I believe I have the problem mentioned in other threads where my radiator fan only has the high speed setting working. While these threads seem to offer a lot of information about fixing the problem, I can't seem to find out how serious the problem really is. While I wouldn't mind spending $80 to fix it (I believe someone said you can get a 3rd party replacement fan for that much), I probably wouldn't want to do the work myself so the actual cost would be much higher.

My question is: How serious is this problem and does it necessarily have to be fixed? At this point it's only a very small annoyance, but I worry a bit that it might be doing some damage. If it's not much of an issue then I plan to just leave it alone.

 

I started one of those threads. I've had the problem for several years. While I think I have found the cheap solution, I have yet to complete the repair. Obviously I'm not too concerned.

 

First let me say that my guess is that a LOT of Mini's have this problem and it is not noticed. As well as bad lower control arm bushings and leaky seals and oil pan.

In this case I think it is better to have it fixed. The car will run a bit hot until the high speed fan kicks in. If you do a lot of stop and go, it becomes more important. More highway, less important.

As for me I was really stoked that the external resistor would fix Artoo but alas, it only works on the fans with a single connector and the relay in the fuse block and not on the fan itself. If you have a late 2003 or later Mini I think the external resistor is the answer and it is easy to do without much effort. In my case the resister is not an option and I'll be changing the fan when I do the lower control arm bushings and oil pan gasket in a few weeks. While the car is apart, why not?

Rich

 

Since the vast majority of my driving is on the freeway, I think I'm going to skip it for now. I just paid $100 to get the radiator system flushed and from what I can tell that would all be for not since the radiator would need to be drained for replacement if this part. I suppose when I go into the mechanic in a couple of days I'll ask how much it would cost to replace.

I don't suppose the limit for the high fan could be lowered to the temperature for the low fan. That would alleviate any cooling issues, just make the fan run a bit more aggressively than it needs to.

 

Nope. The guys that know what they are doing put the car into service mode, disconnect the top hose and slip out the fan. No draining necessary.

Rich

 

The main problem with not fixing the fan is that many folks that ignore the fan issue will have their AC compressor fail earlier.......less aiflow over the radiator=less airflow over the AC condenser=higher working pressures=shorter compressor life.
You can pay a little bit now, or more later......

 

Interesting, that makes sense as I just had the AC compressor replaced. Luckily it was at no cost to me, since I just bought it used and as part of the sale they said they would fix the AC. I'm sure they didn't realize how expensive it would be when they agreed to it...

I'd really like for the new compressor to have a good life expectancy. With the realization that the radiator doesn't need to be drained, I'll probably go for getting it fixed after all.

 

Good to hear that you AC was fixed.
Draining and refilling the rad is regular maintenance....MINI DOES NOT USE LONG-LIFE FLUID....it should be done every 4 years (I think)....failure to do so could cause problems down the road. The OEM fluid is BLUE. It is a good time to combine tasks. The fan can be done without drain the rad....
The aftermarket fan is available for $85 or so....and a few sellers give a lifetime warranty....

 

Really? When ever I turn my AC on, even with the car cold, the high fan turns on and runs until the ac is turned off. Is this not how it should be? Wouldn't this make the low speed fan setting have no impact on the AC system?

 

thx grassroots, i'll check it
ciao

 

Do you know which one is best? I checked and 2 different mechanics would charge about $300 for the part and about $250 for labor. I would like to just spend the $85 and $250 for the labor (both said they would do the install if I brought the part, just not warranty it), but I'm not sure which one to get. rockauto.com has several available, has anyone bought any of these and had a good experience? I'm guessing that the one that says "1 speed motor" would not be a good choice.


2002 MINI COOPER 1.6L 1600cc L4 FI [W10B16A] SOHC : Cooling System : Radiator Fan Assembly Price Core Total Advice
TYC GENERA Part # 621980 More Info
Base; (TO 3/03); 17 10 1 475 577
- Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 1 business day

Part Image
$88.79 $0.00 $88.79
Add to Cart
SHERMAN Part # 36014000 More Info {#17101475577, MC3115101}
Radiator cooling fan assy (blade/ shroud/ motor) mini cooper/ cooper s 02-03/ 03

Part Image
$105.79 $0.00 $105.79
Add to Cart
FOUR SEASONS Part # 75647 More Info
Radiator Fan Assembly; w/ 1 Speed Motor

Part Image
$121.79 $0.00 $121.79
Add to Cart
VARIOUS MFR Part # MC3115101 More Info {#17101475577}
fan housing assembly; to 3/03; Radiator cooling fan assy (Only 1 Remaining)

Part Image
$138.79 $0.00 $138.79
Add to Cart
DORMAN Part # 620902 More Info {OE Solutions}
Fully Assembled for Ease of Installation; Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade
* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days

Part Image
$132.89 $0.00 $132.89
Add to Cart

 

That's the key, before or after March 2003. I bought one last week for my May 2002 MCS. It was from Rockauto, made by TYC and looks solid. I will be having it installed in a month, along with some other work.

 

I have a TYC....and my local MINI Mechanic installs TYC as replacements too (in all honesty, if you were not told you would swear it was OEM...it is a PERFECT copy, at least externally!)....I know many folks that have it....I got mine at rock auto....Some places offer a lifetime warranty on the TYC unit.

 

I'm pretty sure that the fan runs on LOW when the AC is on on any temp...and it is what runs most of the time the AC is on...except under extended idling/low airflow conditions. The Hi speed does not turn on till the car is very hot.....like when the low speed has failed, and the car is not moving...it tends to cycle on and off every fw minutes, rather than steady, extented running, as with the low speed fan. The low speed does make some noise, but the HI speed setting is VERY loud...it can even change the idle momentary when the car is idling....do you have the speeds mixed up? Have you heard the "low" and the "HI"? I could always be wrong, but having the fan turn on hi just does not make sense when just the AC is turned on....Low can be triggered by the lower of two thermostat thresholds, or the AC turning on....and HI is triggered by a higher thermostat threshold.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...olution-8.html

Not sure what to tell you...I just know several folks have posted they had AC failures, and it was attributed to a failed Low speed fan by their Mechanics (there are a few posts, and a $400-600 part plus labor, drier, and 134A refill...why chance it over a $85 part)....one thing is undeniable, and that is your car runs much hotter than it should with the failed fan, and much louder. I know when hi-speed turn on, the car is MUCH louder...OEM or the replacement...

 

Well I just ordered the TYC GENERA part #621980 for $88.79 ($98.71 after shipping) from rockauto. Hopefully everything goes alright...

 

The low speed should come on whenever the AC comes on and when the temperature gets higher the high speed then comes on. If the high speed comes on when the car is cold, then something is not correct.

The more I think about it the more I think that it does make a difference with the AC and particularly when you are in traffic or stop and go. If there is no air over the condenser you won't have good cooling. And the pressures will go up in the entire AC system stressing everything. That became clear to me and Artoo over the last few hot days when I thought that the AC was broken even though I put in a new condenser last summer. When I started moving it worked fine but stopped, it hardly worked at all.

So, I do think that if you use your AC you should consider getting it fixed when you can.

And as an aside looking at a couple of fan assemblies, it looks like the OEM one is made by Dorman.

Rich

 

I got the part on Tuesday and had the mechanic install it. He said that the connector didn't fit all that tightly so he put on a zip tie to make sure it stayed. $348.71 later ($98.71 for the part and $250 for install) I'm happy to report that I have a low speed fan once again.

 

That is interesting as there should be detents on both of those connectors keeping it in. BTW, Dorman's are backordered indefinitely all over.

Rich

 

OMG...It's the cooling fan for the engine ! Unless you would prefer walking to work soon I would get it repaired.

Not hard to replace. Just time consuming. TYC brand is lifetime warranty too. Costs 90 dollars shipped.

Just have to put your MINI into service mode, unhook upper radiator hose, kant the condenser/radiator slightly forward while supporting it some, and slip old one out, slide new one in. Them top off and bleed the system. Rest is just nuts and bolts stuff....

Just make sure you order the correct assembly for your car. I bought one from ebayer in the Carolina's I think. Great company to deal with who was very helpful.

 

This is a very important problem. If the fan fails as it did on my wife's 2006 MINI Cooper S R52 as it did last week, it can cause a few other expensive problems. I now have power steering failure because the radiator cooling fan plays a big role in helping to cool the power steering. Don't wait until it's too late, get it fixed ASAP.

I own a 2006 Mini Cooper S R52 late build. I wanted to let all of you know that the BMW part number for the cooling fan of this vehicle as per BMW is 17-11-7-541-092.

I am posting this info because those A/Hole parts guys at my BMW dealer would not give it to me so I could try and buy it online.

2006 MINI COOPER RADIATOR COOLING FAN PART NUMBER IS BMW PART NUMBER IS 17-11-7-541-092....this is the three (3) prong plug!
I am told that the only difference in the early and late builds is the thickness of the wheel studs for the two. The late build wheel studs are thicker, keep this in mind when you are replacing brake rotors and pads.

EVERYTHING CHANGED FOR THE 2008 MODEL YEAR.

THE SITE IS NOT LETTING ME LOAD PICS AT THIS TIME. EMAIL ME IF YOU NEED TO SEE THEM.