Sup guys,

I have an 04 MC that is having a slight problem. It runs smooth from 0-68mph, but after that the steering wheel/car starts vibrating. If I keep speeding it will lessen, but as soon as I stop accelerating it'll be shaking like no tomorrow. I have also noticed it stops wobbling at that 70mph point if I'm in a turn. Or I can just turn the wheel a little over like going into another lane.

I jacked the car up at home and the *edit: FRONT* driver side wheel can be shaken by hand. I haven't checked the passenger side.

Any thoughts on what it can be? I asked my Dad's mechanic and he said your wheel bearings probably done. One of the other guys said to check the tierod. So he jacked it up on the driver's side and took a peek while shaking the wheel. He said that I was lucky and that it is the tie rod. He said he wouldn't do it because he said that if it wasn't done completely right, the steering wheel would be sideways.

If it is the tie rod, how much will that be to fix? Can I buy it at the MINI dealer and have a reputable shop put it on? I know that I will need an alignment. Also, how much would a wheel bearing be to replace. I've worked on cars, just not my Mom's Mini.

I'm in NYC btw, so if anyone can recommend a place it'd be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any info.

 

sounds like your control arm bushings.

Way motor works carries the best replacement set

http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerfl...shing-kit.html

 

Hmm I think I missed a bit of information. It is the front driver that shakes.
Control arms are in the rear correct?

 

No; the lower control arm bushings are in the front. They customarily require replacement by about 60K.

 

Ok.
Sorry, I don't know much about FWD cars. Is this job easy to do and is there a write up anywhere?
Thanks for the help.

 

If the wheel bearings are bad, or the tierods worn, both a serious safety issues...a wheel could fall off, or you could loose steering...have it looked at ASAP.
Bushings do go bad..but if the entire wheel can be wiggled by hand, the bearings are likely worn IMO, but like the mechanic said, the tierod ends could be shoot too. Either way, you will need an alighnment after suspension work...
Good luck!!

 

Thanks Zip. I know it is a serious safety issue. The only problem is my car (much older car) isn't in the best of condition to drive so I have to rely on the MiniCoop. Seeing as how the wheel shakes at 70, I'm keeping it under till I find a shop to do work.

 

A tie-rod is very basic...any shop can do it...the wheel bearing...if you want to be safe a BMW import shop would be fine...but most shops should be fine doing it. Bushings..I'd drive down to Philly to helix...bushings can go easy...but I have seen a torch used to loosen them too and a hydrolic press....

 

Haven't had much with the basic shops around here with my car so it wouldn't be good to take the Mini there. The closest BMW service shop charges through the roof for basic work (Inspection II). They're not even that good (Bay Diagnostic in Brooklyn).
I'm looking for a reliable shop that doesn't screw things up. I'll check out the tie-rod next lift and go on from there.

 

i think helix is right in philly.

 

KnightmareCS, did you get this looked at/taken care of? I'm having a very similar problem w/my Mini. (04 S w/65k miles) Haven't had a chance to get it up on the stands and pull the wheels, but I can wobble the driver's side front wheel by hand and hear a slight clicking when doing so.

Curious what your cure turned out to be.

 

Mine turned out to be left outer tie rod end. You can move the wheel back and forth about 1/4". The end of the tie rod was shot (it moved way too freely by hand once I got it loose). New rod end from the dealer is about $90+. An entire assembly from Napa (inner and outer) was $82+ tax.

I had to use a MAPP torch to heat the union of the inner and outer tie rods and I used an adjustable wrench (12" that can go to 30mm) for the 24mm lock nut, then again on the outer tie rod once the lock nut was free. I believe its 13mm for the inner tie rod, but ended up using another smaller adjustable wrench (8") on that. To loosen the tie rod from the knuckle, I used a BFH (big frackin hammer) and a 6mm allen key to hold the end while I loosened the 15mm nylock nut.

Hope this helps someone out w/a similar problem.

Tim

 

Hey!
Sorry for not responding. Don't have the car anymore either. Just got on here for something else.

Anyways, mine had the same problem as yours. Outer tie-rod was bad. Did the "lift the car and move wheel side to side trick". It wobbled. Went to the dealer, got the whole assembly. Took it to a shop near my house, and then drove to another shop for an alignment. Fixed. Only little wiggle from bent rim.
Couple months later, replaced the bent rim with the ones in my sig and all was good!