Ok I have a 02 MCS and have this intermittant shaking/wobble and it gradually get worse the faster I go but goes away when I am coasting or going down hill (still in gear) I have deteremined its not a wheel issue as I put different wheels and tires on and still same thing. I have a new axle to put on but not sure if theres anything else I can check. Everything is tight and cant shake the wheel when jacked up.

any ideas
Thanks

 

Check the LCAB and the tie rod end for shake.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ll-joints.html

 

I did already change the lower ball joint (first pic) I’ll take a look into the other

 

is there any way to check those LCAB before taking everything apart to inspect if they are cracked in someway I just am stumped cause I dont have the symptoms like kicking the tire in park and it wiggles

 

How many miles on your MINI?

If you're at 125k or higher, they're gone...

 

 

Ya I really don’t have that issue of the wheel moving when kicking
another thing I noticed is that the shift stick shakes when the wobble occurs
I got the axle but off at work so I am attempting to change axle tonight
thanks for the help guys

 

Welcome. Look for the cracking and separation of the rubber on the LCAB.

 

Alright axle replaced nothing changed at all...

so so next I am going to take off completely the engine mount underneath and inspect thoroughly if that has any cracks then I’ll replace that, I also noticed the outer tie rod rubber bushing is torn all around so maybe that’s it but doubt it, will probably replace. I looked the LCAB and can’t really tell they don’t look ripped all around so hope I don’t need to tackle that yet.

so far I’ve checked wheels, outer ball joint replaced, upper engine mount replaced, passenger axle replaced. Same issue :(

also this motor mount of mine is cracked but noticed it’s not on the newer r53 so can I leave it as it doesn’t seem to do much or could that be some of the problem?

 

also just checked out videos on how to install LCAB and the inner ball joint doesnt look to bad I thought the subframe had to be dropped.

Would go with powerflex propably.

I am first going to replace what needs replacing then look into the LCAB and finally a little upgrade with the powerflex...except im going broke and the mini is just sitting for the winter.....

 

will first order this I think I know its cracked on three sides(replacing of upper picture in 2nd last post)
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...3-r50-r53.html

I will also check on lower mount to see how it is then possibly buy this
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...-assembly.html

If those dont fix it then I will go LCAB from powerflex
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...shing-kit.html

does this sound like a solid plan?

 

If any of the tie rod end rubber is torn, it will definitely make the steering wheel shake. They're attached to the steering rack.

Once tie rod ends, outer ball joints, axles, and wheel bearings have been eliminated, then your next bet is the LCAB's and inner ball joints.

 

this may be a good question from ecstuning as I might just order new bushings and tierods and inner ball joints from you guys if I find that the mounts are not the answer...possibility will order wheel bearings too.

SO are there any ball joint brands or tierods to stay away from on your site as I cant afford to get genuine MINI ones

Thanks
going to get powerflex bushings

 

They are fine, I used Febi, lemforder ones in the past. Have 277K on my 05' so I have gone through some suspension parts. Some come with hardware and some dont. So look for that. Hardware included is a plus. If you have any problem, we are always here to help.

 

ok I am going to put some pictures of the parts

The bad ones that I can tell are the:
Endlinks
Top Motor mount (could this be my problem)
Tierod bushings

Now this is the stuff i want to know if I should replace although they look fine
Lower motor mount
inner ball joints
LCAB

Does anyone think that these are worth it or get one or the other or just get a regular top new mount

https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...3-r50-r53.html

https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...-assembly.html

 

Looks like those end links, motor mount on the upper, lower motor mount small bushing, cant really tell on the LCAB, but if they flex easy side to side like the tire kicking video then they need to be done. I would do it all that has not ever been replaced. The tir rods you can feel the play which you move the wheel and look for a slight be a play in that ball joint on the end. you can feel it also on the steering wheel sometimes.

 

Ok I will save the LCAB for last as my wheels are tight.

Can anyone recommend the pre inserted power flex upper and lower mounts from WMW as I feel that be best bang for buck.

i also just found out about the transmission mount under air filter and such so I’m going to check that out

 

The inserted ones linked above in a big suspension thread are good. Get the performance version unless you will track the car, then its the race version. Best for daily driving is the powerflex performance

 

Just my 2 shillings. From your photos, your car has seen better days, and I suspect a lot of suspension parts are not exactly prime. I will not go spend a premium for poly motor mount. I will spread my money on all the essentials. Typically you cannot properly check balljoint with the suspension unloaded. You need to check them in their nominal position. Kicking the tires is actually often quite telling. I would save the money not buying the pre-pressed bushing. Getting the LCA out is your biggest challenge. Once out, removing the bushing is the easy part as you can cut it out with a sawzall.

 

I understand your point I do have limited money to spend. My dad and I are going to drive it tomorrow and see what he thinks and maybe then take it into a local mechanic but I dont think they will tell me anything I already can find here online, as in Central WI no one has a Mini...
He hasnt driven yet but my dad is wondering if its the clutch just starting to go (I was told it had a new clutch put in when I bought it 20,000mi ago) as it shakes when over 50mph but is really bad if say in 6th and floor it going a lower speed (lots of load going through)
I hope that this is not it but who knows it could be anything since suspension is stock and I have no clue what has or hasnt been changed in its 145000mi life.


Also checked the tranny mount on drivers side and looks fine no signs of cracking

 

wish there was a better way to check stuff like wheel bearing and LCAB because when I kick the tire its stiff and when I lift the car cant shake the wheel at all no wobble.

 

I cannot help but to notice two things on your thread. In the title you say Right side wobble/shake. I regard myself to be quite experienced with diagnosing NVR on a car, but I seldom can say where a vibration, shake, or wobble comes from. Generally it is easier to discern front from rear. Left vs right is much more difficult. What led you to think it is on the right side?

Second. Did I read correctly you replace only one of the two axles? Why not both? Usually when one goes, the other one is not far behind.

 

Yes I do believe it is on the front right from the way it shakes you can feel that part of the car,

I did change out only the right driveshaft but the problem did not get worse or better so I believe that the old driveshaft is probably fine so no reason the other should be bad.

tomorrow I’ll give an update for what I find I think I am going to take the brake disk off to better inspect the wheel bearing be sure there’s no movement

 

A bad wheel bearing isn’t going to create wobble or shake. It’s just going to make a ‘groaning’ noise at speed, or while turning.

Wobble is most likely to come from worn tie-rod ends, or bad lower ball joints. From your photos, your at the point where it all should be replaced.

FYI, inner ball joints are easily replaced (without dropping the subframe) by disconnecting the axles from the hub bearings and swinging them upwards to create clearance to remove the forward bolts.

 

+1 ^
A separated steel belt in a tyre can cause the most difficult to find speed-dependent shakes too that most professionals cannot identify. Binding CV joint is another difficult to diagnose one.