http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-04...item483b985834

Can anyone tell me if this is what needs to be ordered in order to fix my low speed fan issue? I would like to order it this week

 

Item no longer listed, for some reason.

 

hers's another one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-04...item19be5a3963

 

as you don't state your model its impossible to say.........................

advert says fits :-

[SIZE=2]Brand NEW fitting the following years and models:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]2003 [/SIZE][SIZE=3]Mini Cooper ( From Production Date 3/03)
[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 Mini Cooper[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]2007 2008 Mini Cooper Convertible [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]2004 2005 2006 2007 2008[/SIZE] [SIZE=3]Mini Cooper S[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]2003 [/SIZE][SIZE=3]Mini Cooper S ( From Production Date 3/03)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=3]2007 2008[/SIZE] [SIZE=3]Mini Cooper S Convertible[/SIZE]

 

2005 Cooper S

 

Yes is the right one, but if you follow the tips on this thread you can just replace the resistor, instead of stripping down the whole front of your car to replace the fan.

 

Trust me, I am not even close to being qualified to do the repair. Wish I could

 

Where do you live? That's what friends are for.

Rich

 

Any chance someone who has done the resistor replacement without taking out the fan could write up a step by step approach to this. I have read this post from start to finish a few time. I have studied Chris's pictures and I still don't get it. How do you go around the burnt out resistor without taking it out? I can see connecting it from the plug but what to you do for the other side. Doesn't that have to go to the fan, where you can't reach?

 

I live in Falls Church VA (crosses fingers)

 

I'm in Fairfax.

 

Greetings!

 

I can give you some initial help till one is written, in the wiring loom shown in the pic on the right side of the multi plug in the armoured shielding there are three wires, one black that is the earth you don't touch that, a thick wire and one that is a little thinner, you disconnect or cut the thinner wire , solder the end of the cut wire that heads to the fusbox side of the car to one end of the resistor, then then from the other end of the resistor solder a wire and splice it into the thick wire, test then mount the resistor. onto a metal surface with some thermal paste.

 

I disagree. All that is necessary is to connect the resistor between the two wires - don't 'cut' either one. All of this should be done on the fan side of the wire harness connector.

 

Cris j lamb who invented the fix did it on the other side to the fan and for me it is a much neater installation. also he disconnected the wire... in my mind this also makes sense as the way you are doing it still sends power to the damaged resistor, which is pointless and could possibly cause issues.

 

I would think that cutting wires on the fan side would be better than the fuse box side. If I ever did get around to swapping out the fan, the connector would be factory. Right? Still not sure how this circuit is fully connected. I need to read the schematics a bit more.

I do have the resistor on order, though. Mouser should get them in on Friday.

 

You can disconect the wire from the plug if you dont want to cut it, then it can be put back to stock, this is the link I was given here, or you can use a small thin tube,

http://www.e38.org/breakoutboxesandconenctors.pdf

 

So after going over all of this... With the new style wires (mid 03 and newer) If small red is tided into large red with the new resistor is it back feeding on the large red/ any harm done? If anyone could confirm on the shroud to us that small red ties to the fan motor with large red after going through the resistor then I would would think a back feeding is not a problem. Anyone have a fan shroud wire diagram- I would like to know if the shroud is a fan, 3 wires and a resistor like it has been reported.

 

I have installed the resistor as posted. Now my question is, how do I know when the fan is running at low speed verses high speed? I start the car, the fan is not running. I turn on the air conditioner, the fan is not running for a minute or so then starts. How do I know if that is low speed or high speed? The temp gauge is reading in the middle. It never goes higher than that.

Air conditioner still blows warm air too. :( Even if this did something, it did not do what I was hoping for. Back to the drawing board for the air conditioner.

 

The low speed you have to see if it is moving. When it kicks into high speed, you can hear it loud and clear even with the bonnet closed.

///Rich

 

Per the Bentley manual, and confirmed by my ScanGauge, the fan operates at low speed at 221F, and turns off at 214F. The fan switches to high speed at 234F and remains on high until the coolant temps drops by 7F. Supposedly it also turns on when the AC is on and the AC system pressure reaches 8 bar (114psi)

If the fan turns on shortly after starting the car (w/AC on) that's likely low speed. As Rich said, the high speed makes a good bit of noise. (And it takes my car a while - in cool Santa Cruz - to reach the fan activation speeds while sitting in the driveway.) Your can't tell actual coolant temp by the gauge - it's more like a dummy light.

On a positive note (for you), my new low speed fan doesn't go on with the AC, making me think the issue is the compressor not producing the 114psi required. If your fan is turning on, that says that you've got compression - have you checked/filled the R134a?

 

I've been searching my problem with my fan, it seems that my low speed is the one working. no noisy high speed at all, no "on off on off" only the "silent" speed is working all the time. never heard or noticed my high speed kick in since i got my MCS new. is this also a resistor problem?

 

After making the trip out to MITM and MTTS, my A/C quit.

So, I got to searchin'. Ran across this thread, along with others and decided to order one of these.

The ones that have done this, is it holding up well? Any issues?
Is this more "elements resistive" than a normal exposed wirewound unit?

How bout the folks that used the .47 ohm unit. Any issues with the fan speed and getting enough air-flow to keep the A/C cool?

Also, I think in some of pics that have been posted up, I saw where it was mounted on the trans. diagonal mount (driver's side). What kind of thermal material was used between the resistor and the aluminum mount?
Thanks for the help!

 

This fix cures the low speed fan fail, has yours failed? it does not cure any A/C problems, though it's failing might have caused A/C overheating the first place, .47 ohm works fine, just use the compound for mounting PC CPUs get it from your local electronic/computer parts shop.

 

Just got back from a auto shop. My fan is fine, and probably always was. The compressor is shot. There goes $1500. Guess it will only be hot in Houston for a few more months. Will the fresh air just do me good? My MINI seems to be falling apart. The oil pan leaks, the brakes are grinding, the driver window creaks when it is rolled down, the brakes need to be flushed, the radiator too, and the power steering fan is out.

drozd, are you sure the low fan has anything to do with the air conditioner not working? What I thought was high speed on the fan might just me low speed. I don't know how to verify the difference. Maybe cut the smaller wire and starting the car? See if the fan comes on and when and compare that to before you cut the wire. If there is no difference, then the resistor is bad. If the fan comes on, but much later and much louder, then the resistor is not bad and you just need to fix the cut wire.

Anyone else think of a good way to test the resistor before doing the replacement? I did the replacement and am pretty sure the resistor was not bad in the first place. I am thinking of removing the resistor and putting everything back.