I have a serious problem.
#26
Lawmann is right. Read this link http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_...e/1272436.html
BMW MINI uses BLUE for a reason and not running BLUE, yes it costs more then many others, but what you or the last person thought they were saving could cost you big time.
I'd get it to a indy BMW Shop ASAP and have the WHOLE system inspected and change whatever needs to be changed and then get the BLUE stuff in there and make sure they get all the air out of the system too.
PS, don't let that MINI overheat. If you see the temp gauge climb up to 75% pull off the road where you are, turn the car off, open the hood and call a flatbed. Over heating it will cost you much more then a tow.
BMW MINI uses BLUE for a reason and not running BLUE, yes it costs more then many others, but what you or the last person thought they were saving could cost you big time.
I'd get it to a indy BMW Shop ASAP and have the WHOLE system inspected and change whatever needs to be changed and then get the BLUE stuff in there and make sure they get all the air out of the system too.
PS, don't let that MINI overheat. If you see the temp gauge climb up to 75% pull off the road where you are, turn the car off, open the hood and call a flatbed. Over heating it will cost you much more then a tow.
#27
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This is the text important to the issue for MINI owners;
The bad news is that it doesn't come down to color matching. Isn't all antifreeze compatible? Sorry, but it isn't. There are a few cases where you can get a fast case of corrosion, some where the water pump can be both eroded and corroded to an early death, and a lot of cases where you can shorten the effective life of the antifreeze. Antifreeze itself (most commonly a chemical called ethylene glycol) doesn't wear out–ever–but the key ingredients are the rust and corrosion inhibitors, and they get used up. The most common inh ibitors, silicates for aluminum protection, are used up faster than others. That's why some new cars (all General Motors, Mercury Cougar, VW/Audi models) have red or orange antifreeze with a new class of inhibitors, called organic acids. Examples of U.S. brands with these organic acids: Havoline Dex-Cool and Prestone Extended Life, both recommended for five years or 150,000 miles. That's the good news.
MINI's use BLUE. A BMW, MINI, or Rover shop will have it on hand or a really good parts store. Not running Blue will eat coolant parts in short order.
The bad news is that it doesn't come down to color matching. Isn't all antifreeze compatible? Sorry, but it isn't. There are a few cases where you can get a fast case of corrosion, some where the water pump can be both eroded and corroded to an early death, and a lot of cases where you can shorten the effective life of the antifreeze. Antifreeze itself (most commonly a chemical called ethylene glycol) doesn't wear out–ever–but the key ingredients are the rust and corrosion inhibitors, and they get used up. The most common inh ibitors, silicates for aluminum protection, are used up faster than others. That's why some new cars (all General Motors, Mercury Cougar, VW/Audi models) have red or orange antifreeze with a new class of inhibitors, called organic acids. Examples of U.S. brands with these organic acids: Havoline Dex-Cool and Prestone Extended Life, both recommended for five years or 150,000 miles. That's the good news.
MINI's use BLUE. A BMW, MINI, or Rover shop will have it on hand or a really good parts store. Not running Blue will eat coolant parts in short order.
#28
In the US, our MINIs come with blue antifreeze. It is what BMW/MINI uses.
As I said earlier, look at the color of the fluid in your coolant overflow tank. It is the white/clear plastic container at the back of engine compartment near the windshield, in the center. The fluid inside is your antifreeze, and if the color matches your leak, it might be it. If the fluid inside is blue, your leak is something else.
As I said earlier, look at the color of the fluid in your coolant overflow tank. It is the white/clear plastic container at the back of engine compartment near the windshield, in the center. The fluid inside is your antifreeze, and if the color matches your leak, it might be it. If the fluid inside is blue, your leak is something else.
#30
Thanks AutoXCooper for the explaination of the coolants! Good to know info.
Now that you've found out the coolant is blue, we need to find out the source of that leak!
#31
True, the cooling system will pressurize while the engine is running, the overflow tank's job is to collect the antifreeze overflow. You should never see it on the garage floor; the MINI (and nearly all new cars) have a sealed cooling system, it should not purge/overflow on the ground.
Thanks AutoXCooper for the explaination of the coolants! Good to know info.
Fatandre, get that coolant changed out and have the shop locate that leak in the process if you cannot find it. You will save some $$$ if you can find it and have them change out the defective/leaking part before they purge/refill your cooling system.
Thanks AutoXCooper for the explaination of the coolants! Good to know info.
Fatandre, get that coolant changed out and have the shop locate that leak in the process if you cannot find it. You will save some $$$ if you can find it and have them change out the defective/leaking part before they purge/refill your cooling system.
I just wrote that ,cooling fluid is blue. If its blue it cannt be leaking right? The fluid on the ground is gold
#32
#33
Keep in mind, brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs moisture) and should be flushed every 18-24 months. If this MINI has not ever had the brake/clutch fluid flushed (the brake and clutch share the same master cylinder), it is possible this watery fluid is coming from the callipers or slave cylinder.
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good news that it's Blue in the right tank. Follow Lawmann's post for the brake fluid issue. Also check the line that comes off the brake res and runs down to the clutch slave. It's a cheap part and I've shipped a few to guys that found them cracked and leaking.
Here's some pics to help you find the leak, check part #8 at the res.
Here's some pics to help you find the leak, check part #8 at the res.
#35
#36
Where is the clutch slave cylinder located. Sorry for all the questions, but I am educating myself.
#37
It's easy to tell if that's brake fluid, if you pour a little water on it it will turn white.....
Has it rained or snowed where you are? (I know - Iceland - plenty of rain and snow ther this time of year, but still)
Maybe it's just water running down from someplace where it was trapped in the car that's rusty?
Has it rained or snowed where you are? (I know - Iceland - plenty of rain and snow ther this time of year, but still)
Maybe it's just water running down from someplace where it was trapped in the car that's rusty?
#40
Spread some newspaper on the floor under the car and see where it drips onto. That will narrow the location of the leak. Then you will have a clue where to start looking and approximately where the leak is. New newspaper will allow you to make sure you are finding the most recent leak and not one that has been on the floor previously.
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