Door lock question
Door lock question
Okay...it sure seems like there are lots of threads about door lock problems and I've read a bunch of them...most of them seem to revolve around the handle not working properly...the issue on my wifes mini is somewhat different so I figured I'd ask.
I did follow this thread https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...-bulletin.html and was able to just take the door panel off to see if something was obvious...it wasn't...
Here's the problem.
The drivers door will LOCK with the fob, key in door or inside lock switch. However it will not UNLOCK except for the two following methods.
1) if you are inside you must hit the fob unlock or unlock switch on the dash FIRST and THEN use the inside handle twice to open the door.
2) If you are outside...you must use the key in the handle to unlock it.
I'm not quite sure what is going on.
All the reading I did about in the thread I linked to above seems to talk about a cable coming loose...but again...that appears to be what happens when the door handle itself fails to OPEN the door...my issue is the actual auto UNLOCKING of the door using the fob from outside...
Also since I rarely drive this vehicle...is it normal to have to hit the UNLOCK button BEFORE you try and use the interior handles?...that seems odd to me...right now...if you are inside the vehicle...after you drive it and the doors are locked...if you simply try and open the door (passenger or drivers) by pulling the interior handle...nothing happens...yet if you hit the UNLOCK button first...then you have to pull the interior handle twice (at least on the dirvers door).
I'm not quite sure what is going on with the drivers door...any ideas?
The car is now out of warranty.
For those that have attempted the door lock actuator swap out themselves...I had the door panel off...how in the world do you get your hands in there to work blindly like that? how is the actuator actually held in place?...are there screws from the inside of the door that I missed or didn't look for? How hard is it to reconnect all those cables/wires blindly?
I guess I am thinking at this point the drivers door actuator has failed based on the fact that is the only door that won't auto lock/unlock thru the fob or interior switch on the dash. But it also won't unlock by simply pulling the interior door handle...what's up with that...is that normal? The part that is confusing me is that it will LOCK with the fob but not UNLOCK...do actuators fail in only one direction???
Thanks in advance for your help.
If what I have described is not clear, please let me know.
Thanks,
Joe.
I did follow this thread https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...-bulletin.html and was able to just take the door panel off to see if something was obvious...it wasn't...
Here's the problem.
The drivers door will LOCK with the fob, key in door or inside lock switch. However it will not UNLOCK except for the two following methods.
1) if you are inside you must hit the fob unlock or unlock switch on the dash FIRST and THEN use the inside handle twice to open the door.
2) If you are outside...you must use the key in the handle to unlock it.
I'm not quite sure what is going on.
All the reading I did about in the thread I linked to above seems to talk about a cable coming loose...but again...that appears to be what happens when the door handle itself fails to OPEN the door...my issue is the actual auto UNLOCKING of the door using the fob from outside...
Also since I rarely drive this vehicle...is it normal to have to hit the UNLOCK button BEFORE you try and use the interior handles?...that seems odd to me...right now...if you are inside the vehicle...after you drive it and the doors are locked...if you simply try and open the door (passenger or drivers) by pulling the interior handle...nothing happens...yet if you hit the UNLOCK button first...then you have to pull the interior handle twice (at least on the dirvers door).
I'm not quite sure what is going on with the drivers door...any ideas?
The car is now out of warranty.
For those that have attempted the door lock actuator swap out themselves...I had the door panel off...how in the world do you get your hands in there to work blindly like that? how is the actuator actually held in place?...are there screws from the inside of the door that I missed or didn't look for? How hard is it to reconnect all those cables/wires blindly?
I guess I am thinking at this point the drivers door actuator has failed based on the fact that is the only door that won't auto lock/unlock thru the fob or interior switch on the dash. But it also won't unlock by simply pulling the interior door handle...what's up with that...is that normal? The part that is confusing me is that it will LOCK with the fob but not UNLOCK...do actuators fail in only one direction???
Thanks in advance for your help.
If what I have described is not clear, please let me know.
Thanks,
Joe.
Okay...I just called my wife to have her try your suggestion and here are the results.
I had her get into the car and start it up then lock the doors (via the interior dashboard switch). All doors locked.
With the car still running she double pulled the interior handle and the door unlocked and opened.
next I had her relock the door and shut off the car and double pulled the interior handle and it unlocked and opened the door.
Therefore the only symptoms at this point are these.
The door will NOT unlock via the key fob or interior dashboard switch but it WILL lock via those two methods...
Does this sound like an actuator?
The actuator appears to cost about $120 plus tax and the labor appears to be about $150...
I had the door panel off yesterday and it sure looks like a bear to change that thing out with all the cables and wires, etc...
Any thoughts on if you feel it is the actuator or not?
The car has 52,000 miles on it and is about 5 months out of warranty...any thoughts on trying to get Mini to cover it as a 'good will' warranty?
Joe.
I had her get into the car and start it up then lock the doors (via the interior dashboard switch). All doors locked.
With the car still running she double pulled the interior handle and the door unlocked and opened.
next I had her relock the door and shut off the car and double pulled the interior handle and it unlocked and opened the door.
Therefore the only symptoms at this point are these.
The door will NOT unlock via the key fob or interior dashboard switch but it WILL lock via those two methods...
Does this sound like an actuator?
The actuator appears to cost about $120 plus tax and the labor appears to be about $150...
I had the door panel off yesterday and it sure looks like a bear to change that thing out with all the cables and wires, etc...
Any thoughts on if you feel it is the actuator or not?
The car has 52,000 miles on it and is about 5 months out of warranty...any thoughts on trying to get Mini to cover it as a 'good will' warranty?
Joe.
I am not too sure, but the actuator should push and pull the locks. I have a 03 and it did similar thing to my trunk, got the new one and replaced it. Always try the goodwill. Do the doors unlock autatically once the ignition key is turned off?
The actuator has 2 motors in it the unlock one has gone bad. See this thread for the how to- Its not as bad as you think about a hour to replace it. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-problems.html
Thanks for the info.
That thread that 03BRG linked to is the one that convinced me to NOT try it myself LOL...
I'm actually a very handy person...but I had the door panel off on Sunday and I have no freaking idea how I would get my hands in there to do the work!
I called my local body shop and he can do it for $220 total parts, labor, tax TOTAL JOB...
I'm still working with Mini to see of they will do a good will...but if not...$220 isn't too too bad.
The body shop says they use fiber cameras and such...which I can believe. All the blind mates for cables and such has me a tad bit nervous...
I've already replaced the brakes on the Mini and have completely unbolted the rear axle on my Excursion for suspension upgrades as well as replaced shocks/etc...so I'm not afraid to tackle things...the confined space of this door cavity though has me some what nervous is all...so for ~$90 over the price of the part...I just made a cost benefit analysis and decided the $90 was worth it!
Thanks again for the feedback...I truly appreciate it!
Joe.
That thread that 03BRG linked to is the one that convinced me to NOT try it myself LOL...
I'm actually a very handy person...but I had the door panel off on Sunday and I have no freaking idea how I would get my hands in there to do the work!
I called my local body shop and he can do it for $220 total parts, labor, tax TOTAL JOB...
I'm still working with Mini to see of they will do a good will...but if not...$220 isn't too too bad.
The body shop says they use fiber cameras and such...which I can believe. All the blind mates for cables and such has me a tad bit nervous...
I've already replaced the brakes on the Mini and have completely unbolted the rear axle on my Excursion for suspension upgrades as well as replaced shocks/etc...so I'm not afraid to tackle things...the confined space of this door cavity though has me some what nervous is all...so for ~$90 over the price of the part...I just made a cost benefit analysis and decided the $90 was worth it!
Thanks again for the feedback...I truly appreciate it!
Joe.
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