03 on the door jamb and has the later style part in the car.
and has the 3/2003 and after style fan part.
I'm the only owner of my MINI since it was new, so I know no one has changed its power steering fan/radiator fan wiring.
Last edited by cristo; Oct 23, 2010 at 03:54 PM.
One last post, just trying to help. Not trying to argue.
Sounds like you are convinced, and you give a good argument..the pics on the site do seem to back you up, but pics of items are not always accurate.
The differance between the 2 fans is the old style fan has the relays on the fan, hence the higher price... The newer version has the relays for the fan on the carbody.
Do what you think is right, then make sure it works.
I would simply go check you car...and even plug in the new one and let it run...the wires are plenty long enough to test it!!
All the plug(s) are accessible too!! (and you have one of the two fans...).
The differance between the 2 fans is the old style fan has the relays on the fan, hence the higher price... The newer version has the relays for the fan on the carbody.
Do what you think is right, then make sure it works.
I would simply go check you car...and even plug in the new one and let it run...the wires are plenty long enough to test it!!
All the plug(s) are accessible too!! (and you have one of the two fans...).
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 232
From: York, Pennsylvania
Tried that - plugged into the car, the low speed works on the bought fan, the high speed doesn't.
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 232
From: York, Pennsylvania
Found the wiring diagrams for the two versions:
up to 3/2003 - this is also the diagram in the Bentley Manual
www.mcaw.info/wds/mini/us/svg/sp/SP0000015989.htm
3/2003 on - the circuit in my car - this one isn't in the Bentley Manual
www.mcaw.info/wds/mini/us/svg/sp/SP0000019592.htm
from this site:
http://www.mcaw.info/wds/mini/us/r50/index.htm
They have gen 1 and gen 2 diagrams.
You may need to install the Adobe SVG reader and allow active x java controls
for this to run properly. Sometimes, I've needed to delete old relevant
cookies to reset it.
Edit - the links above no longer work,
you can however get to the right schematics here (look under complete vehicle/drive/engine cooling/electric fan two stage/ -(for appropriate year))
http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r.../r50/index.htm
up to 3/2003 - this is also the diagram in the Bentley Manual
www.mcaw.info/wds/mini/us/svg/sp/SP0000015989.htm
3/2003 on - the circuit in my car - this one isn't in the Bentley Manual
www.mcaw.info/wds/mini/us/svg/sp/SP0000019592.htm
from this site:
http://www.mcaw.info/wds/mini/us/r50/index.htm
They have gen 1 and gen 2 diagrams.
You may need to install the Adobe SVG reader and allow active x java controls
for this to run properly. Sometimes, I've needed to delete old relevant
cookies to reset it.
Edit - the links above no longer work,
you can however get to the right schematics here (look under complete vehicle/drive/engine cooling/electric fan two stage/ -(for appropriate year))
http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r.../r50/index.htm
Last edited by cristo; Aug 10, 2011 at 08:25 AM.
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 232
From: York, Pennsylvania
Finally got around to replacing the radiator fan. It took a few hours, as I went slowly and carefully.
The old fan had the broken resistor of course, but comparing the old fan to the new fan on high speed,
it was apparent that the old fan motor wasn't in great shape either. I tested its resistance and got about 1.8 ohms,
whereas two new fans both tested about 0.35 ohms (talking about the resistance on just the fan, not the resistor),
so I'm glad I got a new fan assembly rather than just swap in a new resistor.
The old fan had the broken resistor of course, but comparing the old fan to the new fan on high speed,
it was apparent that the old fan motor wasn't in great shape either. I tested its resistance and got about 1.8 ohms,
whereas two new fans both tested about 0.35 ohms (talking about the resistance on just the fan, not the resistor),
so I'm glad I got a new fan assembly rather than just swap in a new resistor.
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