I've been push starting my 2008 Cooper S since last Thursday. I found a thread where someone said use a cable tie to "seat" something that came loose which causes the computer to register when the clutch is depressed hence allowing the car to start.

The Original thread was a couple of years old and Photobucket has long since removed the photos, I emailed the OP and havent recieved a reply so I was wondering if anyone else knows anything about this. Myself and 5 other people have searched underneath the dash all around the clutch - I see what is described - I understand the principle of how it is supposed to work but I don't see anything to reseat with a cable tie. There is nothing hanging, dangling or unplugged. The only thing noticable is the original cable tie is loose enough to wiggle and get part of my little finger under it. For something that was described as a 2 minute fix I'm having a hard time getting this one wrapped up.

ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

 

bump

 

No one else has ever had nor heard of anyone having problems with the clutch starter switch?

 

Yes, but you really need some diagnostic software that can talk to the EWS to see the Clutch/neutral switch status. Also could be a problem with the EWS in general. You could check the output of the EWS to the starter fairly easily. Should be Pin 10 on the round connector near the front fan connector in the drivers front of the engine bay. IIRC it is Black with a Violet tracer. Out put from EWS should be 12V for the start signal.

 

I have an 03 cooper S, I'm no expert and have no idea if its the same on your 08, BUT I do know on mine its a sensor not a switch and I knocked it loose when installing my meth kit and my car would not start (turn over). Check out the picture to see what I'm talking about. I popped it back on and it started right up.

 

Thanks for the pic Syn3rgy. The 08 is similar but not exact. Enough so that I could tell how it needs to be. I just returned from the dealer in Birmingham. That didnt have a clutch starter switch so they took one off a 2010 model. Didnt fix the issue. After a day of testing they concluded it to be the clutch master cylinder. lucky lucky me... 498.50 to fix this im out of warranty due to milage so I get to foot the bill. My first question when I pick up the vehicle on Friday will be, "Is it normal for an 18 month old car with 58k miles (mostly hi-way) to start falling apart?"

Thanks again for pic!

 

Have never seen this issue.....I think they are guessing....Don't let them stick you for if it doesn't fix it...

Is your car a Convertible?

 

Yeah, that was the first thing I asked when they told me. I replied that their first assumption was incorrect so why now the certainty on this one. The answer was if it doesnt work I don't pay for the procedure.

...seems fair enough, since they've spent the better part of a day testing and looking. All I want is to not push start my car - Fred Flintstone I'm not.

2008 Cooper S - Pepper White - Premium, Sport, Built-in Nav

 

LOL, once I had an Olds Cutlass with no reverse. I had to plan my parking to avoid pushing.....

 

The hall switch is not that hard to trick. I used to put a screwdriver by the hall switch on the convertibles to simulate mechanical operation and see the status changes in the CVM. EWS and the clutch switch shouldn't be much different...I've never done it because I've never seen a problem with a master cylinder.

The clutch disengages properly? No strange peddle feel?

 

Thanks for the picture- it really helped me. My MINI stopped being able to crank even with the clutch depressed. It had acted a little funny- not cranking the first time, then cranking second time clutch was depressed, then it just stopped cranking no matter how many times the pedal was pressed (or how hard). From the picture I was able to find the connector and in trying to get the connector off, the whole little assembly popped off the master cylinder. I found that if I put a magnet next to the small rectangular protrusion on the side away from the connector (the side that goes next to the cylinder) that the car would crank! I put assembly back on cylinder and problem seems to be gone but I'm glad to know how to get the car cranking if it happens again (I'm carrying the magnet with me in the car). Not exactly sure what the proper procedure is for pulling the assembly off. Also wish I knew how to remove the connector and if a couple of the wires could be shorted to bypass the switch (only for emergencies). I had just gotten back from a trip so I'm happy it happened in my garage- things that can go wrong with a car on a trip really freak me out, especially when they are with a car so few people know anything about.

 

I'm having similar problems, I pulled the switch/sensor out and am wondering if anyone knew how to jump it or test it.

 

I can't remember who it was that mentioned the test of the clutch sensor trick but THANK YOU!!! As I am sure you all have done the searching was endless and almost had me dropping the subframe on my base mini to yank the starter. At the last moment I read the post about using a magnet against the clutch sensor located just behind the clutch pedal, great picture in the thread. Sure as heck the magnet switched a solenoid switch or something and on she started!!!! I would have been irate if not for the last second thread read. So thanks again. :thumbsup

 

My 2005 R50 would occasionally not start, but all dash lights would come on and the battery is good. Frustrating when a problem is intermittent. Finally, my Mini stopped starting altogether. I found this thread and tried the magnet. Works! Unbelievably easy. I put the magnet there, removed it, and it started. You don't have to use it every time. Now I keep the magnet in the glove box. Big help by the Forum.

 

I had the same problem, turns out that the floor mat had slid up under the clutch pedal. Sounds like I'm an idiot, but I pulled it back out of the way and haven't had a problem since

 

I didn't find any information about testing the clutch safety switch till i seen this. I did use the magnet and it did make the relay if there is one "click" and when i would take the magnet off then on then off then on, it would click each time. My concern is when the switch is set back up onto the clutch pedal housing and i press the clutch in i don't hear the same click that the magnet makes...

My reason for doing this test is that my mini wont start, not sure after some research if its a bad switch or a bad starter. Keeping the magnet on the switch and turning the key did nothing to make my 2004 MC start so i guess i am leaning towards thinking the starter is bad. Just recently watched the video on youtube on how to remove the starter, fingers crossed its the starter, i will have it bench tested when i get it out...

 

I experienced the same outcome as you. Put a nice rare earth magnet to the clutch switch and now the clutch pedal clicks when pressed in. The engine does not start. I don't hear any clicking from the starter or any attempt of the engine to turn over. Did replacing the starter work for you?

 

I've been using a magnet to activate the clutch starter switch for over 3 years. I don't have to use it every time. I see no need to try any other way or to do an actual repair.
I have not replaced my starter. In my case, this is not a starter issue.

 

I was responding to chrisdurand. He and I were unable to fix the issue with just a magnet. I’m wondering if maybe my starter is bad like he thought.

 

Just thought I'd come and ask if you figured out if it was the starter or something else as my 02 is having a similar issue. I was going to order an ignition switch and see if that was the issue, seems the magnet isn't working for me. I can get a click out of the switch every time I put a magnet near it or even depress the clutch, but nothing else happens. Any update is appreciated.

 

Here are failsafe steps to pinpoint the issue and fix it:

1. " redacted "
2. " redacted "
3. " redacted "
4. " redacted "

 

I replaced the starter and the car fired right up. It was just weird to experience a starter going out that didn’t at least try to start the car. No clicks or anything. Turn key...silence. I’m glad it was just the starter and not some electronics issue.

 

I am excited to read this post and am hoping it solves my problem, as I desperately need this car to drive! The car won’t start or crank— and it has a new battery with a good connection.

Was acting up for a couple of days where it would take a couple of tries to start and now nothing..... I hope I can try the magnet trick to work —- two questions please:

1) Where exactly do I put the magnet and if there a picture you could please share it with me?

2) How strong of a magnet is needed?

Thank you very much and any help is much appreciated!
stephanie

 

Hello, there is a small protrusion on the side of the clutch cylinder that the pedal goes up in, that is the clutch switch. A magnet about midpoint up on the box will activate it and you should hear a click. I just use a simple telescoping magnet for retrieving things dropped in the engine bay, not a very powerful magnet but better than a fridge magnet or something. You can remove the clutch switch by pulling gently out at the top and it will come off fairly easily. This way it is easier to hold the magnet and switch with one hand while turning the key with the other. Mine ended up being a bad ignition switch but was intermittent so difficult to track down. Hope this helps, good luck with yours!!