I stand corrected... I will edit my post

 

I just installed Konis last weekend and the bottom bolt was corroded and broke. And I did not use an impact hammer on it. I drilled it out and put a stainless bolt in it's place as on Sunday it would have been impossible to get the knuckle.

For the record I do a lot of work on Apple laptops and in the old days there was never a stripped screw. Now, at least half of them strip when you take them out even with the right size driver which I have. I guess Mini and Apple are saving a bit of cash using substandard fasteners. Unfortunately I think it costs us more in the end.

Rich-Who wishes that the MCS exhaust was stainless as well.

 

I again think the way to go is to pigtail the connectors but to not connect them until the resister fails. The R/C battery connectors are perfect for the job.

Rich

 

Not sure this is the case on the bolts in question but when fastening to or through aluminum, DO NOT use stainless fasteners. If you look at a galvanic chart similar to this one, you'll notice how far apart aluminum is to stainless. Mild steel is a much better choice, and zinc plating (ala grade 8) is the best. The farther apart on the chart, the more galvanic corrosion will happen. Even if you simply have a stainless thru-bolt going through an aluminum plate, there is a good chance they will corrode together and the bolt will never come out in one piece. The higher the temperature, the faster it will happen.

 

In the case of my lower steering knuckle bolt the carrier is steel. So I am feeling better about the stainless bolt there when I do feel for some reason I want to replace the knuckle which is not likely unless it loosens up.

Rich

 

Per the Bentley manual, and confirmed by my ScanGauge, the fan operates at low speed at 221F, and turns off at 214F. The fan switches to high speed at 234F and remains on high until the coolant temps drops by 7F. Supposedly it also turns on when the AC is on and the AC system pressure reaches 8 bar (114psi)

I confirmed today that I have joined the dubious 'fan resistor failure club' (FRFC). The AC didn't cause the fan to turn on, and it didn't kick on high until 234F. Funny enough, living on the coast I had a hard time getting it up to 234F!

Does anyone know if the fan failure would cause the AC to fail? I only noticed the problem because my AC stopped blowing cold. The clutch appears to work, and the system is full (refilled it a while ago, which resulted in cold air once again) but with the AC on the vents give a weezing noise, and no cold air. Any thoughts on whether it's worth replacing the fan and buttoning up to see if the system will kick in if the fan blows? Or am I in for a new compressor?

 

I think it "could" because without the low speed the pressures are higher stressing the system more. But it would take time and would not be in all cases the cause of any failure in the system.

On Artoo when I replaced the fan two weeks ago, the A/C now works better. I had the compressor replaced last year because the clutch was bad. That would have NOTHING to do with the fan. And if your clutch is engaging then, although service mode is a pain, I would replace the fan and see what happens before I went at anything on the A/C system as those parts are priced outrageous.

Rich

 

I am going to go ahead and order a low speed fan, does anyone have a part number or a link to the one I should buy? Will it come with everything needed? My car is running a bit hot and the dealer said this woul need to be replaced. The temp gauge will go past the halfway mark but never into the red, maybe 3/4 of the way up the guage.

 

I thought for sure my resistor needed to be replaced (no low speed fan when the AC is on, AC blows ambient air only)...I even ordered a new fan...however, today i decided to run 12v through my existing fan to verify for sure before I attampt "service mode", and low and be-hold, the fan spun, both high and low wires worked!!!

So now i'm thouroughly confused. I checked all the fuses and relays and they are ok. But I am not getting any power to the fan???

I am at a loss, please help.

 

Did you check the fuse in the engine compartment? Check continuity of the wire from the fuse to the fan? Maybe you've got a faulty temp sensor?
How (where) did you run the 12V through the fan?

 

lonelysuperstar, i had the same problem with my 2003 mcs...i picked up a new aux fan for 95 bucks (including shipping) from ebay...the part # i used was 17101475577....you may want to go here (http://www.allminiparts.com/) and enter in your year/make/part and it will help you with the right part #...hope that helps.

 

Continuity for the fuses was good, but I will check continuity from the fuse to the fan wire(good idea). I ran 12v directly to the fan by removing the connector and running power through the fans connector with a 12v battery i have.

I was thinking temp sensor too, but doesn't the low speed fan automatically come on when the AC is on? Maybe not?

Keep the ideas coming, I'm stumped!

 

My problem solved, simple needed to recharge the r134a. DIY $30, done!

 

Sounds like you lost a lot of Freon. You should check for leaks too.

Rich

 

Check to see if your low speed fan works now. I did the same thing, but the AC was 'unproductive' six months or so later.

 

Update:

I am still happy with my resistor installation documented earlier, mounted to wiring bracket near a/c freon connections. I don't drive a lot, but we have had some good hot days. The air flow hits the resistor here, so it does not appear to stew and climb in temperature indefinitely.

That mount to the cast aluminum engine bracket scares me, mostly because of the effort to drill four straight holes and then tap them freehand. Aluminum loves to seize on taps, and if you bust a tap there, now you have to drill four new holes and start over.

If you are tapping in aluminum, the typical recommended tap fluid is kerosene. However, over many years I have found olive oil is a great tap fluid as well. You will be amazed to see the metal particles disperse off of a tap when you stir it in a cup of olive oil. Non-toxic too!

Tip: check your tap drill size and go a number drill larger. Most tap drill charts are sized for 75% depth of thread, and that is excessive for most general applications, especially this one.

 

You all love your Minis too much you wouldn't worry about drilling into your old Fords

seriously the place where it needs to be drilled it is only a few mm thick you wont break a tap there is like going through butter. Don't mount it too high though, the back of the headlight nearly hits the top part of the mount when the bonnet is closed, you will pinch the wires in the armoured cable.

 

I have been reading this thread for awhile. and not sure if I have the same problem. it's been very hot here. and anytime I shut my mini off the high speed fan is loud for a split second after I shut the key off.

anway. so lets pretend I do have this problem. what does it really hurt? is there any damage or reason why I need to worry about it.. after all the higher speed fan is keeping it cool right? so lets say I dont fix the problem (if I have it) other than the noise. should I fix it?

 

That is not a problem. If the Mini is hot when you shut it off, the fan will run for a while. When it stays on until the battery runs out, that means that your relay is stuck. On the early 2002 and 2003s that is a pain to fix. On later Minis it is easy.

You may not.
If your low speed is out then your Mini will have reduced A/C effectiveness and may run a bit hotter than usual. And the A/C pressures will be a bit higher too that can lead to leaks or worse. But at some point the high kicks in and brings the temp down.

The bottom line for you is that you may not have a problem at all. To tell turn on your A/C and see if the fan is spinning. If it is and not on high, then you are good to go. At least for now.

Rich

 

ive been following and reading this thread for a while now... I do not want to replace the fan assembly, but i cannot find the replacement resistor (non-oem) anywhere... if anyone has a link to the resistor i need, will you please repost. I have looked at the mouser link but they have them on back order... im really trying to get one ordered and sent to me asap..

 

I bought mine here
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=130358553647

He is also out of stock they must of all sold to mini and Rover owners

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-04...item483b985834

Is this what I am looking for to address the low speed fan? Went to the dealer today and while I like the service I am not willing to shell out as much as they want to replace it.

 

I have a 04 R50. The other day the air conditioner was working fine on the way home. 20 minutes later I drive to the store and no air conditioner. It is only blowing ambient air. I read that the low power fan could cause this so I decided to check. Sure enough, the low fan is not working. Running the car in the garage for 10 minutes or so the fan kicks on high then shuts off. The whole time I have the air conditioner on and it is still blowing ambient air. Could it be that I swap out the resistor and the air conditioner start to work again? If so, did anyone put together the resistor kit? From what I have read, it seems to me that there is a five minute fix? Something about wiring the resistor near the plug without removing anything.

I am so confused...

 

Read chris.j.lamb's posts on this thread he shows the fix clearly with pics, If you are not confident with soldering and circuits, then get someone who is to do it, as you can do more damage if done wrong, it will not get your A/C working (though the resistor fail may of been the cause of its failure) but according to posts here a re-gas might well get it going again,

 

i have read in some other places that once you get the low speed fan going again, then possibly just installing new freon into the a/c system could get the compressor going again.

ive read that with the low speed fan out, that the pressure in the a/c system causes it to dry up or evac its self... and apparently the compressor will not click on until refilled.

Of course this is unverified... does anyone here know if this is true or not?