Ugh. I just got back from a local alignment shop and the guy told me that my outer tie rod and left ball joint are shot.. causing too much play in the toes.

Do anyone know where I can find these parts? I have searched and found that the Tie-Rod is an assembly of outer and inner so it is not necessary but I 'm kind of clueless on the left ball joint that is shot. There can't be only one ball joints right?

Also, do anyone of u know how hard it is to replace them with basic tools?
Please share your experiences with you have one!

Thank you very much in advance!

 

There are two ball joints, an inner and outer.


The subframe will need to be lowered to access the LCA and it will allow easier access to the tie rod also.

 

Thanks K-huevo, have any ideas on the part numbers ??

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...98&hg=32&fg=25

I was wondering if #6 on the RealOEM page is the one mechanic told me to buy??

 

You'll need to get more info from the mechanic since there are two.

Chances are the front LCA bushing is bad also.

 

i pulled my car into my garage and inspected under the car i do not see anything NOT normal. everything looks just like the passenger side, which i been told fine!

so i tilt the front driver's wheel and indeed it seems like something is loose and it is easily tiltable - back and forth (just like when you do your bearing check test)
right side is perfectly fine.

the techinician just went under the car with a flashlight for a min and said the left tie-rods and ball bearing is done.. but i look at em for a good 10 mins and can't notice a difference....

man.. i wish some mini experts lived near...

 

found the bad ball joint!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...94&hg=31&fg=10

#10 on that page!

now, just to confirm, tie-rod can be only purchased in a form where inner and outer is both included right?

 

Can a Bad Tie-Rod END cause toe issues?

The tie-rod itself looks fine without any weird things but the tie-rod end seems to be more freely movable than the passenger side (good side)

 

To replace the outer ball joint the subframe will not have to be lowered.

Yes, a worn ball joint on the tie rod will not allow stable toe settings. Before replacing the tie rod end, be sure the nut is tight and movement is not caused by loose fitment; hold the shaft with an Allen and attempt to turn the nut with a wrench.

With the outer ball joint and tie rod end removed, this will be good opportunity to check the control arm bushing’s health.

 

Will do sir! thank you

 

if I need to replace the tie-rod, do I need part 4/5 (the entire assembled), or simply the ball joint 6/7 in this diagram http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...98&hg=32&fg=25?

also if I do remove the outer LCA ball joint and the tie rod, and find the LCA bushing is shot, is there any reason I should wait to install the new LCA ball joint and tie rod until I get the new LCA bushing? I don't want to install the new parts and then possibly damage them installing the LCA bushing later.

 

The tie rod ends are 6 and 7. The whole tie rods themselves are the 4 and 5 assemblies.

You will be OK replacing the ball joint and tie rod end by themselves. Just use some anti seize so you don't destroy them when removing them again to do the bushing.