I have a 2003 S with a 6 speed and was doing a oil change last night. There is some kind of valve inside the oil filter housing base that has come out. The dealer parts department tells me that it is part of the oil filter housing base and is not available by itself. The tabs that look like what holds it in place are broken.
I know that the filter goes into the housing with the hard plastic end toward the base, I assume that is what is supposed to push the valve down and allow oil to flow. I had to remove the large spring (about 1/2" in diameter)that goes around the valve to be able to keep it in place while installing the filter. Everything seems to be fine but I do not have a pressure gauge to check for sure.
Does anyone know for sure what this little valve is for and if it can be replaced? It looks like to me the only purpose it serves is to stop oil flow if there is no filter installed (who would do that ) I hate the thought of coming up with $300 for the complete filter housing to replace a little plastic valve.
Any thought are greatly appreciated!

 

I found this by doing a Google search.

Did anybody ever help you resolve this? I have the same problem right now.

Bill

 

If it's any consolation, the part (11427563522) should be a smidge cheaper than you thought (about $230-$240) if you do it yourself.

 

Have any new sources turned up for this part?

I'm facing the same issue now too. All other issues have been adressed (updated filter housing, correct source for the filter its self, new sensor). I'd rather not pay $200+ for a $2.00 check valve.

 

Maybe you can find one at a salvage yard.

 

I had to buy the entire unit for $230. I tried a salvage yard and they put it out on their search site. No luck at all. Couldn't even find a used engine.

I considered replacing the entire unit but upon looking at the bottom of the new unit I could see that removing the valve is very easy. I used two small scre drivers to release the little prongs that hold it place and it popped right out. I then pushed it into the old unit and we are back on the road.

Removing the entire filter base from the engine would have taken many hours. Removing the valve and putting it in the existing base took about two minutes.

It does seem a waste of money to have this new filter unit sitting around as paper weight but what the heck; Mini owners know how to waste money don't we?

I will never buy another one that's for sure.

 

It is very painful and frustrating. If this ends up costing me $400+ to fix, and it like will, that'll be a hit to my modest bank account. Or maybe more accurate to say, I could have done better things with $400.

 

My attraction to Mini's started in 1971 when I was in England and bought a 1959 850. Shortly after buying it I installed an 1100 engine and remote shifter. I still own a 1970 LHD with an 1100 engine. I am just getting started on the restoration.

Sad to say but, the 2005 S will be going down the road without me later this spring.

I'll stay on this forum becasue it does have a lot of great tips and people willing to help.

 

I changed my oil today and found the drainback valve in the bottom of the cannister, mostly intact. Does anyone have any info on what's supposed hold it in place? I'm going to try to engineer a retainer but have no idea how it's going to work. Is the valve supposed to have tabs on it? Any info appreciated.

 

Are you talking the black plastic piece with the separate spring? If that came apart, putting it back together won't hold for long. I just dealt with this myself. Ended up having to replace the entire oil filter housing because of it. It eventually started to trigger the oil light in my car. First at idle, then at low rpm, then all the time. Figured I better get the problem fixed because there was no real clue whether oil pressure was low or not.

 

For clarity - this is the black piece with attached spring at the bottom of the cannister housing - the anti-drainback or filter-bypass valve.

There is some confusion about all this because (at least early) non-S models had a separate spring and black plastic piece under thle cap of the housing as well. And when these were missing, the symptoms were the same - no oil pressure or at least none at idle.

Ok then - I read elsewhere that someone fixed their dislocated valve by inserting a C-clip into the grooves that the retaining tabs (that break off) are supposed to go into.
I fixed mine by doing the same with an approximately 3/4" diameter C-clip from a Dorman brand assortment of fasteners purchased at O'Reilly. The clip was slightly too small to hold initially, so I spread the clip a bit with a screwdriver. After that, it snapped right in.

So far, it works like a charm.

 

love that Yankee ingenuity!

 

Do u remember we're u read about that c clip fick? I just did a oil change and now need to fick this problem too. Any help would be appreated

 

Update.

I did eventually just pay to have my whole unit replaced when Greasy's Garage had it in for a new clutch. It was painful to spend nearly $400 for a plastic valve, but rolled into a $2k clutch job, it was much-of-a-muchness.

 

The c-clip thread is on this board somewhere.
There's really not much to it. There are 3 "fingers" around the hole that the valve sits in. You'll have to experiment to find a clip that fits in the grooves on the fingers. Just put the valve in the hole, spring side down, hold it there & with the other hand push a clip down on top of it. If the clip is acceptable, you should feel it snap into the grooves. I had to tweak a clip a little to get it to stay.
Once it's secure, you can carefully re-install the filter. Be cautious, as the filter actually rests on the valve. This makes installation of the filter slightly precarious, but on the upside, the filter holds the valve securely until your next oil change.
Also, don't tear the cap seal! Mine ripped a little and I didn't realize it. I got the car shut down in time but could have lost the motor.
Don't buy a $200-plus housing when a c-clip'll do the job.

 

I noticed Oil Light was on at idle ONLY after changing oil and filter.My Mini is a 2003 non S P-50 .
After reviewing the boards I removed the cap and found the clip and spring were missing which are at the bottom of the housing(the base). It was there last time I changed oil and filter. When trying in the new filter into the housing, and removing it in order to seat it into the filter cap/cover, the clip and spring jumped out and lost itself.
I have not found a source for the spring/clip/ (and valve?). I am told the only option is to buy the complete oil filter base which attaches to the block. Cost aprox $275.
I am unable to find a pic or description of the bottom portion on the plastic clip which holds the spring in place. I can not find information about a valve or plunger which may be included to push on the rubber valve cover I can feel with my little finger at the bottom of the hole which the spring and clip are to be installed. There seems to be no info about how this assembly works nor the purpose of it. (Other than to make the oil light go off).
My plan is to fabricate an assembly but need help as to pictures or descriptions of all the parts. Unless, of course, someone knows of a source for the spring/clip/and(?) assembly
I just received a copy of Bentleys Service Manual and was disappointed not to find the answer there. I now see there is also the Mini Cooper Diagnosis Without Guesswork publication available. Does anyone know if the oil filter pressure relief activation system is described in this book?

 

This is a long shot, and I'll probably take grief for suggesting it, but does anyone know what the the oil filter arrangement is on a Neon/PT Cruiser motor of the same vintage? Since the engines started out as the same basic cooperative project, perhaps there is a cheaper source for the elusive valve assembly in the junkyards out there. Just a thought.

 

The only motor the mini shares with a dodge neon was a very low powered one made for export to 3rd word markets.....so a junk Yard in Latin America might work ( very low numbers.. was mostly a failure like most big 3 auto exports of the era) ...good thought though...

 

Yeah, Zippy, I just did my research (which I should have done before spitballing that idea). Neons use a spin-on cartridge, so the valve would not be part of the engine assembly, anyway, even if such an engine were available.

 

Okay, one other crazy idea since I have no dignity left to protect. The early 2000's Chevy Cavaliers with the 2.2 liter DOHC engines had canister-style oil filters a la MINI. Anyone been inside one of these to tell me if they have the same kind/size of OP valve assembly?

 

Just broke mine,

Has to be a better fix?

 

been thinking about this lil plastic torn in my side, When the filter is in, the filter presses the drain back valve into a seat blocking oil from draining from the housing, So when the filter is removed valve opens oil drains from housing ,
Why not remove the tin seat and put a oil galley plug in its place?

 

Used a small cut off disc on a dremell, cut some grooves in the 3 fingers until C Clip fit,
3 cans of carb clean and air hose to clean it out. more photos in my Albums

 

You guys got me scared. I was just about to go do an oil change on my 05 convert non-turbo when I started reading this. Makes me not want to mess with the filter at all since there isn't a Mini dealer closer than 45miles (and they broke my sunroof anyway so I don't even want to talk to them) and I am driving to OR from Michigan Monday. Don't have time for a f'up. Thanks for the pics though.

 

It's not a jiffy lube, or franchise oil change, experience but not as chaotic as this thread. My lessons learned:

1. Use a OEM filter
2. Sit the filter first in the housing (side attached to the engine) then screw filter canister (this pushes that plunger in to prevent breakage when twisting the canister back on
3. Take ur time. As you screw the canister on feel the lip on both sides relative to housing. If it's cross threaded back it out and start again --- by hand. And push hard to help it sit
4. Don't forget to replace the o-ring.