Sick of paying high shop prices so tried to change oil myself. Had to use breaker bar to get filter housing off and could not get oil drain plug out. Rounded off the bolt...tried to get it off with vise-grips, still no luck. Any suggestions, tools or otherwise to get this drain plug out.

Thanks.

 

It sounds like the dealership impact-gunned your drain plug on [the crappier MINI dealership have this bad habit unfortunately]. I wish I could offer some useful advice other than to bring it back to the dealership and asked why they torqued the plug in so far beyond specification.

If I was in your shoes I might just buy a new oil pan, seal, and drain plug, but that's only because my oil pan seal is weeping a tiny bit over time and I'll need to drop the pan in the future anyway.

You could try using an easy-out with the drain plug after drilling it out; man that would be a mess though. I wish you the best luck!

 

what is the price on a new oil pan? Mine is just about stripped out from oil places using an impact gun. Just wondering if it would be cheaper to just re-thread it.

 

You could use a helicoil kit to rethread the plug, but doing that with the pan still on the car would be tough. If you go through the trouble of dropping the pan or pay for it to be dropped, you might as well get a new pan. Then avoid jiffy lube at all costs, except to drop off waste oil.

 

I had one get stuck a while back. Craftsman makes some good "rounded bolt removers" I tried that but didn't work. Ended up using vise grips tightened w/ another pair of vise grips.

I have also r/r the oil pan, not that bad of a job. No clue on how much they cost.... I was just replacing a "weepy" gasket.

Good luck!

Nik

 

I had the same problem rounding off the oil drain cap. Went to O'reilly Auto and purchased "Bolt-Grip" made by Irwin Industrial Tools. It is a set of five 3/8" sockets that really bites into rounded bolt. Chose the size that fits snug then hammer on. Use a long 3/8" drive breaker bar. Couldn't believe it when it broke loose. Make sure you have a replacement oil drain plug and gasket. Also, be sure you turn the correct way, counterclockwise as your looking at the drain plug. I tried Vise-Grips, pipe wrenches and thought I would need a new pan but the above worked great. Good Luck.

 

Once you get it out the other option is TIMESERT. This is like a helicoil on steroids. While I like and use helicoils I wouldn't use one in this situation.

I used the time sert kit to replace blown out spark plugs in my excursion and they are stronger than new. It will do your oil plug just fine.

http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html

Ric

 

it doesnt sound like the threads in the pan are in need of repair....it just sounds like the drainplug hex is rounded and you cant grap it good enuf to remove....I'd keep working on some ideas to grap the old plug and get it removed,....then hopefully a new plug and gasket are all you need.

Steve

 

Well, I know of someone who was in the same boat as you, he ended up welding a piece of metal onto the stripped drain plug so that he could use it for leverage and turn it.

I suppose you may be able to just drill into the side of the plug head enough to stick something in there to give you the leverage you need to unbolt it.

 

I just went thru this for the third time; I help newbies with their first DIY change and three times have had this problem. I concur that there's most likely nothing wrong with your pan.

I too use the Irwin bolt grip - I found it at Auto-zone. The basic set was $20 and the add on set another $20. You only need the basic set which includes the 1/2 inch.



You want to use the 1/2 inch and hammer it on. With the rounded bolt you are tempted to use a larger size but you'll just round it more....use the 1/2 and hammer it on - but don't go crazy. With the last one I had a breaker bar on it and still ended up using a leg to get enuf umph to get 'er done.... It needs to turn a bit to bite....but if you think it is slipping, give a few more taps down with the hammer. I doubt you'll bottom out.

Here's a rounded plug after using these, next to a good one



The good one is on the right. On a good plug a 1/2 inch wrench or socket fits perfectly; a bit snug. If the 1/2 doesn't fit, figure out why.....don't reach for a larger wrench/socket or the vicegrips.... I keep finding the plugs are already rounded (who else but the dealer?) so the temptation is for a first effort with something larger than the 1/2 and things go rapidly down hill from there.... Too big socket plus it is on WAY too tight....

My suggestion to every DIY .... get a Fumoto valve! Never worry about getting the bung out again.

 

For removing the bolt:

1. Try the bolt grip as listed above
2. Take it somewhere and had them weld a lever or nut onto the bolt

I've never had any luck with slotting a bolt (the bolt grip is stronger) or easyouts.

My plug is also pretty ugly, I should get on on order for the next oil change in 6 months (before I forget!).

 

Do we only need the F-106 valve on our vehicle? I know some cars need an extension...

 

no extension required. That's per their web site and in my experience. I've had one on the 02 for several years now.

note - this recommendation is for first generation MINI ONLY. The GEN2 engine's drain faces down....I wouldn't hang anything below the pan...

 

Also, think about getting the 106N, the one with the nipple extension. Put a piece of plastic tubing on it and there is less mess.

 

i've been in this predicament twice - each time after dealer service.

however i truly do not think Mini Peabody used an air wrench - i just cannot believe it.

the torque spec is 18 lb/ft which is "wrist tight", not even "arm tight". however it's a fine thread with a lot of surface area and seems to freeze up.

both times i took it to the dealer and asked politely for their help, and the most recent incident (less than a month ago) was typical of their attitude. they put the car on their lift immediately (well, within 30 min) and loosened the old plug and fitted a new one, and torqued it, and no charge. great folks.

now i have personally torqued it to by gum 18 lbs and we shall see what happens in a few months when i go to loosen it again.

one of the distinguished service staff at mini Peabody did remind me that when trying to loosen that bolt a judicous tap of a hammer on the top of the plug (JUDICOUS mind you...) can be very helpful. certainly using one of the bolt removers as well illustrated by earlier posts would include applying that type of force to the plug just to install the tool, so that recipe includes the "tap" component.

good luck, and WHAT an aggravation that is i do reckon...

 

Craftsman Impact Driver
Sears item #00947641000
$25
Available from
Sears

Great tool to have for stubborn stuff. It hammers it in and turns at the same time. Used extensively for phillips screws on motorcycle cases. The one I use (I've had for 42 years!) applies 200 ft lbs of torque when I smack it with a hammer.

And as below ..... Use a 13mm 6 point socket ..... never a 12 point!

 

I don't know if you are talking about a 1/2" drive for a socket set, or if you are putting a 1/2" socket (or wrench) on the drain plug - I just want to clarify because the drain plug is actually 13mm. I'm finally over my dealer service mileage limit so I just did my first oil change on my MINI last night. I couldn't apply enough torque with a 13mm box end wrench or 3/8" drive socket. Luckily I have adapters and could use my 1/2" drive torque wrench as a 'breaker bar'. When I put it back on, just made is "wrist tight" as another mentioned.

But I just wanted to clarify - the drain plug is 13mm. If you are using standard tools, you will have extra difficulties....

 

I agree with the Fumoto Valve option. You'll never need to remove a drain plug again. Available at Moss MINI (http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=38633). I installed one when I switched over to Amsoil, I installed one; sure makes oil changes easy, clean, and quick.

 

I'm getting suspicious of the funky seal on the plug. Every other plug I've had used either a copper or fiber crush seal if there was a sep' seal. This one has some sort of pliable plastic or hard rubber.

a - a different material
b - you can't replace the seal, only the entire plug

Does something happen that causes the seal to grab? I dunno....but the frequency of this is wierd. Like you say, why would the dealer so over tighten something that calls for under 20 ft lb?

But I see rounded plugs that "only the dealer has touched"

and have applied more umph to get them out then I need to undo wheel lugs

 

To replace the oil drain plug you can go to an auto parts store and have the counterperson match it. they cost about 3 -4 dollars each. I keep two in the tool kit bag.

 

I just went and checked again...cuz I have a loose bung in the drawer. a 1/2 inch fits an unrounded plug perfectly.


I don't know if the picture conveys, but that's an old Craftsman (before they got cheap) 1 foot long box. The fit is snug, no play (wrench for illustration only....not what I usually use)


A 13mm has slop. That's checked with two good sets of sockets, my shallow and deep....and two sets of box wrenches. I bought the expansion set of the IRWIN extractors to get the 13mm - which was slipping. I pounded on the 1/2 inch and away we went

Too tight and 13mm rounds it .... maybe that's why the dealers are messing 'em up so bad.

I know what it should be - this is what's working.

Like I said...once ya get it off, go Fumoto

 

Also on sale right now for $20. I will be getting one just to have on hand.

 

got one, and an air impact and for that matter a mig welder to tac on a socket or bar.

But I'm not a big fan of smacking the oil pan hard. Taps to get the bolt grabber on are one thing. But a hammer impact, or the air wrench is another. Had it not come off with what I tried??? That's where I was heading next. Another time the owner decided to go to a mechanic and he ground the sides of the bolt, hammered on a grabber AND used an impact.

Sounds like a bit more than 18 ft lbs huh?

 

In the world of tools, the one place where metric and SAE meet, is at 1/2 inch and 13mm. The two are close enough that it makes no difference really.

 

Actually, a 1/2 in is 12.7 mm, this is why the 13 mm has enough slop in it to round off the oil drain plug.

Go with the 1/2 in socket or wrench...then install the Fumoto Valve.