Hey All,

I will be replacing my Rad fan on my 03 MCS soon since the low speed has quit. I have searched NAM for a clear answer on how to most easily replace the rad fan on an R53 MCS. I am finding conflicting info. Some say you can do it with just the bumper cover off, others say you need to remove the entire bumper and more!

I also found this picture guide, that shows a lot more coming off than I feel comfortable doing myself:

http://s253.photobucket.com/albums/h...oBFree_001.jpg


Does anyone who has done this themselves have a solid answer for me?

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t-end-mfe.html

This link is a good start....
then pop the pins on the rad support...upper corners...and a clip or pin (it was a long time ago) on the bottom corner, and you and nudge the rad forward or back a bit, and slide the fan out.
One suggestion....removing the bumper+bumper cover is pretty easy, you just need a socket set, a few screwdrivers, and some Patience (maybe a torix wrench, but if not you should own a set since you own a MINI..cheap at the big box store)) to connect+disconnect the lights!! Very doable. Just remember to unbolt the AC condenser (NOT DISCONNECT IT!!) and swing it out of the way!!
If you have done anything more than change the oil, I bet you can DIY it.
When I did it, I did not have a guide to get the front off, so I figured it out as I went, with little info...with the info, should be a breeze!
On the plus side, once you put it into service mode once, you will know a-lot more about your car, and realize it is not all that different to work on than most others....it just takes a bit longer to put it into "work mode" if you will. If you are cost sensetive, this may be the best time vs $$ project to save a few $$, and you suddenly see,,a SC, water pump, etc, is just a few more bolts away for future use!! A second set of hands for a few minutes when you put the bumper cover on is great...the temp sensor, and a few of the light tend to pop off as you try to bolt it on, but it is a pretty good project. Just be sure you order your fan based on the production date, and not the model year...so you get the right fan!

 

And too answer your question...you cannot move the rad until you move the bumper....it is easy...just a few long bolts.

 

Replacement of the fan assembly requires you to loosen the Modular Front End (MFE). Some people also refer to this as "service mode". I recommend you get a Bentley Manual before you start, it has a good explanation of how to loosen or remove the MFE. It is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. And yes, you will have to remove the bumper as well as the bumper carrier.

 

Thanks all. Very helpful. Last question, do I have to drain the coolant from the lower rad hose before doing this? And if I do, whats the proper method to top it off and bleed it for air afterward?

 

No, but you likely have to take disconnect the top one....a few have said they have avoided it, but it is simple...I'd pick up an aftermarket screw clamp...the factory ones are a pain, and sometimes they break.
IF you do drop the lower hose, it is an easy way to do a partial drain (there is no drain plug on the rad), and refil with fresh fluid....it only takes about 1 gallon of coolant, mixed 50/50 with distilled water if I remember right....IMO use MINI/BMW coolant...the blue stuff, ot maybe the equivalent euro stuff (do a serch, I forget the name, but is is a bit of a hybrid of the new+old, so it is not either, or the universal....so by combining jobs, you can save some maintenance money in the future...it should be done every 4 years (MINI DOES NOT USE LONG-LIFE COOLANT), but if you just drop the hose on the rad, you get a partial change, so a bit more frequent should be good....like 2 or 3 years IMO!!
A quick search will get you like 10 methods to bleed....
Basically open the bleed, fill up the tank, and keep it filled....let the car idle till the fan come on...NO AC Heat on MAX, and no bubbles come out the bleed..it may take a bit. Then drive for a bit (to move any remaing bubbles around) and then I re-bleed it....keep an eye on the take level for a few days..the remaining air will work it way to it...it is the high point. If not bleed right, it can overheat....so I have gone through the "procedure" a couple times....I'm sure there is another way or two, but I've had this method work!
And a word of warning....be careful, don't burn yourself taking the cap off, etc, all the usual warning cautions for working on a cooling system!!

 

Zippy you are great. Thanks.

Couple questions about what you wrote.

1. I cant seem to unscrew my bleed valve on the top of the rad hose...is there a trick? Or do I just turn it hard to the left?

2. Secondly, if I am emptying a gallon of fluid from the lower rad hose, how do I add it back? My coolant expansion tank doesn't hold a gallon...do I just fill it up, let the car run with the cap off, and begin topping it off as it goes down?

 

The valve might be stuck....I found a flat blade worked better than a Philips...the plastic is kinda soft...try the other way a bit to unstick it, then left!
and as you said....
and do I just fill it up, let the car run with the cap off, and begin topping it off as it goes down? is right!!
with the bleed open, it will work its way down hill to the rad....when it seems to be done, then turn on the car, and let it idle a bit, keeping it filled!! Heck you will have a few pints/quarts come out the bleed, so you will need to hose it off when done.
If you are in AZ, I think Mynes in in AZ..they do lots of MINI tuning+upgrades.....I think you asked in another thread....was at one time on this board as a Vendor. but any custom exhaust shop can do the one-ball....the chain places may look at you kind strange!! most shops can bend a piece of pipe...paying more that maybe $15 for a prebent hunk of pipe IMO is a rip-off. It is hard to get the one ball to hang stright, and not rattle...I still have stock, but if you get someone who knows hoe to adjust the brackets, it is a good mod....

 

Thank you Zippy. I owe you a beer or 2!

 

sorry you went through all that

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-solution.html

 

SeanKidd! I didn't do it yet! That thread is a MESS, I am afraid to go back in there haha. Could you sum up the fix for me? Thank you in advance

 

I would too, i got tired after reading page 14.

 

It is important to know your comfort zone....nothing is worth than attempting a job, then half way through, realizing that you are over your head, and struggling to complete the job. Hopefully the job is completed and it works...but tons more $$$ damage could be done if it goes wrong, or you have to flatbed the car to a shop, or pay a mechanic a fee to come finish the job...plus the downtime.
I would say that when the front end is off, you will say WOW...I am in deep...but the bumper/bumper cover is easy...it just looks radical!! Beyond that...not so bad!! I managed to do it without a manual, but the Bently would be the way to go IMO!!

 

The fix CAN work...but it might take some experimenting to make it work right, find the right mounting spots, etc. Lots of effort, but it can work...and it may be a better long-term solution...then again...I have not heard of any failures of the aftermarket fan...so the issue may be a faulty component in just the BMW/MINI OEM part....

 

I just replaced my fan. The 'girls guide' is great. I have a bentley, but didn't even reference it during the process. The resistor approach is temping, but for me, R&R the fan was the most attractive. It does look daunting, but it's less scary when you're done.
I just undid the top rad hose from the rad and tied it up (to prevent coolant loss). It helps to stuff a rag in the rad so it doesn't seep coolant the whole time. By removing the hose, you get very easy access to the fan assembly.
My tidbit - when reassembling, screw all the MFE pieces on loosely, and make sure the upper mounting bolts for the bumper line up. Mine was off just a bit, so I had to loosen the bumper support and extensions to get it all to line up.

 

I feel comfortable replacing the fan. I just had the MFE out to replace my supercharger inlet tube and gasket, and also changed the bypass valve, fuel injectors, FPR, etc. It's just a pain in the ***! I was hoping for a quick wire-in fix! hehe

 

there are 3 wires that feed the fan, 14 giage red/blue is the stage 1 fan, it supplies power to a wire wound resistor mounted to the plastic fan housing. The resistor drops the voltage to about 5 volts (slow speed), the 5 volts is then tapped back into the stage two fan feed (larger 12 Ga wire. The 3rd wire (brown) is the ground.

if you cut the smaller red/blue wire at the connector, in hind sight I should of done it after ther connector to leave the harness intact, feed this wire to a .33 Ohm wire wound resistor such as Arcol Wirewound Resistor, Chassis mount 100Watt capacity from mouser.com (part number 284-HS100-0.33)
then feed the output to a scotchlick connector to the larger blue/red wire).
in essence you are just relocating the oem resistor. mount the rwsistor to the body to help dissipate heat, I mounted mine here:

see attached images

here is the cut wire and resistor. I soldered mine and shrink wrapped it, however you could use a small crimp ring connector and screw/nut but the hole in the resistor spade is rather small 1/8" maybe.

The oem location of the resistor mah dissipate heat by allowing cool air from the front of the car, but the plastic housing does nothing for a heat sink and it seems the exposure is what corrodes the oem resistor away.

To test your stage one fan, start car and put on a/c, as soon as the a/c compressor builds up 8 psi, the stage 1 fan will start.

Hope this helps, sorry if over simplified but I'm an all things electric geek-Licensed NJ electrical contractor, certified energy manager.

 

I concur with Eric Rowland's advice on reassembly of the MFE, torque the crush tubes last...(74 ft lbs) just did my Powerflex bushings this weekend.

 

Hi SeanKid, Thanks for your help. Could you attach larger photos? I can hardly see them when I click them.

Thanks

 

Yes. The external resister simple external jump tap will not fix the low speed in your 2003 as the relay on that is on the fan and not in the fuseblock. You need to replace the entire fan unless you want to take the assembly out and tap off the old resister so you can externally mount the new resister.

I used connectors from an old R/C battery so when the new fan I have in goes, I am good to go with a new resister on the old assembly

Rich

 

My 2003 MSC is a 5/2003 production date has the relay in the fuse box, The cutoff was mid 2003, early 2002 and some 2003 have the relay mounted to the fan as well...from what I' read some aftermarket fans do not have the Stage one capapbility and fan comes on 100% all the time.

 

see attached

 

I can say absolutely that if you get the right fan for your production date it works in high and low speed. I have a 10/2002 build 2003 MCS. I bought the right fan from Rock Auto, $80, and it works in high and low speed.

Rich

 

The resistor in my fan assembly has gone out along with the low speed fan setting. I'm having trouble getting the right part for my car.

The 17101475577 part I got has a 3 pin connector and a 2-pin connector.
I was told this was the correct part for my build date and VIN when I ordered it (form a MINI dealer's parts department),
and RealOem said so too.
With this part, the high speed needs the relay on (in the assembly, powered by the 2-pin connector) to send
+12V to the fan via one of the pins on the 3-pin connector.
My car's original fan assembly (build date 2/28/2010 VIN ...TC44243) has only a 3 pin connector
and sends +12V directly to the fan by the high speed pin.
March 2003 is supposed to be the cutoff date between the two parts.
I'm guessing I should have gotten the later model (17117541092) which I believe only has
a 3-pin connector, and unfortunately, this will involve buying another fan and shipping the first one back.
Can anybody confirm this?

 

Clearly you have the wrong fan assembly. But you are in luck. With the one connector fan and external relay, you can use an external resister to bring back your low speed. Make yourself a cup of tea and read this thread.

Low Speed Fan-We need a solution.

It is a long thread so be patient. But clearly, you can bring your low speed back without removing the fan and you will never have to replace the fan again for this problem.

You may be in luck that you got the wrong assembly. I assume it is returnable and not only exchangeable?

///Rich