Parts Parts Parts needed
#1
Parts Parts Parts needed
I have a 2007 Mini Cooper Convertible. This is my second mini cooper but and didn't have problems with the 04 I had before just traded it in for a convertible. But this car seems to be breaking everytime I turn around. From little things to bigger things and I am getting quite ticked!
- The factory cup holder - the little black part stopper on the bottom broke off. I contacted the dealership and they said I needed to purchase a new one because they do not sell the parts for it. A new one is $96. I found one on ebay for $65 but that seems to be a lot when all i really need is the little black part on the bottom.
- The glove box - my glove box will not open. I have tried to unlock and lock it and it will not open at all. The dealership said they tried but of course couldn't do anything and said I would .....you guessed it.... have to purchase a new one. That is $341.
- Armrest - I have the factory arm rest and the cover that opens - broke off. I didn't bother asking how much because I know they will just say replace the entire thing.
- Shift **** (ball) whatever it is called - the chrome is peeling off of the side so it cuts me when I shift. Those puppies are $100 a piece!
- Cigarette lighter - doesnt work at all!
- radiator support - daughter used car to push hers out of snow and broke the radiator support and the Splash shield on the front passenger side - $1048 to fix!
- Tires - had 4 new tires put on last year (a year and a half after owning the NEW car) and I just got a nail in one tire. The dealership said these tires cannot be repaired - only replaced. Also said the tread is low on all of them and recommended they all be replaced - every year? You have got to be kidding me! They are $240 a piece.
- Warranty - I have $37,000 miles on the car (drive from Minnesota to Florida a few months ago) and didn't realize the warrenty expired at 36,000 miles. It is $102 for a basic oil change and $233 for the standard!
#2
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4. check the market place for a new **** or pick yourself up an aftermarket ****. Whalen Shift Machine is an excellent replacement.
5. have you checked the fuse?
7. get AAA and ditch the runflats, get a better ride without them at half the cost of runflats
8. only your service warranty expired, I believe you can extend that warranty but it's pricy. Picking up the oil and filter and taking it to a local auto shop will cost half the price the dealership asks. cheaper if you do it yourself
5. have you checked the fuse?
7. get AAA and ditch the runflats, get a better ride without them at half the cost of runflats
8. only your service warranty expired, I believe you can extend that warranty but it's pricy. Picking up the oil and filter and taking it to a local auto shop will cost half the price the dealership asks. cheaper if you do it yourself
#4
Many of those items should be covered under warranty, unless they were broken by abuse. I guess that is likely since your daughter doesn't seem to have a very good sense about how to treat a car.
Find part numbers at RealOEM.com and you can buy parts from some NAM vendors such as Classic Auto Campus. Other sources are ECS Tuning, and Pelican Parts.
Find part numbers at RealOEM.com and you can buy parts from some NAM vendors such as Classic Auto Campus. Other sources are ECS Tuning, and Pelican Parts.
#5
#7
here's my opinion which we all know don't mean squat:
The dealer you have is in the back room laughing about the fish he has on the line.....CASH COW!!! sorry . . .
IMHO several of these items are warranty (bumper to bumper isn't it?) and I'd argue for 1,2,4 & 5. #3 is an accessory and so I'm not sure where that falls warranty wize but if it were me I'd argue that one as well
#6 ... well you can't blame MINI but it would have been claimable on your insurance at the risk of a rate change
#8 maintenance versus warranty as others have pointed out. DIY oil change about $40 once you have the right tools (but this car IS a PIA for an oil change) {for my Miata the dealer would change the oil for $35 bucks}
#7 Did you need tires or did the dealer SAY you needed new tires. Do you know the difference? If not, learn .... FAST .... it is costing you money. A runflat can the repaired IF it has not been "run flat". If you run a runflat with no PSI you destroy the sidewall just as you do on a standard tire. Difference is a run flat will survive this MUCH LONGER than a regular tire. A friend of mine ran a runflat with no PSI for THOUSANDS OF MILES .... NOT RECOMMENDED but the tire remained intact. But this is why many places won't touch a runflat repair....they don't know how long it might have been run with no PSI. If you find a simple nail puncture, with no significant PSI loss & and it is not in, or within 1 inch of, the sidewall then it can be repaired. I've repaired 'em myself with this tool and run the repair for more than 10,000 miles
http://www.dynaplug.com/
(some may argue the quality of a plug vs an inside patch ... but 4 me, experience is key and my experience is it works fine)
you either are very hard on tires or the dealer sees - as I said - an easy target. DO NOT BUY TIRES FROM A CAR DEALER
4 what it is worth I have 22,000 and change on the 16" all season run flats on my 07/GEN2 and they look like they have about 1/3 of the tread left.
if you really do need new tires, I too dropped runflats on my GEN1. RF's ARE two times or more expensive than a good sport tire. Do you need the advantages a run flat provides? (drive 50 miles w/out stopping for the flat, sometimes good for mom or the kids) or can you live with the risk of a flat and no spare (fix-a-flat, plug kit and compressor, AAA). I considered where I lived and who the primary driver was b4 I changed. Altho you can mitigate the impacts of a simple flat with various plugs, goops and pumps a shredded tire aka blowout while rare has no fix other than a spare/replacement or a tow. Check tirerack.com for prices b4 you buy anything.
last note - I sold my Whalen shift **** from my GEN1 a little while back for $60 . . . watch E-Bay or local boards (solid chunk of stainless - they don't wear out!). You can also fit a MoMo or many other options. I would NOT pay $100 for the stock one....but like I said, IMO it is a warranty issue first.
The dealer you have is in the back room laughing about the fish he has on the line.....CASH COW!!! sorry . . .
IMHO several of these items are warranty (bumper to bumper isn't it?) and I'd argue for 1,2,4 & 5. #3 is an accessory and so I'm not sure where that falls warranty wize but if it were me I'd argue that one as well
#6 ... well you can't blame MINI but it would have been claimable on your insurance at the risk of a rate change
#8 maintenance versus warranty as others have pointed out. DIY oil change about $40 once you have the right tools (but this car IS a PIA for an oil change) {for my Miata the dealer would change the oil for $35 bucks}
#7 Did you need tires or did the dealer SAY you needed new tires. Do you know the difference? If not, learn .... FAST .... it is costing you money. A runflat can the repaired IF it has not been "run flat". If you run a runflat with no PSI you destroy the sidewall just as you do on a standard tire. Difference is a run flat will survive this MUCH LONGER than a regular tire. A friend of mine ran a runflat with no PSI for THOUSANDS OF MILES .... NOT RECOMMENDED but the tire remained intact. But this is why many places won't touch a runflat repair....they don't know how long it might have been run with no PSI. If you find a simple nail puncture, with no significant PSI loss & and it is not in, or within 1 inch of, the sidewall then it can be repaired. I've repaired 'em myself with this tool and run the repair for more than 10,000 miles
http://www.dynaplug.com/
(some may argue the quality of a plug vs an inside patch ... but 4 me, experience is key and my experience is it works fine)
you either are very hard on tires or the dealer sees - as I said - an easy target. DO NOT BUY TIRES FROM A CAR DEALER
4 what it is worth I have 22,000 and change on the 16" all season run flats on my 07/GEN2 and they look like they have about 1/3 of the tread left.
if you really do need new tires, I too dropped runflats on my GEN1. RF's ARE two times or more expensive than a good sport tire. Do you need the advantages a run flat provides? (drive 50 miles w/out stopping for the flat, sometimes good for mom or the kids) or can you live with the risk of a flat and no spare (fix-a-flat, plug kit and compressor, AAA). I considered where I lived and who the primary driver was b4 I changed. Altho you can mitigate the impacts of a simple flat with various plugs, goops and pumps a shredded tire aka blowout while rare has no fix other than a spare/replacement or a tow. Check tirerack.com for prices b4 you buy anything.
last note - I sold my Whalen shift **** from my GEN1 a little while back for $60 . . . watch E-Bay or local boards (solid chunk of stainless - they don't wear out!). You can also fit a MoMo or many other options. I would NOT pay $100 for the stock one....but like I said, IMO it is a warranty issue first.
Last edited by Capt_bj; 12-02-2009 at 03:26 PM.
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