R50/53 break in oil
#1
#3
If your rebuilder does not have a SPECFIC reccomended oil, I would just use the suggested oil....a higher than normal zinc oil is good (zinc is an extreme pressure addative that protects a surface if the oil film fails....it has been reduced to help catalytic converters last longer)...
Me...I would do a fairly fast oil change....and filter check....ensure all is good.
And be 100% sure the motor is fully oiled before starting....older motors could be spun with a drill, but in this motor, just cranking without the sparkplugs wires connected should be fine (a trivial amount of gas will get mixed with the oil) if you used a good assembly lube.....sure your book/rebuilder has lots of great info.
Me...I would do a fairly fast oil change....and filter check....ensure all is good.
And be 100% sure the motor is fully oiled before starting....older motors could be spun with a drill, but in this motor, just cranking without the sparkplugs wires connected should be fine (a trivial amount of gas will get mixed with the oil) if you used a good assembly lube.....sure your book/rebuilder has lots of great info.
#4
I haven't asked the machine shop that turned the crank what they recommend. I only used oil on the crank and rod bearings mainly because I put together a VW 1600 air cooled engine and read that why put assembly lube that's thick in there. It just makes it harder for the oil to push through. I used break in oil in it,but its a flat tappet engine. I planned on turning the motor over before I install it. I
#5
It seems there there are a million ideas as to what type of break-in oil to use...
I knew a guy who once rebuilt Merlin fighter plane engines for use in race cars....he Liked straight mineral oil...as for most piiston engine rebuiders in aviation (I suspect same with aircooled VW motors too) but with the tolerances bring so tight on a modern liquid cooled engines, and syrnthic oil so good, I have a funny feeling if the motor is assembled right, any oil that meets the engines specs are fine...heck these cars came from the factory with a full synthetic oil....
I knew a guy who once rebuilt Merlin fighter plane engines for use in race cars....he Liked straight mineral oil...as for most piiston engine rebuiders in aviation (I suspect same with aircooled VW motors too) but with the tolerances bring so tight on a modern liquid cooled engines, and syrnthic oil so good, I have a funny feeling if the motor is assembled right, any oil that meets the engines specs are fine...heck these cars came from the factory with a full synthetic oil....
#6
#7
I'm breaking in a newly rebuilt engine as we speak. I used the below. Just add it in, then fill the rest with conv 5w-30.
I've also used Royal Purples break in oil to great success, but that stuff if around $10 a bottle, and you fill your entire engine with it. The lucas below is only $20 and just goes in with your oil.
I've also used Royal Purples break in oil to great success, but that stuff if around $10 a bottle, and you fill your entire engine with it. The lucas below is only $20 and just goes in with your oil.
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#8
#11
I would suggest a half normal interval oil change though, just to be extra cautious that all the break-in metals are flushed.
Last edited by BlwnAway; 11-28-2016 at 07:55 PM.
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