I'm getting ready to install my springs onto my DDC equipped F56. I was looking through Cravenspeed's spring install instructions, and see they have a "strut socket" which allows access of a allen key to keep the piston from rotating while removing the top nut. So my question is, with the DDC having an electrical connector inside the top post (lacking the allen key hole) how do you keep the piston from rotating while removing the top nut? I've lifted and lowered a few vehicles, but have always been able to use a couple box end wrenches in the past. It looks like the top plate on the Cooper shrouds the top nut.

Just want to make sure I don't run into any issues once everything is torn apart.

Thank you

Cravenspeed instructions: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...UBsgexn_Uw/pub

 

Anyone?

 

Have you called Cravenspeed? Kellen and his crew have always been willing to answer questions for me.

 

We certainly are willing, but we have not replaced the springs springs on a DDC equipped MINI before, you are in new territory there.

If you are feeling like you don't want to be the first to swap them, we'd be glad to take them back.

-=Kellen

 

I did email Cravenspeed first, I was in contact with Logan. But he stated what Kellen did above.

There are a number of mentions of folks who have the NM springs with DDC and no issues thus far. Since none of them have chimed in, I guess either the right people haven't seen this thread yet, or they dont wrench on their rides.

I'm self employed, and time for me to partake in any of my hobbies these days is limited. I'm planning on doing the Cravenspeed springs, NM rear sway with enlinks and greaseable brackets, JCW brakes and AWE exhaust in one day this Saturday. Take it all apart at once, put it all back together at once. Just looking to limit potential issues. I'll see if Jerry at NM can help me out.

 

Oh I certainly want to keep them! Looking for that "perfect drop"

Maybe I'll even swing by tomorrow and say hi and pick up a Big Pair.

 

Here's the reply I got from Jerry in case anyone else want's to know for future reference:

Yep, the DDC car is a little tricky, but EASY! You do need air tool/wrench to do this… it has the speed and torque to ‘break’ the nut loose quickly without having to hold the strut rod. If you don’t have one then just take the entire assembly to some mechanic shop and have them give a crack at it. $20/6-pack/Starbucks should be fair for compensation for removal and reinstall.

Just remember, when putting the pieces back together make sure to start the nut BY HAND a few turns then hit it with the air wrench after. ALSO ask the installer to reduce the torque to around 40-45lbs. Otherwise threads can get damaged, which then = new DDC struts :(

Hex socket works but try using the proper 12 points to avoid stripping, most shops have them.

Also, don’t forget to regrease the strut mount bearing!

 

This is the socket I used. Don't let the shaft turn!

ECS Part #: ES#2652174

 

Please NO ONE SHOULD TAKE THIS ADVICE.
If the nut binds on the shaft, it will spin it, bye bye DDC.

There are tools made for this.

 

sorry to bring back an old thread. I assume the DDC strut nut is 18mm. is that correct?

 

Im not home to check.
But look at my FAQ about the right tools.
Min the FAQ section.