EML, Check Engine Light - looks like a Christmas tree in here!
EML, Check Engine Light - looks like a Christmas tree in here!
I'm hoping someone can help. Last week, my car started up with and EML light, followed by a check engine. The car went into limp mode a couple of times. I hooked up my ODB II scanner to my car and cleared the check engine light. It reported error - P1498. This indicates a low fan speed issue with the radiator fan OR a low +5volt output on Chrysler motors. The Check Engine light is directly releated to the EML light; and the EML is what is coming on because of the P1498 code. At first, I thought it was from my brakes. But after trial and error (and using the ebrake), I found that the light only comes on when the car comes to a complete stop. I tested this by bring the car to a complete stop without braking (on a hill). I also did a bunch of california rolls through stop signs - never actually bringing the car to a complete hault, and the EML light didn't trip. From reading other threads, I checked for vacuum leaks. I found that the IC was freely moving around because Mini service neglected to re-install 4 bolts that hold down the from of the IC. A quick trip to the hardware store corrected that. Then yesterday, my car decided to start idling funny. Everything was fine with the A/C turned on; It hovered around 800-900 rpm at idle. As soon as I shut off the A/C, the idling jumps up to 1,200 - 1,400rpms (as soon as the fan kicks off). I hooked up my scanner again, now I have a P0507 code (Idle Air control system RPM higher than expected). As soon as the A/C was back on, the idle drops to normal. This morning, I started up the car without the A/C - it seemed to have gone back to normal; however, during my lunch break, it took her for a spin and the idle issue started back up.
Now I'm ready to pull out my hair... any help would be greatly appreciated!
Now I'm ready to pull out my hair... any help would be greatly appreciated!
the reason you car idles low with the ac is because the compressor puts an extra load on the engine when the clutch engages. try removing the IAC and see if there is carbon build up. use carb cleaner or brake cleaner and clean the IAC and throttle. if that doesn't help than you may need to replace it. also while its running and idling high try wiggling the wiring harness because it could be bad wires. hope this helps.
Thanks for the tip. I actually cleaned the IC 2 weeks ago. When I popped the bonnet today after work, I noticed an abnormal amount of carbon (or some sort of black crap) on the IC towards only one corner of it. I would normally ignore someting like this and just chalk it up to being dirty, however, being that I had just cleaned it; I took a closer look. As I looked closer, the IC sucked the cherry out of my cigarette.
So, it looks as though there is a nice little break in the welding from one of the center veins where it connect to the side if the IC. So, on my way home, I picked up some J&B weld, a wire brush, and a couple bottles of brake cleaner. I'll be working on patching the IC up tomorrow and let you all know how it turns out. I guess at this point, if anyone has a nice new M7 or Alta IC, maybe you can part with your old OEM one.
So, it looks as though there is a nice little break in the welding from one of the center veins where it connect to the side if the IC. So, on my way home, I picked up some J&B weld, a wire brush, and a couple bottles of brake cleaner. I'll be working on patching the IC up tomorrow and let you all know how it turns out. I guess at this point, if anyone has a nice new M7 or Alta IC, maybe you can part with your old OEM one.
I yanked off my IC and cleaned it up. Heres what Im looking at. Aside from the two holes, it looks as though theres a break in the weld running a couple inches across. It looks like a manufacturing defect to me, but unfortunately, my warranty is up.
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So here's the fix. I got a spare aerator (sink) screen and cut it to patch the two larger holes in the IC. Then I got some JB weld and filled the holes and crack on both the inside and outside of the IC. I let it sit for 24 hrs and popped it back on the car. Both fault codes cleared and all my idiot lights turned off after the ECU was able to make adjustments to the fuel/air ratio. My idling issue cleared and I suddenly had a lot more power that had long since disapeared. Life is good!
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