Not all group 47 batteries are a direct fit for the 1st gen MC. See post 2 for a summary so far.
If you want to keep the charge during the swap via the lighter plug, you'll need to keep the ignition
at least partially on so that power goes to (and from) the lighter plug.
This would prevent you from having to reset the clock or losing your trip odometer miles or your
dash light brightness setting. This is optional in my book.
Radio settings don't seem to be affected by disconnecting the battery.

 

so if I don't keep "ON" during swap, then I lose only setting U mention, nothing to do with internal computer and other engine setting right?

if it just radio, trip odometer and least imp thing, then I don't need to worry.

Thanks for good info

 

The engine adaptation might be reset if you have the battery off long enough, but if so,
it will re-learn that quickly. If so, driveability might be slightly different for the first 1/2 tank after the reset.
There is some controversy over whether this is true or not. I think it's bullcrap.
You could lose some fault codes in the OBD, so they say to read them before disconnecting.
I've only had to reset the clock and the brightness on the dash, and remember what the trip odometer was before
disconnecting for mileage calculation purposes. The radio doesn't lose its presets or go into safe mode as it does
on some other cars (VW for one).

If you disconnect the battery right before emissions testing, I can imagine
that the obdii might not be "ready" for them to read until it's driven for a bit,
whatever constitutes a full drive cycle, but that's just conjecture on my part.

 

One more thing about disconnecting the battery, you have to re-initialize the
window motor, or it won't drop 1/4 inch on opening the door properly untiil you do.
Just put the windows down, then put them up while holding the switch until
they're fully up for 5 or 10 seconds, then let go of the switch. Done.

Just noticed my door was opening and closing with some difficulty after my
thermostat gasket and housing was changed the other week (this involves
removing the battery tray and ecu to get to it).

 

This really ties it together for me. Just yesterday I noticed that my window was not "dipping" and found the reset cure in another thread.

Your post ties that together with the fact I just changed out my battery.

And a related question/comment. I assumed it best to reset the window while sitting in the car with the door closed. I mean, if you did it with the door open, it would have to "know" that and dip the window after the reset in anticipation of closing. But if you do it with the door closed, it will (should) activate when you pull on the door handle.

Any idea if this is necessary?

 

I believe you should reset it with the door closed.

 

Can anyone confirm the Costco battery will fit a 2005 MCS?

 

What's the brand and model number? Costco.com doesn't list their auto batteries on their site, as far as I could tell.

 

It's a Kirkland Signature Battery. 7yr warranty. It's made by Johnson Controls who also makes Duralast, Interstate, NAPA, and a bunch of others.

 

I can confirm that the NAPA Legend (pn 7547) is a perfect replacement for my cooper.

 

Read all the posts. Then went out and looked at most of the options.
I purchased and installed a INTERSTATE MEGA-TRON PLUS (MTP-47/H5) battery in my 2006 Cooper S. The only tool needed was a 10mm wrench. Fits perfectly. Has the vent tube hole in the exact position needed and the specs on the battery are better than the original battery. Cost $152 with tax and trade-in. This battery also has an 85 month warranty.

 

Thank you, I'll be needing one for my '06 r50 shortly. Good to know

 

Apparently, you didn't real all the posts.
This thread is about batteries fitting the regular MINI Cooper, not the S.
Some fit both, some fit one, but not the other, so I feel compelled to be irritatingly pedantic here again.

 

Dear Cristo, Sorry for my confusion. I was so happy to get a battery that fit with out resorting to modifying brackets I lost my head. I have to complement the customer service people at Interstate battery who knew exactly what I needed and even found me a dealer that stocked the right battery 5 min from my house. Also the ABS and tire sensor lights have stopped going off now that my MC-S has a new power source.

 

No problem.
There's another trhead just for the MCS battery issues.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...s-for-mcs.html

 

Autozone in Parkville, MD had the DLG H-5 battery. $134.

Thank you cristo for starting the thread. And thaks to everyone for posting. It was helpful.

 

Yer Welcome. Glad it helped!

 

My 2nd battery suddenly died, and the shop put in an
Interstate MT-47 Mega Tron II
- it's a little wide for the bracket - it will fit if you have one side of the
bracket pinch the raised edge and ride up about 3/8 inch from fully tightening the bracket.
The cover fits if you do that.


Specs: 590 CCA, 740 CA, 29.6#, 51 Ah, 612 Whr, Reserve 85 minutes at 25 A.
6.88 W x 9.63 L x 7.00 H

 

Hello,

I joined just so I can contribute to this thread since I found it via Google and it helped me out today.

My 2005 Cooper OEM batter went belly-up (maybe I should say belly-out as it was all bulged out - totally gone).

I was originally going for an Optima red top but they don't make one that fits our plain vanilla Coopers.

Anyway, I can confirm that for me and my '05, the Batteries Plus Rayovac RayMax battery (SLI47H5M 12V 47 RAY MAX 3/65 647MF, L2/47-E108) was a direct, no-modification, drop-in replacement. It even had the vent hole in the exact right spot. I set the two batteries side by side and they were identical in all measurements, the only difference being the color (black vs white for OEM) and the nifty handle which made dropping it in a piece of cake.

Purchased on 4-1-2012. No, this is not an April Fools joke. I think the joke was on me for having to buy a new battery.

Hopefully this helps others out like it did me.

 

Now you've found the perfect site for all your Mini needs. Congrats on the car and enjoy.
Actually, the battery is the first thing I had to change when I bought mine back in Aug. 2011.

 

Installed a Autozone Duralast Gold H5 DLC battery in my 2005 Mini Cooper today. Exact fit, no issues. The newest ones have a handle on them (they had two on the shelf, one with and one without a handle). For the ones with the handle, be sure to get the yellow post cover that comes with it, as it contains a plug that you need to insert into the vent hole you won't be using (the one nearest the fire wall).

 

I saw this post (#144 I think) and went out for the same battery. With a ten dollar web coupon we picked it up from the Timonium store in MD for $90. Fits exactly as said above in the boot of our 2005 cooper S convertible.

Thanks for posting!

...............Gary

 

Is the 'S' battery location the same as the non-S in the convertible? I'm guessing the battery in the non-S convertible is under the bonnet like the regular R50s?

This is a non-S thread. The 'S' thread is here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...s-for-mcs.html

Anyway, glad you got some helpful information.

 

Did the hold-down bracket still fit correctly?

 

Great thread! For readers in Canada, I used the suggestions/measurements/pictures here and checked out the batteries available at local Costco, Wallmart, NAPA, PartsSource etc (no Batteries Plus or Autozone up here). Found that the Motomaster Eliminator (Product #10-4785-4, 650CCA/780CA, Group 47/L2/H5, $119.99) from Canadian Tire had the right dimensions and shape so picked one up for my daughter's 2006 Cooper (she'd left the trunk partially open overnight, had to get a jump in the morning, and then found that it was still barely starting a week later). It dropped right in, perfect fit, vent hole in the right place, bracket fit fine. Looks like this battery is readily available here north of the 49th!