So I'm reading these threads regarding parking brakes, but I still would like to know, is the adjustment for the parking brake tension made at the wheel, or at the Bowden cable at the pedal? And it's just a simple nut that is adjusted?


I know, I know, I may be a simple nut that needs adjustment as well, but that's for another thread.. and a different forum altogether!

2006 Cooper S

 

Adjusted just below the handle inside the boot- just a nut to tighten. On mine, I had to tighten it A LOT (maybe 8-10 full turns for more) to get sufficient slack out to have it start engaging on the second or third click - the specs are that the first click should NOT start it dragging... but some drag on the second click is good, and it should be well engaged by the third or fourth click.

 

Thanck you that is what was looking for
good info...

MC 2

 

this may be a dumb question, but is the e-brake on one wheel or two? It seems like it's only on the drivers rear wheel because when parking on a hill, the e-brake will make the car calk up a little bit on that wheel

 

There are supposed to be two, but if your car is like my car, one is broken and you just have one now. I have had two cables in the garage for almost 2 years...maybe next week...

 

Weird. So both rear wheels are supposed to have them? Is this a common issue? I'm assuming I need to run a new e brake cable to fix it.

 

Mine rusted out right at the rear caliper. Pretty obvious and I think there is a good writeup on it somewhere online. Just look around.

I don't often have to rely on it, so I am just waiting until I have to go near there to do the work. It shouldn't be hard but I have a bad back and the contortions needed for car work just make me postpone until needed. The other broke years ago, not sure why the second is still good, I use it every time I park.

 

Stop and check things out first

Question is: why does one side engage and the other not ... the way the system is built I'd expect a broken cable on one side to mess up both . . At the brake handle you have one cable where the adjustment nut is - this runs towards the rear for a bit and then connects to a plate where two cables attach, one heads off towards each wheel. If one cable was broken I'd expect this plate to twist and neither side to engage.. a BIG pull on the handle would over come this, how far do you pull the e-brake? count the clicks . . .

At each wheel there is a place (two actually) where the cable attaches to the brake assembly. I'd look to see that both sides are arranged the same - maybe one cable is dislodged and altho 'pulling' is not exerting force. (totally confused .. pm me and I can send some pictures) Having found the cable attachment points to the brakes I'd check the tensions brakes on and brakes off - just finger checks

Also look at pad wear - other brake issues COULD be causing uneven pad wear and one side grips and the other (because of more wear) doesn't

 

PM sent

 

I fixed an annoying squeak when I adjusted my brake cable.

The squeak happened when I would let out the clutch, the engine would lug just a bit and the squeak would happen like 3 short burst.

LM

 

I did the cables a couple weeks ago. You just have to remove the first heat shield infront of the gas tank in the exhaust tunnel. The cables have one way fasteners on them so as you push the cable in, the finger tangs on the clip open to prevent the cable from coming out.
These clips go around the cable about 350 degrees with a split in them so they can be put on the cable when made. If you look carefully down on the old cables, you can spin them so the open slit is on top, then use a small screwdriver to pry it open more and force it off the old cable. Once this clip is off, they slide right out and it is very simple. Those clips are really the only hard part.

Also I would recommend tightening the cable a bit more than you should at first. The reason is that now after a couple weeks I feel I should go in and tighten it just a bit more. They must settle in and stretch a tiny bit in the first few weeks and by starting off tighter, it should settle into the correct "third click is snug" setting over time.

 

Hi if you need to pull the bake handle all the way up is it possible to adjust the nut to tighten it or must the cables be replaced thanks mini cooper2004 s