We had a car come in for some engine work with a really bad rod knock. So after some tear down, we found that the rod bearings on number 2 were gone and all over the pan in very small flakes. So after some quick addition we found it would be better to just replace the engine with a long block.... jump ahead a bit. We are working on some projects and needed the crank from this motor (which is in bad need of repair), so this gave us the reason to take this motor completely apart (and i mean everything) to figure out why or what went wrong. We took the filter out and it was twisted and looks like it had failed (this is why we only us MINI brand oil filters), so combine an oil interval that was way to long (well over 15K), a failed filter that was not even filtering the oil, a bit of heat and bam, the motor was in need to rebuild. The bearings in the photo are the crank bearings, not the rod bearings. The three-sided bearing locates the crank front to back. As you can see it was moving to one side way too much. One side of the bearing had almost no wear; the other side was half gone. Take a look at what we found, but basically this is proof that you need to change your oil no mater what special oil you run…. And oil services are on special right now. * Wink * Wink *

 

What's the mechanism in the engine to prevent crankshaft end-play? Is there some kind of locating nub/button to fix the crankshaft's front-to-rear location? I'm just curious because looking at the three-sided bearings, the end-play was obviously excessive.

 

Them are some ugly bearings there Chad. Some folks think it is just fine to run those extended oil change intervals. What's the harm eh?

Good advice as always Chad.

 

How many miles were on that engine?

 

The three-sided bearing is the adjustment for the crankshaft end play. Thrust bearing is what American cars call it, I'm not sure what Mini calls it. That engine sure suffered a terrible death...

 

That's tasty! Proving once again that often oil changes are cheap insurance.

 

Thanks for the photos Agokart. Oil and filter changes are the shnizzle.

The last 2 pics are another decent reminder not to use the clutch in place of neutral.

Jeremy

 

the three sided bearing is the crank shaft end play! and the car had around 75K, but i think he was 30K between oil changes (but that is just a guess).

 

It looks like that car never had an oil change to begin with.

 

Judging by the color of the bearings, it appears the problem was a lack of oil, not from oil breakdown.

 

Oil = good.

 

110% agree

 

Also looks like the filter was installed improperly, upside down maybe? The twist in it doesn't possible in operation as it just sort of sits in the 'hole'. Almost had to be twisted on installation.

 

Its funny, because I recall the dealers use an oil filter that is narrow in the middle (at least it is when it comes out). Perhaps it happens when you tighten the oil filter housing cap.

 

Huummm...wonder what's up with that. Bought my '05 used used, have changes oil twice. Using non-OEM filters but they look the same coming out as going in (dirt excepted). To me that filter looked either too long or was cocked some way in the housing on installation and got twisted tightening the housing. Either way, don't think that caused to bearing problem.

 

Is it possible that The valve at the bottom of the oil filter housing with the spring stuck?

 

Thanks for the info Chad, now I'm feeling guilty of what could be happening with my motor even though I had my oil changed twice in the past 5 or 6 months through MCM.

So when should I change my oil? Is every 5,000 miles okay? I plan on keeping the Cooper S forever.

 

yes ever 5K is very good. with a new filter and good oil. not castrol.

 

What type of filter was that? I've got both MINI and Mahle (or Mann?) filters on my shelf, and they look identical except for the labeling on the boxes...

I've been using either MINI-branded oil, or German Lubro-Moly oil on my car. So far, so good.

 

I think Mann is actually the group that makes the Mini filter.

 

+OEM MINI filters, Oil... (have you heard, oh never mind) yes good oil!

 

I've been using Castrol Syntec since my prepaid maintenances expired. What's wrong with castrol? Am I just slow and not catching the sarcasm?

 

Castrol Syntec is working for me.

Jeremy

 

it works, but is not the best oils out there. we use Royal Purple here at the shop since it has shown HP on the dyno (up to 5 HP). just with an oil change. also you want to make sure the oil you use is a full synthetic oil.

 

That is some cheap HP Chad. Nothing like 5 HP from changing ones oil. While on the back straight at Mid-Ohio that will be great! When I raced I'd have sold my soul for another 5 HP.

For lots of folks it makes no difference. IMO as long as you are running a high quality full synthetic oil, no matter what the brand & doing timely changes it's all good.