This is the worst part of the 2885 problem is the code does not really provide any data as a launching point for troubleshooting. The car is basically saying to you, "Hey, uh, this isn't as good as I think it should be. So, you know, we're gonna tone it down. I have no idea why."

I have heard of people saying the catalytic converter in the exhaust downpipe can become "clogged" which reduces gas flow rate, inhibiting the engine from expelling exhaust gases hence reduced turbo performance. I do not know of a method for inspecting that.....yet.

These are the components I have replaced to date:
11-667-55-6-919 Vacuum Pump (OEM) $$$
11-657-59-5-547 Pressure Converter (OEM Wastegate Controller) $$
11-657-57-0-465 Vacuum Piping $ (OEM)
11-657-60-0-890 Turbocharger (GPop Shop hybrid) $$$$
11-657-59-3-273 Diverter Valve (Blow Off Valve, have the WMW upgrade) $$
13-627-53-5-069 Temperature/Pressure Sensor (Hard boost tube, passenger side OEM) $

My vacuum pump was literally filled with oil. No exaggeration. When I removed the vacuum tubing oil poured out of the nipple. When I removed and dismantled the pump, oil shot out when I loosed one of the 4 housing bolts.

After the new pump was installed and I cleared the code, the car performed with flying colors. Lots of power, wonderful sound, pure joy. Even at low RPMs (1800-2800) and a high gear (4th or higher) you could hear the turbo sucking in air like I have never heard before and the power just poured out effortlessly. That hybrid turbo is a dream! I drove like a mad man for 3 days then 2885 again. However this time after I shutdown the engine and restart, I have power but not the power I had immediately after replacing the vacuum pump. During heavy load (low rpm, high gear) 2885 kicks in again. My theory is the ECU's adaptive algorithms have taken hold. If I drive like a nanny the code clears itself.

1st and 2nd gear still pull like a monster. 3rd and higher runs the risk of 2885 showing its nebulous face.

So my new question to the masses is, should I be chasing a sensor or boost leak, or do I need a professional tune? If I need a tune to properly incorporate the hybrid turbo, do I need any external hardware for this or can a tune shop directly flash the ECU?

I know tunes and all that are pricey. I'm hoping a sensor or boost leak is the real cause but I have a sneaking suspicion the hybrid turbo is being retarded due to ECU adaptives.

As always, cheers.

-Frank

 

You can test the catalytic converter by using a back pressure gauge. It attaches in place where the O2 sensor up by the turbo is located. I understand anything above 1.5 is not good.

Back pressure indicates that the flow is restricted in the cat.

You mention that the turbo had a bearing failure. Was there oil leakage at the shaft seal? If so that is an indication that you would have pushed oil out to the cat.

I didn't go with gpop. But I did go bigger with a 42 mm turbo. No tune and it runs fine.

 

Lol at that first paragraph, SO true.

As for the second, mine acted the exact same way. WAY more prone to the code coming back up. And yeah an easy roll through all the gears and the code's gone.

As for the third, once again same story. Seemed as though as long as you don't give the ecu time to see the pressure deviation everything's fine.

I don't know about the hybrid turbo without a tune, I know these cars are pretty damn good at adapting and from what I've heard you really only need a professional tune to get the MOST out of that turbo, but not necessarily just to make it work. (I know I'm not being much of a help here just giving my 2 cents.) As small and stupid as this may seem have you checked for carbon buildup and/or another fault in the Diverter Valve? That's really all I can think. I only say this because I chased so many possible causes and several times now it ended up just being carbon buildup causing low compression.

Either way, best of luck to you. Limp Mode MINI's are no fun.

 

I will rent a backpressure tester and check my downpipe cat. What a wonderful reason to upgrade if it happens to be failing

My diverter valve is brand new as of August 2012, but I will have another look at it.

 

My cat had melted and almost completely collapsed. The car would only boost to around 7psi instead of 21psi (its a JCW). Funny thing is would drive like this and only throw the 2885 code every now and then.

I removed the cat completely. You have no idea how much better it then felt

 

This is frustrating as hell! Just keep throwing money at it and maybe, just maybe, I'll figure it out. Put a new vacuum pump on and the power delivery actually got worse, then of course the 2885 code came back. These little go carts are fun when they run and a pain when they don't. Addendum:replaced old vacuum lines with silicone lines and changed preset on waste gate actuator by about 5 turns. Car ran great for about a week. Code came back while on freeway and was able to reset it a few times. Last reset made no changes to the complete loss of boost. Back to the drawing board.

 

so, after nearly 2 and a half years i solved the p2885 code rrrrr and afteer thousands of dollars later..My turbo finally went out and i replaced it, i bought an aftermarket turbo "i do not recommend buying a replacement turbo" problem solved. My turbo always seemed ok, except for dropping into limp mode..The wastegate seemed to be working properly and so did the turbo, however, only from tests i could do myself, i put vac pump on and pulled wastegate open and it seemed to be working under specs, but when i removed and replaced it, i noticed it was getting hung when i opened and shut it manually..THANK GOD, i replaced all the vac lines, HPFP, Vac pump, both sensors on intake, boost tubes, recirc valve. Now my car seems so fast compared to what it was before, i thought it was still fast then but boy was i wrong, now i really loving the Access port as i am getting the full effect of it....

 

Hi everybody.
I has the same error 2885 some time ago.
Thank you for your answers, it help to find solution in my case.
I found that the westgate is broken in my turbo.
It looks like this:

(I took this photo from O2 sensor hole)

I bought new exhaust hoosing from jmturbocoopers:


I waited this part from 2 week for delivery because I'm from Russia (VODKA, MEDVED, etc)

After replacement the error desapear and my MCS R56 2009 reach full boost.

I hope this can help.

 

Last weekemd I installed a Alta Hot side Boost Tube and an Access Port with a stage 1 92 octane tune. On the first drive I experienced the P2885 DTC. I cleared it, but it came right back. I did a firmware update, uninstalled the tune, and then reinstalled it and all was working well for three days. Today on the drive home from work on a very mild acceleration in sixth gear the ECU threw the P2885 code again. I talked to Alta and they said first to chech my connections on the new boost tube and make sure everything is tight. Then check the BOV to see if the diaphragm has any issues. Funny thing is when I bought my boost tube something told me that with 86,xxx miles on my 07 MCS to go ahead and buy Alta's BOV. I haven't installed it as off yet. I'm pretty confident my boost tube connections are tight. Even if I don't see anything unusual with the stock BOV I'm replacing it anyway. If this doesn't prevent the DTC from coming back I'll be like a lot of you all in here in that i'll be chasing the rabbits tail until I track it down. I can't rely on my local Mini dealer as they are pretty clueless about anything that insn't cut and dry. I don't have a pile of money for all this so I could be driving around a turbo R56 car that acts like a non turbo R56 car for periods of time. If I get too frustrated I'll remove the Access Port and trade in my Mini for something from another manufacture.

 

Alta Stage 1 JCW always throw P2885

I took the tune off and ran stock for 1 week, no code. The second I put the tune back in, I get the code in 4th gear.

 

So I just posted a separate thread on the 2885 code before coming to read this thread. I have done the GPop turbo rebuild to K04 spec, Alta BOV, and for 50000 miles or so now I have had all Alta intake hot/cold tubing and intercooler, JCW exhaust, OCC and had the vacuum pump recently replaced. Still getting the 2885.

I have no idea where to turn and I am tired to taking it to the dealer to drop $$$$ on it with no results.

I am wondering about the cat in the exhaust but have no clue how to go about testing that.

Sad, but I am at the point where I want to ditch the car for something else.

 

Yes, it is very frustrating. After a long battle with the 2885 code it finally went away when I replaced the cat with a straight pipe. That has lasted for over a year now. The code was telling me that the exhaust wasn't pressurized enough past the lower sensor; cat was probably clogged. Interesting enough, my turbo waste gate linkage arm broke recently, leaving my waste gate in the open position, and the code came back, i.e., lack of pressurized exhaust flow. I do have the AP tune so I don't get a code with the straight pipe installed. The install gives noticeable power and a better sound to the exhaust. I spent $259 for the down pipe and $15 for the gasket. Did the install myself in about 2-3 hours time. My Mini can be a real pain in the *** sometimes and yet it's still the funnest car I've ever driven. Best Regards.

 

I've been plagued with this code for 3+ years --- incompatible mods combined with a Jeff Perrin dyno tune. It happens when I accelerate too hard in too high a gear. I can avoid it by downshifting so the RPM is in my positive boost range BEFORE hard acceleration.

My latest dyno tune supposedly minimized this code, but there are other issues with the map so I haven't been using it --- I've learned to live with the code. And, it's easy enough to reset "on the fly" with the AP. Getting closer to full use tho.

 

Hi,

Strangely enough I had the code from a clogged cat, which took a while to diagnose. Then recently the code came back, and it turned out to be a broken waste gate linkage arm.

 

Purchased my 08 mcs with a clogged cat. Upon replacement, I'm getting 2885. Shop ran some tests and I pulled the diverter and vacuum lines and everything looked good. My CEL stays on after startup and I do not get any turbo spool up at all. Any ideas? Is checking the waste gate linkage a huge pita?

 

Damn, I'm kicking my own *** with this P2885 code as well. I installed a FMIC and the Accessport Stage 1 FMIC map. I do not have a cat so the cat is out of the question. I am thinking it may be the waste gate as well. When I took my downpipe off to do the decat downpipe I was looking at the wastegate and it seemed loose or something...I haven't had much dealings with turbos and waste gates therefore it could be just fine, but I can touch it and here it has a lose sounding rattle to it, not sure if that's normale or not. The car has been running just fine until I did the stage 1 FMIC tune today.

 

Ive read this and the Alta/Accessport threads quite completely. I recently installed an Alta Accessport and installed a stage 1 tune. My car is a 2007 MCS. Ive got an K&N typhoon system and a Riss Racing catless 2.5" downpipe. The power the tune produced is great. However as soon as I as well do a top gear roll the 2885 code comes up. I data logged this and my system is showing a requested boost delta of 6-10 lbs. I reset my tune to level zero and retested the roll on and no more problem. I called ALTA and talked with Tech. They were very helpful and told me that the stage one is set up for a stock airbox. The Typhoon is fooling with the tune and telling my computer to expect higher boost numbers than my turbo can produce. So tonight back to stock I am going with the airbox. I will retest the roll on with a stage 1 tune tomorrow to see if the airbox/tune problem is the cause. If it does then it seems the reason so many of us have this problem is that we don't have the correct combination of upgrades and tune.

 

You are spot on! Keep us updated, I'm very eager to see what your outcome is. I believe you are on the right path. But best question of all is, how can we get the intakes weve spent so much money on to work with our loved Stage 1 tune???

 

Im not sure other than having a custom tune done by a COBB tuner- WHICH DO EXIST!

 

I installed my stock airbox. With the stage one Accessport tune I did the same roll on test on the highway. The half lit engine light and code 2885 came on. I pulled over and set the car to stock stage zero and did the same. No problems. Im unmarrying the accessport and selling it.

 

Welllll now on the way home tonight in stock level zero my code 2885 came back again. Without the tune. Obviously I've got a problem. I think it's the turbo wastegate. Gonna have to start looking for a rebuild

 

I've been wondering if my waste gate may have a problem as well. Mine throws this code pretty regular now, it throws it even when in higher gears rather than 5th or 6th gear rolls and usually I would be able to pull 20-21lbs of boost, I'm peaking at about 17-18lbs now.

 

Its been a week and a full tank of gas since I replaced my turbo with a known good used JCW turbo. When I removed my turbo and exhaust manifold it was obvious that the waste gate linkage had excessive play. Not only that the part of the arm where the rod attaches was cracked. And the hole elongated. With the replaced turbo. No more code

 

That's exactly what I'm thinking. I talked to my extended warranty company about my issue recently so I'm hoping I can get this resolved soon. I want to go with that Mini Mania K04 turbo if I'm going to be changing out my turbo, why not upgrade. Anyone have any information on those?

 

Please keep us updated on your situation! I'm exactly the same boat.....my 2009 Clubman S has 150,000 miles on it with the original turbo...I'm thinking my wastegate linkage is probably shot too.