You could certainly try, but I'm not sure how much you would be able to get out. You might have better luck sucking out of the side "fill" hole. Even there, I'm not sure how successful you would be.

If the threads on the transmission pan are stripped, which is sounds like they are, if you could get the bolt out, you might be able to retap the threads and use a slightly bigger plug.

If that doesn't work, you'll have to replace the pan, which looks like it's over $100

Pulling the pan off is a fairly involved, labor-wise, since you have to lower the subframe a little to access some of the bolts on the pan:

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/07/40/85

If you end up pulling the pan, make sure you have a new gasket (the old one gets destroyed when you pull the pan off). While you're in there, you might as well replace the transmission filter too. There's not an official replacement interval, but it can't hurt and you'll already have everything apart for it.

 

Sorry to revive an old thread but it's been very helpful for my 2003 Mini R50!
I did the oil change and replaced whatever was inside the CVT with the Febi oil that I found as one of the recommended ones.
I do have a problem after I reset the gear ratios and did the Clutch adaptation: with each cold start, when I put it in D it's really really bad, engine goes down to 500rpm, the entire car is shaking and almost stops... very violent. It's only when cold. As soon as I drive or I leave the car idle in N for a few minutes everything is OK.
What should I do? I did the Clutch adaptation multiple times without reseting the gear ratios but it feels like it does not retain the settings....
Sometimes I feel an improvement after the 5-6th N-D or N-R shift during the procedure but the next morning is still bad.
What does that 10minute no-disconnect mean? Should I keep the car running for another 10 minutes, or what?
Now I'm thinking about the redline oil hoping it's better, but I really don't know what is going on. The car is only 90K Km = 60 K Miles....

Your help is greatly appreciated!

 

How cold out is it when you get this?

Mine would did this the winter after the dealer changed my fluid (so, the Esso fluid) and the winter I changed the fluid myself with the Redline stuff. I think anything below 40 degrees F or so it would start to get bad. I'm not sure exactly why it happens, but it does seem to be related to the temperature of the CVT fluid. The only workaround I found was to let the car warm up a little.

I don't think putting the redline fluid in will help, since I got the same behavior with both the Esso and Redline in.

One would think that the clutch adaptation would account for the cold temperature of the fluid, but it seems to be off for some reason or another. Maybe it doesn't account for the wear on clutch plates over time?

If you have INPA working with your MINI, you can get the temperature readings of the CVT fluid. When putting the car in D doesn't cause a jolt, see what the temperature of the fluid is vs. when it's completely cold.

 

Thanks for the answer.
You said you used Esso & Redline. I have Febi right now in the transmission.
It's not about the weather but I am concerned with the winter coming.
For the moment, cold car means not started that day but at an ambient temperature of about 72 F!!!
I monitored the fluid temperature and it starts being OK at about 30-35 degrees Celsius. The levelling is done between 30 & 50...

I think it is the fluid since before I changed it it wasn't that bad. When I'm saying bad, it's really bad.
When cold, the car idles a bit at around 1500-1800 rpm and when I shift to D the entire car starts shaking really bad and goes as low as 400-500rpm before it goes up again to 12-1400 rpm!
It feels like there is too much pressure in the torque converter...

I remember you discovered a transmission actuator that you needed to replace. Could it be that I need to replace that one? (a $370 solenoid...)

 

Wow - I didn't realize the ambient temperature was 72 F! Yes, I would agree with you that it seems the fluid is the problem here. I would only get the behavior you've described with the ambient temperatures being quite cold (just around freezing).

If you can, try to get the Esso or Redline fluid and switch it out ASAP. My first choice would be the Esso stuff, since it is the factory fluid, but the Redline fluid did seem to behave very similarly to the Esso, so it is a decent alternate. You'll have to get the Esso from the dealer.

The solenoid I mentioned in other posts was related to my transmission getting stuck in low ratio (i.e. complete failure), and I was getting a code that helped me pinpoint that. I wouldn't worry about it in your case.

 

Well, I cannot get the Esso fluid for less than $55/liter )
I actually started laughing when the dealer told me the price and asked if it's a joke...
I can get the redline for a decent price but if that doesn't work I'm stuck.
Also, I will redo the clutch and gear ratio adjustments after changing the oil. It's a pain just because I need a straight piece of road where nobody bothers me about speed...

So, the way I see it: change the fluid with Redline. If this doesn't work, change the car... :(

 

Wow. Try contacting Classic MINI for the Esso fluid. I'm not sure what their price would be, but their prices have always been excellent on parts I've ordered from them. bmwparts@classicautocampus.com. Jason Kash is the one I've worked with before - 440-585-9950.

I do believe the Redline Non-Slip CVT fluid is a decent fluid and worked well for me, but in your case, you would know for sure whether the fluid is the problem or not after putting in the factory Esso stuff.

When I went from the Esso to Redline, I was hoping it would help the first shift into D after a cold start with cold ambient temperatures, but the behavior ended up being very similar. Shifting was smooth with the Redline.

Yes, definitely re-do all of the adaptations again after you change the fluid. I know what you mean about finding a good location to do it - I used to wait until midnight to go out and reset mine.

 

I still have Esso fluid that I'll sell at my cost ($18/qt or fractions thereof).
I originally bought a 20L drum. You need 4.5 qts. Shipping is about another $20.
=======
Ron

 

Best to get 5 or 6 qts. so you can do the level correction part of the fill accurately.

 

6 qts is what I need. I have to poor in 5qt first, level and if needed use the 6th one.
Ideally, according to instructions you should use liters, not qts.
Unfortunately shipping across the northern border is not that cost effective.

Ron, thanks a lot for the help.

I just ordered the Redline fluid since it seems to be just as good as the Esso one.

 

Best of luck with it - be sure to update on how shifting is with the Redline in.

I looked up a little on the Febi fluid and couldn't see anything that said it's compatible with the MINI's CVT. The application guide on Redline's site does list the Redline Non-Slip CVT fluid as compatible with the MINI CVT though.

 

Well, it is compatible and it has both BMW part numbers on the bottle.
I actually found out about it on this forum.
Anyway, here is the link: http://www.autopartsway.ca/PartDetai.../pagenum1/tabS

 

Well, certainly can't argue with what's printed on the bottle. I got my info. from this sheet which didn't mention the Esso compatibility:

http://www.rusimport.com/ad/Flyer%20...%20English.pdf

Really hope the Redline stuff works out well for you!

 

So... I changed the fluid with RedLine. No luck.
I think the problem is elsewhere, in the ECU.
It just seems the ECU does not retain the clutch adjustment settings...
I also found other threads with my problem - when cold, drop to 500 rpm when shift to D.
Unfortunately it seems that with the RedLine fluid now it does this even with a warm engine not only cold.
Also, I read some software update fixes this behaviour.
I will go to a stealership and see what needs to be done...

 

Man - sorry to hear it didn't fix it. I hope a software update solves it for you.

If you can find an independent BMW shop, they might be able to do the update for cheaper than the stealership...

 

+1 for indy shops.

 

You can go to the Hyundai or KIA center to buy cvt oil. There is a kind of hybrid-cvt car that use the same cvt oil with mini cooper. esso ezl 799A.

 

Just ran across this doc today for a different CVT box:

http://www.evoscan.com/manuals/ColtR...004201-23A.pdf

Here's what it says about the problem:

If the engine stalls when the selector lever is shifted
from "N" to "D" or "R" range while the engine is idling,
the cause is probably a malfunction of the engine
system, damper clutch control solenoid valve, valve
body or torque converter.
PROBABLE CAUSES

• Malfunction of engine system
• Malfunction of damper clutch control solenoid valve
• Malfunction of valve body assembly
• Malfunction of torque converter
• Malfunction of engine-CVT-ECU

The MINI's CVT doesn't have a torque converter, so that's not an option, but others are possibilities...

Have you tried getting a software update yet?

 

Hello again.

I took the car to the stealership, described the problem and said I want all the software updates.
They did update the software and said the vibration is most likely caused by the engine. They even looked inside the cylinders and other than some carbon deposits everything is fine, spark plugs, air filter, etc....
So.... it's not the engine.

I'm considering right now the "clutch control solenoid valve" but I'm not sure.
Most likely I'll first change the oil again with Febi to see if there is any improvement. Things were better with that oil. It vibrates more with redline. Now it even vibrates at a stop light with the oil warmed up... :(

I guess if the Febi oil and another software adaptation don't do anything, most likely it's the clutch solenoid.
Now question: how difficult is it to replace that actuator? I know I have to take the valve body off but the one thing I'm scared of is not removing it but actually taking it apart since usually in a valve body there are multiple springs and *****...

Any other ideas and suggestions?

 

I'm halfway surprised stealership didn't say you may have to replace the entire transmission! That's what they told me I might have to do when I brought it in after the dash displayed "EP." (It ended up being the battery).

Is it vibrating in D now, and not just when shifting to D?

My thought is it's probably not worth your time to change the fluid back - if the software updates didn't help with the Redline fluid in, I doubt it will be much better with the Febi, or even the Esso at that.

The part that failed on mine was the stepper motor, but I only had the dip to 500rpm when the engine was cold in the months preceding the stepper motor dying.

Maybe it's the stepper motor on yours, maybe not. Could be the clutch solenoid, or the clutch plates getting worn. Since no codes are being thrown, it's hard to say. If you take the leap into starting to replace internal parts, this video might be helpful - it shows removal of the valve body without losing all those springs and such:

http://vimeo.com/26829373

Also, this site sells a lot of the internal parts for the CVT. They are the ones who bought my old CVT from me when I had the 6-speed getrag put in.

A few other thoughts:

 

Yup, no error codes at all.
Now it does the 500rpm dip when it's cold and it vibrates more when in D at a stop light even after the oil is warmed up. It's only when in D with the wheels not moving.
Thanks for the video, I knew about it but the guys did not do a second one about the valve body... :(

I did the adaptation procedure multiple times, both steps and also first step only.
I did it so many times I now count perfectly 3 seconds (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi...)

So if yours had actually a faulty stepper motor and I suspect now the clutch actuator, maybe it would be better to get the re-manufactured valve body from those guys to cover both, right?

Either that or ... if the Febi oil gets it to the point where it is fine when warm I might change the car... it should be good enough for a dealer trade-in test-drive...

 

I wouldn't think it would be too hard to replace the solenoids once you have the valve body out, but I have no experience with it, so...who knows what you'd be in for!?

I was thinking the same thing, if you end trying to repair it.

Another good idea, maybe the best, if you're not too attached to the car. I don't think the problem with the CVT is necessarily reliability, but just the fact that no transmission shops know how to work on them, so they just have to replace the whole box, which is very costly.

 

I'm not attached to the car at all but my wife is since it's her car
The problem is there aren't too many similar cars on the market.

I'll do the third oil change first since that's just about $80 and some time on my side, maybe it works...
If not, maybe a new Veloster is on it's way.

 

'Don't know anything about changing the fluid on a Mini CVT, but doing so on a regular basis that's much more frequent than what Mini recommends is an excellent idea. CVT's, by nature of their design, are much harder on fluid than regular automatics. Thus, you reduce the chances of transmission problems and failure by changing much more often. The fluid, regardless of quality, simply degrades faster with a CVT design.

As for the fluid, unless there's a known high end brand like Amsoil, Redline, Mobil, etc. that makes a quality fully synthetic CVT fluid, I'd stick with the factory stuff. (Which is likely synthetic as well.)

 

I know this is an old thread but wanted to pass along my experience with a 2006 Cooper R50 and CVT transmission. Used the Bently manual for everything except for loosening up the frame underneath. I did remove the bumper, crash bar, wheels, driver side wheel splash guard etc. Had a bit of trouble getting two of the transmission pan bolts to come out but they did come out. I used an offset wrench to get them loose and was able to remove them by hand. Once I got all the pan's bolts out I removed the filter. After a little trial and error I was able to remove the pan without causing any damage...it is a tight fit but you can work it out. I had to put the pan back in place before installing the new filter. Again...a bit of a tight fit but got the filter in place with a new magnet and new gasket for the pan. Tightening the pan bolts up was a lot easier after my experience taking them out. Got everything back in place...tightened the drain plug and decided to use the method mentioned earlier by taking the battery box out and let gravity do the work. Got everything back together and ran the transmission through it's paces according to the manual.

After I put the wheels back on we took it for a drive and did not have any issues. Put it back on the ramp to check for leaks...so far so good...but that was only after about 10 miles.

I used a DIY article for putting the Mini up on 4 jack stands...this worked very well. I used a low profile floor jack following the steps in the DIY article. Worked like a charm and the Mini was very stable.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._Your_MINI.htm

Outside of that...it took me just about all day but I did have to go into town twice...once to get a new floor jack and the second time to get the offset wrench that helped me get the bolts off the transmission pan.

I won't change the filter the next go round...I've got 54200 miles and will wait for another 25000 and just change the fluid. Oh...I used the Red Line full synthetic recommended for the Mini. It was not red like most transmission fluid but looked like regular oil...although it did have a very strange smell.

I measured out exactly 4.8 qts according to the Bently manual...

Not a bad day and I feel a lot better knowing I'm running with fresh fluid and a fresh filter.