Mini uses paper filters contained in a filter housing. My BMW M Roadster also uses a paper filter in a filter housing, but in a different configuration. I love the filter configuration in the roadster. Its simple, effective, easily reachable, and never had a problem with leaking/sealing, etc.

The firs time I changed the filter in the mini, I had the diy with pictures with me, just to make sure I wasn't forgetting anything or messing something up. I had bought the filter socket and all of that. Things were going decently until I was all done started the car up, backed it off the ramps, got out, then noticed a big pool of oil under the car. I quickly got out my catch cans, "oil dry" and everything else to keep it from damaging the pavement from a few quarts of oil in my driveway. Once I stopped the hemeraging (because hardly any more oil in the car) and had that cleaned up I set out to find the problem.

After trying for about 15 minutes, I figured out that the o-ring had been cut and damaged. I wasn't sure if I had caused it somehow, or if it was just crappy design or fit of components. Luckily I had bought multiple OEM filters (so components and quality should not be an issue) so I had a spare o-ring to use. I struck it up to my fault for not being careful enough, learned my lesson, refilled the car, and went on my way.

Today, I just performed my second oil change on the car. I knew going into it to be careful of the o-ring. I had an easy time draining the oil because of the fomoto valve I installed on the previous change. When it came time to replace the filter it came out just fine, and I was able to lube and seat the filter just fine. As I very carefully started to thread the filter housing back together, I watched and kept feeling around the gland to make sure the o-ring wasn't being damaged. I noticed the o-ring starting to extrude out as I was tightening it. I immediately stopped, removed it, checked for any nicks, checked to make sure it was not pinched or hung up anywhere, then started to thread the housing again. Again the o-ring stated coming out. I checked and repeated. It took 4 TRIES to to get it in while getting the o-ring to seat properly. I turned the car on and hopped out to check, to make sure I could catch it immediately if there was a problem. There wasn't which was good.


This is the part of the story where the author typically says, "I'm not mechanical engineer, but..." and Herein lies the problem. I AM a mechanical engineer. I realize that only buys a little credibility, but then consider the fact that my career is designing components with o-ring glands of various configurations to operate in oil sumps and fluid environments.

I have never had this kind of issue with a seal. The o-ring fit is very poor and I am pretty sure the gland and o-ring are sized improperly. This seal is also very low pressure compared to most seal design criteria. I think the entire filtering configuration for this car was not designed very well.

If I could find a sandwich plate with threaded adapter, I would use a threaded filter with integral seal. If someone could give me the dimensions (I don't feel like going to the pain of taking them), I would have an adapter made so I can avoid this headache at every oil change.

Surely, I can't be the only one?

 

Hooray Jason,

I'm with you. Get that design going and I will be the first on the list. Surley the MINI filter design is one PITA...go for it and keep us advised.

Frank

 

I'm with you! When you get the new filter designed, let me know and I will buy them! Of course, I can't give you any dimensions, to help with your quest. I'm just another sucker who tries till he gets it right!

 

I have not had you trouble but would love a spin on filter.

However, not being an engineer, I wounder if there is a spin on filter that would give the same fluid dynamics as the MINI filter. I can guess it may not be much different but it would be a guess.

I don't think I would risk my motor to an adapter which has not been tested.
Just my $.02.

 

I wonder if your canister base is somehow out of tolerance. I haven't had any issues with mine.
That said, I have a spin on adapter kit made by Cobalt that I got when I purchased a lot of MINI stuff on ebay. As the canister works for me I'd be happy to sell it. In fact it would already be in the marketplace if I had an idea of what it's worth.

 

Other than the design (dimensions and sealing methods) which I am fine with doing, the question to be addressed is what filter to use. That really shouldn't be too hard to pick out. Most cars have the spin on filters and there are lots of options to pick from.

If/when I do this (I am in the middle of relocating now), I will run it on my car first, and probably the car of a friend of mine (a NAM supporting vendor). hmmm......

 

I'm a mechanical engineer too, but that and 65 cents will buy me a can of Coke....

Here's my tips....

Practice fitting the cannister without either filter or O-Ring to get the feel of the proper angle.

Wet the boss in the filter with fresh motor oil and press the filter into the cannister all the way. Use an inspection mirror and take a good look at the oil filter boss on the engine. There is a spring in the boss. The problem you're facing is that the spring tries to tilt the cannister/filter assembly and cause it to crossthread. You must use wrist pressure to overcome this. Using the mirror to look will help show the direction to apply the pressure.

When you start the screwing down, stop and feel all around the O-Ring. If it's cross threaded, you can feel it trying to seat in one place and be away from the housing in the opposite side.

All in all, eventually you'll get the knack of it.

Rawhyde

 

Changed my oil 12 times in the last 4 and 1/2 years and haven't had any problems. Would like a spin-on, would use a Wix or K&N filter then instead of the STP I get at AutoZone. Change mine every 4000 or track event or vacation trip.

 

If converting to a spin on filter, it would be critical to insure that the internal pressure relief valve (if any) and the anti-drainback valve (if any) are compatible with the Mini's system.
The pressure relief valve -basically a bypass- is important in case the filter stops flowing, while the anti-drainback holds oil in the filter for startups.

 

Instead of using engine oil to lube the o-ring, I use a goodly schmear of silicone grease. Never had a problem.

Jim

 

In looking into filter housing covers, I have found 3 different part numbers. I'm not sure yet what the differences are.

11427514988 is up to 07/2004 (R50)
11427563763 is after 07/2004 (for R50) and for all dates of R53 & R52
11427557011 is for all dates for the R56




I saw no valves or sensors in the cover or filter itself. If the dimensions and sealing configurations are duplicated, then there should be no issue. I believe the mini is like my roadster in that the bypass is in the filter housing itself.

 

Schmearing STP works here

 

IMO a very good tip.

I'll be doing that next time. Although I've yet to have any problems it is a fiddly job at best.

 

I totally agree with Crashton, buzzsaw and jimz68, lube on the o-ring and the inside top of the housing along with pre-fitting the filter all the way down first is the key. Slime it up with silicone grease, axle grease, STP, or KY jelly will all work and the o-ring will just slide right in. Grease is much better than just motor oil.

YD

 

And FWIW, I gave up on the OEM filter and now use a NAPA (WIX) filter.
Part #7033
It's a lot easier to press down into the housing, and the o-ring seems to fit better.




Jim

 

That's good to hear, Jim. I picked up a Wix filter a bit ago, but haven't installed one yet.

 

While it's good to know that the Wix filter fits better I have a concern that if there was an oil related problem with the engine warranty coverage could be denied because of that filter. I know about the Magnuson Moss warranty act, but still think this could be a real can of worms of some poor MINI owner.

I pre-fit the OEM filter & have had no problems installing it as long as I remember to do the pre-fit. Once my MINI is out of warranty I'll most likely switch to a Wix myself.

 

Sounds like a mixed bag of nuts. Some people have no issue at all, and some seem to share the frustration.

I would like to think its just me and my approach to installing the filter, but I'm sure thats not it, and I was more than careful in installing the filter cover. You shouldn't have to have lots of practice and learn techniques for threading on a cover. Imagine what would happen if someone went to el cheapo oil change down the street?

 

Installing the filter does take practice. I've never had a problem with tearing the o-ring, but I usually go through a few "attempts" to get the housing to thread on straight. There is an off-center spring which kinda wants to **** it to one side. As soon as I think I have it started, I use an inspection mirror to make sure everythign is even all the way around before tightening it down.

And no, I would never take a MINI to a quick-lube place.

 

Changed oil yesterday, always use grease on the O ring never any problem.

 

The canister is a PITA, but I'd suggest leaving well enough alone rather than trying to re-invent the wheel. Work on your canister spinning technique instead.

Normally I wouldn't give a hoot, but there is a good reason for the paper insert filters. Less Waste. Every time you change a spin-on filter you throw away a good bit of steel. Not so with the paper element. Also, with the paper element there's (presumably) less resources and energy used in producing the filter.

Just my humble opinion.

 

The EPA said that if I try to change the oil on either my Cooper or my Toyota they will place a dome around me to prevent the hazard from spreading

 

I understand, and there is no garuntee I will make my own contraption to aleviate my frustration, but a driveway full of 4 quarts of oil isn't exactly environmentally friendly either.

 

I've also used the Wix/NAPA filters with great success. They have a more robust construction than the OEM filters and dont 'fight' the canister and standpipe while trying to thread the canister back on.

I always smear a small amount of grease on the o-ring to avoid snagging it and ease the torque needed for reinstalling. I have yet to drip any oil during an oil change. When I fist found out the MINI used a cartridge filter and had it in such a mounting position, I was prepared for a horrendous mess at each change. Done right, by changing the oil warm and allowing about ten minutes for the oil to drain from the canister once the o-ring seal has been broken, there is no dripping and a surprisingly 'dry' element to deal with. Retrofitting an spin-on filter in the same position is guaranteeing a mess when changing.

Several years back someone was insisting on converting in order to be able to use three dollar Fram filters from Wal-Mart.