Yes the lines could very well cause a p2885. They are pretty easy to install too.
I went ahead and changed the HPFP and so far no code, however I havent had it on interstate yet.

 

Well I spoke to soon! Damn stalker code! Well it wasn't the HPFP, or the DV valve, or the vac lines, or the map sensors, or the vac pump, or the tubo inlet, or the boost tubes hot and cold side, hmmmm??????

 

P2885 still thrown after vacuum lines replaced. Code cleared twice now and I still am without any turbocharger boost. Here are the possibilities I am now considering:
1. Pressure converter.
2. Cold Side pressure sensor.
3. Diverter Valve.
4. Turbocharger.

I sincerely hope #4 is NOT the case and have ruled out the vacuum pump itself as the brakes still function normally (system is vacuum assisted).

Also, I had a helluva time replacing the vacuum lines. The intake manifold was far from easy to remove which made access to the pressure converter and vacuum tank rather difficult. I did manage through, however with no luck eliminating P2885 and returning to full boost potential.

Thoughts?

 

Sounds like you are where I have been for the last 5 months! Process of elimination I guess. Well, I replaced everything you mentioned except the turbo itself or the pressure converter. I put my vac lines on from the bottom of the engine instead of removing the intake manifold and was pretty easy. Good Luck and keep us posted! I'm hoping someone can figure this out since Mini cant even figure it out. Ive heard of ppl replacing the turbo due to p2885 and still have the issue! I wouldtry replacing the DV certainly before I bought a turb if I were you. Also, mini wants to much for a turbo you may want to look at the Alta turbo for a few hundred more! The only reason I havent bought it yet is because I want to fix this prob first, nothing would be worse than spending $2200.00 and still having the problem stalker code p2885

 

I removed my diverter (BOV) and noticed it is stuck in the open position; the solenoid mechanically failed. Lucky for me, if this is the failsafe position in case of malfunction, go BMW/Peugeot/whomever for excellent engineering work

I've ordered the WMW diverter which is an upgrade from OEM and happens to be cheaper too, and should have that installed within 1 week. Fingers crossed this will sort out my P2885 error.

 

Sadly the new DV (WMW DV) didn't solve my problem. Bavarian Technic is showing the MAP sensor at the intake at 800hPa (~11psi) while at idle, and no deviation when throttle increased. Other pressure sensors in the system are varying in accordance with throttle position as expected. This is leading me to believe the intake MAP sensor has failed, as I would expect its value to fluctuate with throttle position. Even if the engine has been put into limp mode (where turbo is basically bypassed and system is in a naturally aspirated configuration), intake pressure should fluctuate with throttle position, correct? Having that sensor appear "stuck" with no variability troubles me.

I'll order a new MAP sensor and see if that helps.
Any thoughts as to my reasoning?

 

Did you only just "blip" the throttle, or did you actually try to build boost by giving a hard-rev?
Blipping the throttle won't so much a deviation as the boost pipe MAP sensor sits in front of the throttle body.

- Erik

 

I monitored pressure from idle up to 4500rpm

 

WMW DV installed, cleared all codes and went for a drive. Code did not come back up immediately, turbo is still not boosting. I can tell by listening, that the turbo is not "doing anything" which is leading me to either A) Pressure Converter (wastegate controller) or B) Turbocharger itself (wastegate failure).

Does anybody know how to test the Pressure Converter for functionality? It is a simple electrical solenoid/diagrapm design, but I am not certain as to what values it should hold vacuum under etc.

Either way it's another less pricey component to swap out before making the plunge into a turbo rebuild.

 

Also just to mention, I did have my vacuum pump checked. It is working normally, providing plenty of vacuum to the brake system and ancillary vacuum systems.

 

Bump

 

Replacing the Pressure/Temperature Sensor did not solve my P2885 problem.

I can hear the DV blow off a small amount of boost at high RPMs, and Bavarian Technic confirms a small pressure above ambient (ie boost) at high RPMs.

I'm now facing either A) EPCC valve test was invalid and has indeed failed, B) vacuum pump is supplying vacuum to brake system but not wastegate system, C) wastegate is failed and turbo needs replace/rebuild.

Fingers crossed for EPCC failure.

 

Hello All!
I am a technician at an independent European repair shop in Idaho. We see a high volume of Mini's due to the fact there are no dealers close by.

I have also been battling a code 2885 and thought i would share what i found as others seem to be plagued by this power robbing code.
After following the Bmw test plan, which quite frankly is not effective, i had nothing. So it was time to do some exploratory. Knowing that my turbo wasn't capable of producing any more boost with the wastegate held closed, i suspected a problem.
I removed the heat shields exposing the turbo, at this point i could detect wear in the pivot that attaches the actuator to the wastegate, but more importantly that the wastegate pivot in the exhaust housing was rocking back and forth. I removed the down pipe and could see that the wastegate was only partially sealing. The customer agreed to a new turbo so i dismantled his and snapped a picture. the shaft where the wastegate pivots had worn severely....this car has 63k on it.
After doing some research and contacting Borg Warner (which is who produces the kkk turbo on that car) to inquire about the possibility of just getting an exhaust housing, they said it was a part that was available, but had never been sold in the states. They could get one but it would take up to sixteen weeks which is why the customer decide to go with a new turbo.
Bell Turbo in Oregon also said they could get the part, but again a large wait time. Hopefully we have gotten the ball rolling on this because i am afraid there are more to come.
Hope this helps!

 

I suspected my wastegate wasn't functioning properly, so I disconnected the vacuum line into the wastegate actuator and hooked up a Mityvac hand pump. The wastegate linkage moved smoothly in response to vacuum (forgot to note vacuum needed for fully open). The N14 doesn't actually measure the wastegate position with a sensor, right? Instead the computer tells it where to be with vacuum signal, and relies on boost sensor to detect if there is a wastegate fault?

After driving with the 2885 constantly faulting, we've learned what sets it off, so maybe someone who reads this will guess the real cause for the fault.

It seems to fault when it's accumulated max boost and is actuating the wastegate to trim back turbo from accumulating any more. So for example, I can put my foot in it and get 11 lbs. boost while short shifting all day long, but if I sustain boost for just a second as I'm nearing max boost, it'll fault with 2885, very consistently. I tried driving with lots of different styles and if I drive conservatively (no heavy throttle and short shifting), the car still faults when you get into top gear and are merging onto a freeway, because you're in top gear, and sustain medium throttle for several seconds, and since load demanded is high, turbo is called for and this long duration lets boost build and bam.

So the question remains, what component or signal vacuum tube is responsible for activating the wastegate partially to sustain maximum boost (not overboost) that could be failing and signalling with some sensor to my computer that the turbo's not backing down and we need to open the wastegate fully (or the dump valve) and throw a code at the same time?

The only other niggle I've noticed, that might be a clue is when it's not fully warmed up, the car sometimes has a dip in power at the end of the first few short shifts in boost, like it is able to open that wastegate, al biet too dramatically, but it will not code, and goes on with boost on the next shift.

Another question is, now that I have purchased a vacuum pump/gauge, what psi vacuum value should be seen between the mechanical wastegate actuator, and its vacuum trigger? I believe I saw -10 psi at idle and when turbo was actuated (not in motion, just revving so not much actuation) it seemed to fall to zero. So no boost requested is a vacuum condition, and boost requested is spring in wastegate closing it to allow boost to build, right?

 

Karl
you are correct there is no position sensor on the wastegate, the DME(ecu) monitors boost pressure via the pressure sensors and controls wastegate according to load, throttle position, temp etc
Mini's strategy with this code is to set when it sees a variation in boost from its setpoint to its actual boost for several seconds. explaining the code setting when getting on the freeway.
when checking the wastegate with a mityvac mine also seemed to move freely without obstruction or jerky motion, it wasn't until i removed the downpipe that i was actually able to detect the wear and see that the wastegate was not fully closing, not allowing the car to acheive the boost level it desired, too low or too high will set this code.
The wastegate works of of a vacuum signal from the vacuum pump to a vacuum reservoir through a wastegate actuator which is pulse width modulated, to the wastegate, mini's spec is that the wastegate should start to close at 6" of vacuum and be fully closed around 11"
The wastegate on this car is opposite of most which require pressure to open the wastgate, this one requires vacuum to hold it closed and releases vacuum via a vent in the wastegate actuator solenoid in order to trim boost. If the wastegate will not fully close it will not reach full boost.
if you have a way to monitor boost pressure you can check this.
test drive the car and record maximum boost, then use your mityvac to vacuum the wastegate with approximately 15" of vacuum and hold it closed
drive the car again and see if it is able to boost higher then the previous recorded figure, if the boost level is the same your wastegate is not fully closing and should be examined further.

Eurotech

 

I'll try this on Saturday. If the wastegate is artificially stuck shut with a Mityvac is there any chance of runaway boost? I do have AccessPort so I can try the test you suggest, and can datalog too. I suppose if the wastegate stays stuck closed while driving, and the car can't reduce additional boost after max boost is attained, then the dumpvalve should open along with another trigger of 2885. The difference will be that I will probably build boost much more quickly an will get a higher max, right?

 

Karl you should not have a runaway boost. The computer should cut fuel in an overboost situation. Have not verified this but most modern cars are capable of this.
I would watch it any ways if it starts to go too high back out of throttle. And the bypass valve should relieve pressure

 

Very interesting here guys. I am going through the p2885 code myself after the fuel pump was replaced. I did manage to get about 15 miles of turbo boost until I floored it WOT on the freeway. I am suspecting a wastegate issue over vacuum issues. I am willing to replace any part cheaper than the turbo. BOV, vacuum lines, boost pressure control, or hoses. You have been most insightful on this eurotech and Karlinsandiego!

 

Chuc,
If your car was working well (boost was working well) before you had the fuel pump work done, I'd trace your vacuum lines and electrical sensor connectors and look for something unhooked. Did you have that work done somewhere or do it yourself? Take it back if it's the former. My car's had problems with a torn diverter diaphragm, torn intake hose to turbo inlet and a number of different problems that could be traced back to my reassembly after disassembling the whole top end to replace a burned valve. But if I'm lucky, this last problem might be an adjustment of the wastegate after removing and reinstalling that whole system. Still have to try the static vacuum test on mine tomorrow.

 

The cause of my p2885 is my turbocharger :(

Gotta save up for the Alta Billet option! Until then I'm driving with no power.

 

ENEMINI,
just curious, did you also have a wastegate problem or something else within the turbo, ie; vanes, oil coking.
Thanks
Eurotech

 

Installed the new replacement turbo. works like a charm now, power delivery is much more linear as well as higher output from the turbo!
Runs great again!!

 

I'm getting P2885 after I installed the ALTA Stage 1 map. I don't know what to do...

I clear the code and it comes back when I reach 110 KPH.

Is my turbo the issue?

 

Ch28kid
there are several things thay can cause a code 2885.
Turbo,Vacuum pump, lines, leaking vacuum somewhere, actuator for wastegate, sensors, etc.
Some testing will have to be done to determine the cause.
This code typically sets in higher gears...when the ecu sees a different pressure then it expects for several seconds the code is set.
can you monitor your boost level?..

 

Karl,

Do you have any updates? I've had the same problem bugging me for a while. I've had the torn diverter diaphragm, torn intake hose, and also a valve cover replaced. All from the outside MINI tech doing BMW's standard of diagnosis which is to start off with a smoke test. The smoke test all detected leakage in these items. However, I was still getting the code pop up. I'm in southern California also. And in late September and early October, we were having rather warm weather. My code tends to pop up more when there is a warmer temp. Now that is has dropped to 70 in the mornings, I'm not getting that CEL. Mind you, I'm not going past 4k RPM to try my luck at causing the fault code. My wishful thinking has always been the warm weather causing an intake hose to bend and not drive enough air into the turbo, setting off the CEL.

What have you found with your latest test?

ENEMINI: sorry about the bad news. Not what we all like to hear. Sucks to drive the R56/JCW like a regular cooper.